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Hmm something is a bit off. Don't some cars stock dyno at up to 265?
Correct. A stock IS350 typically puts down an average of 265rwhp on a dynojet. Of course, various types of dynos and weather conditions can alter the resulting output. As for gains, the consensus on the forums yield the following expected results for certain mods:
hell yea, from where!! That would b a great mod! I love eliminating rotating mass, it's a big deal and few peeps get that!
I believe there's a company called The Driveshaft Shop that was building custom CF driveshafts for the IS-F and IS350 community but demand was very low so it remains a custom order.
Hell yea it would it's a big part of transfer of power, if u can lite'n the **** out of the drive shafts u will get better acceleration for sure...!
True that a lighter driveshaft will be easier to spin and could improve acceleration slightly. But considering CF isn't exactly cheap (Some wings go for $1000+, a driveshaft is much more complicated) how much will it cost? And has it been tested before? I'd seriously consider this if it isn't ridiculously expensive, adds a lot of impact on the car, and is reliable.
Correct. A stock IS350 typically puts down an average of 265rwhp on a dynojet. Of course, various types of dynos and weather conditions can alter the resulting output. As for gains, the consensus on the forums yield the following expected results for certain mods:
Good to know. Seems like it could be possible to do 300rwhp with just bolt ons and a tune. Based on those numbers though, a full exhaust system with headers alone can free up to 28rwhp. Its unbelievable how much the stock exhaust restrains this engine... Similar case with the TL Type-S too.
True that a lighter driveshaft will be easier to spin and could improve acceleration slightly. But considering CF isn't exactly cheap (Some wings go for $1000+, a driveshaft is much more complicated) how much will it cost? And has it been tested before? I'd seriously consider this if it isn't ridiculously expensive, adds a lot of impact on the car, and is reliable.
1399 for cf shaft, it has been tested it's made by drive shaft shop, that's about a good as it gets for a reputable place! Read from a guy with a gto that he did 13.2 before and 12.9 after shaft , that's Hella worth it to me, especially with us not having much to choose for performance! My cf hood was $800, so 1400 for a good performance mod, I well worth it.. with all the bolt ons, tune and the shaft with DR 12s should b ubtainable..
1399 for cf shaft, it has been tested it's made by drive shaft shop, that's about a good as it gets for a reputable place! Read from a guy with a gto that he did 13.2 before and 12.9 after shaft , that's Hella worth it to me, especially with us not having much to choose for performance! My cf hood was $800, so 1400 for a good performance mod, I well worth it.. with all the bolt ons, tune and the shaft with DR 12s should b ubtainable..
Idk, seems unlikely that the drive shaft would make a 3 tenths difference at the drag strip alone. I've heard of bone stock ls2 Gto's running the 1/4 in high 12's bone stock so maybe it was just driver error or the conditions were better. Or perhaps be didn't have DR's the first time. Not saying it won't make an improvement but it definitely wont be that huge.
1399 for cf shaft, it has been tested it's made by drive shaft shop, that's about a good as it gets for a reputable place! Read from a guy with a gto that he did 13.2 before and 12.9 after shaft , that's Hella worth it to me, especially with us not having much to choose for performance! My cf hood was $800, so 1400 for a good performance mod, I well worth it.. with all the bolt ons, tune and the shaft with DR 12s should b ubtainable..
I'll be honest that was a lot less than what I initially thought it would be. I thought it would exceed $2k to be honest. Regardless I emailed someone there and I'm not sure how much the stock driveshaft weighs, but the CF one weighs about 25 pounds. If someone knows the weight of the stock driveshaft, that could be useful. I honestly think to break 12s you just need a good launch and bolt-ons and a tune even if your tires aren't the best. If the .3 second improvement is actually what you'd get that is absolutely incredible.
Originally Posted by Tro209
Idk, seems unlikely that the drive shaft would make a 3 tenths difference at the drag strip alone. I've heard of bone stock ls2 Gto's running the 1/4 in high 12's bone stock so maybe it was just driver error or the conditions were better. Or perhaps be didn't have DR's the first time. Not saying it won't make an improvement but it definitely wont be that huge.
I'm a bit skeptical about this myself, but who knows how much weight a CF driveshaft would take off. If there is actual proof somewhere a CF driveshaft will actually remove that much time I'd really like to see it. Otherwise, he could have just gotten a better launch that day.
Based on these two threads, breaking into the 12s is feasible with an I/H/E set-up, a low 60' time, and reducing weight such as removing the passenger seat.
Based on these two threads, breaking into the 12s is feasible with an I/H/E set-up, a low 60' time, and reducing weight such as removing the passenger seat.
Wow. I'm very impressed. And its not even like 12.999, the first one ran 12.844 with no PPE headers or tune. I take it if he had both of those he could have even gotten 12.7 or 12.6. I guess tires have a much bigger impact than I initially thought.
The key for the fastest times is COLD temps and a non-heat soaked engine bay. Each time I've gone to my local drag strip, either my first or second pass of the night is my best. A pass in late Nov, like in the link above from caymandive, or in March like my sig below shows that is possible in the best conditions possible.
I am starting to think there has to be something that has an affect on our hp/acceleration that has been overlooked or at least not mentioned in this thread. I have noticed a wide but consistent variation in my 40-60 times that don't seem to be dependent on temperature. On a flat road I will get either 2.2-2.4s, 2.7-2.9 or sometimes as high as 3.4ish. I would get these on the same day, within minutes of each other with no real change in temperatures. My personal best pre headers was 1.9s with cool 60F intake temps. Before that it was 2.2s @70F, however I have several 2.3-2.4s runs in the low 90s. First run with headers was 1.8s @70F which got me all excited thinking they made a difference, however since then ive had many 2.4ish runs. Out of two pulls this morning in the 40s I had 2.4s so there is something else going on. I want to say its the ignition timing jumping around for whatever reason and am thinking fixing the cause of that should bring the average times closer to the fastest times.
Are you able to measure your Knock Correction Learn Value (KCLV) via Techstream? There were a few IS-F folks that were having issues with their power output due to a low KCLV reading. High intake temperatures can have an impact to the KCLV.
Are you're sure you're not spinning off the line at only 40 degrees outside? I know I did a couple weeks ago, but I do have tires that are about worn down to the wear bars.
I can check the kclv, but it has been cool lately and my intake temperatures are almost always within 5F of what the outside temp is unless I sit and idle for a while. As far as spinning goes, that is more of a problem in first, usually im good from 40mph+ which is why i do 40-60 and 60-80 pulls.
The key for the fastest times is COLD temps and a non-heat soaked engine bay. Each time I've gone to my local drag strip, either my first or second pass of the night is my best. A pass in late Nov, like in the link above from caymandive, or in March like my sig below shows that is possible in the best conditions possible.
yes heat soak sux, but I have pretty much took Care of that with a custom Tru cold air intake and I have a carbon fiber hood with a lot of scoops in it!
I'll be honest that was a lot less than what I initially thought it would be. I thought it would exceed $2k to be honest. Regardless I emailed someone there and I'm not sure how much the stock driveshaft weighs, but the CF one weighs about 25 pounds. If someone knows the weight of the stock driveshaft, that could be useful. I honestly think to break 12s you just need a good launch and bolt-ons and a tune even if your tires aren't the best. If the .3 second improvement is actually what you'd get that is absolutely incredible.
I'm a bit skeptical about this myself, but who knows how much weight a CF driveshaft would take off. If there is actual proof somewhere a CF driveshaft will actually remove that much time I'd really like to see it. Otherwise, he could have just gotten a better launch that day.
well wen u replace with a cf Dr u are not only freein up hp from apart of the car that robs u of it plus u lose some weight in the process, I think it's quite possible to loose a couple tenths off ur time. See Taking weight out of ur car from like intrier or smaller wheels jus light the car, no hp gains! But the shafts does both! Seems 1400 isn't a bad buy at all it will changes numbers on a dyno, seats and wheels Wil not! And with having a Lexus wit do u except to pay for any mods.. they are not cheap , so wen all said and doNE 1400 really ain't ****, I mean I spent almost 900 on my hood and it dis nothing for weight or power! My stock hood felt jus as light! So if u want to talk about a waste of money lol prollie the hood.. haha. But it sure does look good
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