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This intake modding is a bit ridiculous in my mind lol but to each his own
You want true HP gains there are known methods to do this ie PPE headers, ricey exhaust systems
I totally agree lol, modding Intake won't gain any HP but will loose HP due to improper air flow also will screw up MAF sensor in a period of time. Yep they either get the whole Intake system and the Whole Exhaust system not JUST MUFFLER, muffler alone won't gain anything. When will people understand the concepts of car performance and mod.
Well if you read through what I have done, I am getting hp gains. There are known ways to make hp that aren't being taken advantage of and that is what I have tried. This was all to test ideas and share the results. These results are that there is a benefit to insulating the air box and whatnot which is cheap and fairly easy. The oem air box is apparently a restriction before the oem intake tube so a metal tube between the throttle body and air box isn't going to do anything. My intake as is wont cause any problems with the maf, its a straight shot through. This setup is fairly simple and has yielded the best results even with higher intake temperatures.
Part two of the intake modding has begun. I thought it would be worth trying to find and eliminate the restrictions in the intake now that I have the extra RPM range from my tune. By the end of the week I should have a larger throttle body to try out, hopefully it works fine without requiring any ecu adjustments. If that goes well I will try comparing the stock setup vs my 3" intake and a 3.5" intake and if there are noticeable gains and interest I might try a 4" intake. I don't have my hopes up for the 4" intake as I believe I should do something with the maf housing by then. I have also acquired a 3d printer so I might try something for a filter housing, maybe attempt a larger maf housing. If anyone has any good ideas I will see what I can do.
Part two of the intake modding has begun. I thought it would be worth trying to find and eliminate the restrictions in the intake now that I have the extra RPM range from my tune. By the end of the week I should have a larger throttle body to try out, hopefully it works fine without requiring any ecu adjustments. If that goes well I will try comparing the stock setup vs my 3" intake and a 3.5" intake and if there are noticeable gains and interest I might try a 4" intake. I don't have my hopes up for the 4" intake as I believe I should do something with the maf housing by then. I have also acquired a 3d printer so I might try something for a filter housing, maybe attempt a larger maf housing. If anyone has any good ideas I will see what I can do.
just a tip for using 3d printer to make intake parts. The printed part is not air tight so you will need to use a sealant/epoxy of some kind to reduce leakage.
Before you go further, find out the max gr/sec. worth of airflow your maf can actually calculate first, so that you don't run the risk of maxing it, and second, if it's possible, figure out if the tune that's on your pcm now will allow for it. Coming from the old school world we just kept adding airflow til our cars stopped getting faster and that was that lol. The old American ecu's were wonderfully simple. Newer Japanese cars not so much lol. I realized this coming from a newer WRX. WOW were those cars NOT tolerant to modifications without an ecu adjustment. I'm guessing these are close to being the same. Also, NEVER yank your maf and insert it in a tube not specifically designed for that maf. If you skew readings too much, and more air comes in than your maf can accurately account for, you know what's happening right? But yea definitely verify if your ecu likes more airflow, as you can either gain nothing because the computer's working around your mods like it was designed for, or you'll start leaning it out. Put a good scan tool on there (if we have them) and look at your short term and long term fuel trims to see what's going on. Though of course you'll have to study the 100% factory values first to get a baseline to compare off of. Monitor knock as well. Always do this on a modern car when you modify stuff like this to physically see where the mod's taking your car.
For the most part, minor intake mods on NA cars are really not going to help anything. 3 horse is common for some of them but what's 3 horse? Is it worth it? Experimenting is definitely cool, but you can save that when you look at the overall set up and realize if it's going to really help.
And lastly, when insulating parts that operate in a high temp environment, you gotta be sure you're not actually insulating the hot air to stay IN the tube, instead of preventing it from getting in. About half the time, not matter what you do you cannot prevent warm air from getting inside. But now, is it stuck there longer because of the insulation? Sure uninsulated tubing lets more warm air in, but it lets it out just as fast. Start measuring the air in the air box with a temporary air temp gauge and record it under all situations. Then get another gauge and put it outside the airbox to see what those temps are. Compare them to the IAT's . Then if you're motivated, stick an iat probe in your intake tube right before the TB to see how much it warms up after the factory iat but before the TB. That way you can see if doing all the mods are even worth it. Remember, MOST CAI's are only doing something at idle. When most cars start to move, they're getting cooler external air from the outside any way you look at it. If mods only save say eight degrees worth of temp differences, is it worth it? Just things to look at when doing experiments.
My question about the carbon filter in our airbox lids... if we don't have 100% vacuum in that area, then we have some exhaust reversion then? Why do no other cars have that?
I couldn't get around to doing proper comparisons due to someone hitting my car, it will probably be another two weeks before I can get any proper numbers. I did get to play with the 3.5" intake and on another day tried the stock setup again and I can say that there are decent gains. Stock intake flowed ~220 g/s by ~7500rpm and my highest with the 3.5" was 239 g/s. Previously with my custom 3" intake my peak g/s would range from 228-234 depending on the day, the 3.5" seems to be a slight improvement over that. I am waiting to get my car back to try out a larger throttle body, I have two to play with.
my kind of thread.. have build and experimented with a few intake setups over the years on previous cars. short ram or shielded short ram tends to fool you on the top end. feels like more if a top end gain than you usually get because you pull warmer air and it kills the torque below the hp curve so the hp curve feels stronger than it actually is.
you would need alot of pressure to create more airflow than the engine can pull on throttle. a pocket of high pressure will only be high pressure when the engines drawing less air than the amount of air pressure, once it draws more than that then poof your high pressure is gone and its back to pulling a vacuum essentially.
THE single best intake setup you can do is a sealed ram air intake with a feed to somewhere in the front that is as unobstructed as possible along with smooth pipework up to the TB. i made a ram air setup albeit with a stock airbox and stock intake elbow on an old 89 325i i had some years ago. i was tuning the ECU and trying to get every last bit of power possible from the current setup at that time. i removed the high beam lamp on that side and ran a 3" feed from the box to the hole and put a velocity stack in flush in the hole with no mesh or anything to obstruct it. i could actually watch my air/fuel ratio get leaner in each gear at full throttle as road speed increased and there was a noticeable different to feel, nevermind having to try and do OBD dyno runs to find out oif there was 1 or 2hp of difference.
just off the top of my head and not knowing what all routing related issues there may be.. id say an ideal setup for the 2is is ditch the airbox, install a sealed filter and run a feed off that down to the lower grill in the bumper, fix a velocity stack to the back of the bimper grill and stick your sealed feed pipe onto that. use the stock grill as a sort of leaf/large debri guard. keeps it subtle looking but also pure function.
btw think yourself lucky.. you guys have off the shelf intakes for the V6. mines the euro 2.2 turbo diesel. there is LITERALLY nothing for this engine intake wise besides a drop in filter and the f sport lower airbox (shares same filter and lower airbox as the V6 models). i fount by chance that the is220d MAF sensor and airbox outlet just happened to be the same type of sensor and in the same diameter of outlet as an airbox i had from my hawk eye WRX a couple years ago. bought a subaru MAF pipe and cobbled together an intake using that, a cone and an is250 intake heat shield on my previous is220d. on my current 220d im running a k&n drop in and the f sport lower airbox mainly to verify whether i get the same diesel particulate filter efficiency fault code as i did with the intake on my last one before i got it remapped, also to check what sort of difference on power/torque there is. the f sport box runs cooler but still retains the extra rush of air the intake gave when the turbo was spooling up giving a larger kick in the butt of torque. i have been and still am looking to replace the stock ribbed rubber turbo to airbox intake pipe on the is220d. i have a weld on MAF bung for a wrx here, just need to find somewhere that can work some magic with alloy pipe and make me up a bend with a longer leg that funnels down from 3 inch to match the turbo inlet.
with the frankenstein intake on my last is220d and a tuning box and a bit of ecu tuning ontop of that we managed to push my last is220d (still on full stock exhaust, intake was literally the only mod bar tuning) we baselined at 300lbft/170hp as close to stock as we could get the car then ran tuning box only which hit 345lbft/192hp and then with a little tweaking ecu wise ontop of the tuning box we pushed it up to 383lbft/231hp. im hoping to push on up towards about 400lbft/250hp on my new is220d with more intake work, profiling inlet of turbo, maybe port compressor housing, smooth all hard pipes so theres no flat edges where boost hose meets hard pipe and some exhaust work. also once my new one has had the ecu tuned and the EGR and DPF disables i can theoretically remove the buttlerfly from the electric TB as its only real function is to create vacuum for the EGR system on a diesel. if the ecu doesnt have a **** fitthen i could net better response and a little extra power at the expense of shakier engine shut offs and a little less of a refined feeling driving sometimes.
Curious to see this larger TB! Will it get its own thread?
I have two! One is a throttle body I sent to maxbore to get machined, the other is a larger throttle body from a truck. Pictures made it look like the bolt pattern might be the same and its close, ill just make an adapter and try it out. The machined throttle body is ~5mm bigger, I was kind of let down with it as there is room for the stock throttle body to be machined up to 75mm. I tried the machined throttle body to see how the car would idle and it did eventually adjust itself and I had no drive ability problems after ~15 minutes of driving around in town. I am not yet sure how the car will respond to the 75mm throttle body.
Throttle body will only help if the intake manifold and/or ports in the head are not a restriction point. If there is a restriction after the TB then a larger TB will not do much itself.
Was on my pc last time i replied here ao np pics but on my phone now so ill attach a couple pics of the intake i came up with for my last is220d.
Hope to have my car back this weekend to mess with my intake. I put together a quick model of an adapter to use the larger throttle body, printed it in abs and sealed it. If it works well ill probably get some proper threaded inserts. It matches the throttle body and starts at 76mm, tapers down to 70mm where it bolts to the manifold. I am not sure how large the opening is on the manifold, if I have to I will make adjustments to the model.
07-17-16, 07:47 AM
