This is a tough question to describe, but I just had my stock clutch replaced (not flywheel) and everything seems fine with the drive, but when trying to shift into either 1st or 2nd, I cannot push the shift level all the way to the left and then up or down into gear. Instead, I have to go maybe 1 inch from the left before I can go up into first or down into second. Before the clutch replacement, I was able to move the shifter all the way to the left and then up or down, but it simply hits a wall unless I move it more toward 3rd/4th.
Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:

I talked to the mechanic about this and he is basically absolving himself of any responsibility since I provided my own clutch disc and pressure plate. His thought was to wait a few days and see if it clears up, but I just don't see that happening.
For what it's worth, I have a 2008 IS250 RWD and just replaced the stock clutch with a SPEC stage 1 clutch, while still using the stock flywheel.
Any thoughts on how I should proceed?
Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:

I talked to the mechanic about this and he is basically absolving himself of any responsibility since I provided my own clutch disc and pressure plate. His thought was to wait a few days and see if it clears up, but I just don't see that happening.
For what it's worth, I have a 2008 IS250 RWD and just replaced the stock clutch with a SPEC stage 1 clutch, while still using the stock flywheel.
Any thoughts on how I should proceed?
Quote:
I'll look into that. I went with the Spec Stage 1 because I got a steal of a deal on it ($387 shipped, no tax). The clutch itself is good, but I feel like it was a problem that was caused during installation.Originally Posted by 20LS01
i would ask him to re-seat the shift linkage first. I would have gone with an OEM clutch
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It sounds like the guide plate (for preventing an unintentional reverse shift without lifting the reverse collar) on top of the shifter assembly is out of adjustment.
Jeff Lange
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What JoeSK said. The reverse shift lockout plate has slotted bolt holes, it sounds like it is not aligned correctly and so you are able to push the shifter too far to the left, past the 1-2 shift slots.
Jeff
Jeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeSK
It sounds like the guide plate (for preventing an unintentional reverse shift without lifting the reverse collar) on top of the shifter assembly is out of adjustment.
Quote:
Jeff
Thanks guys, this actually makes a lot of sense! Now the question is, am I able to access this panel from just under the shift boot or is it more work than that?Originally Posted by Jeff Lange
What JoeSK said. The reverse shift lockout plate has slotted bolt holes, it sounds like it is not aligned correctly and so you are able to push the shifter too far to the left, past the 1-2 shift slots.Jeff
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Correct. By removing the trim panel surrounding the shifter and then unbolting the 4 bolts holding the boot down, you will have access it and be able to make adjustments.
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Yup, it's inside the car, just under the boot, should be pretty easy. 
Jeff

Jeff
Thanks for all of your help! I adjusted that little plate with the 4 bolts and the car shifts like a dream now. Here are some pics for anyone else wanting to know what's down there.
This is what you see immediately under the center console. The rubber boot is held down by that silver plate, which had 4 bolts in it.

Once that plate is removed, you're greeted with another rubber boot that can just be pulled up to see the glory underneath.

After pulling the boot up, you have a smaller, adjustable plate being held down by 4 bolts. This is the plate that needs adjusting. If you look closely at the left side of the shifter, you can see where there is a metal stopper that prevents the shifter from going any more to the left, unless the piece of metal on the actual shifter is raised. This is actually what happens when you pull the shift ring up to go into reverse. My problem was that the shifter was not being stopped in time before passing the 1st/2nd gear location and ended up somewhere between reverse and 1st/2nd.

Lastly, you can see where the mechanic paid no attention and blindly bolted this plate back on. Looking at the bolt on the right, you can notice where the screw used to be. I was able to loosen all of the screws just a little and slide the plate to the right.

Once again, really appreciate your help. I would have hated my car until I sold it if this was not fixed.
This is what you see immediately under the center console. The rubber boot is held down by that silver plate, which had 4 bolts in it.

Once that plate is removed, you're greeted with another rubber boot that can just be pulled up to see the glory underneath.

After pulling the boot up, you have a smaller, adjustable plate being held down by 4 bolts. This is the plate that needs adjusting. If you look closely at the left side of the shifter, you can see where there is a metal stopper that prevents the shifter from going any more to the left, unless the piece of metal on the actual shifter is raised. This is actually what happens when you pull the shift ring up to go into reverse. My problem was that the shifter was not being stopped in time before passing the 1st/2nd gear location and ended up somewhere between reverse and 1st/2nd.

Lastly, you can see where the mechanic paid no attention and blindly bolted this plate back on. Looking at the bolt on the right, you can notice where the screw used to be. I was able to loosen all of the screws just a little and slide the plate to the right.

Once again, really appreciate your help. I would have hated my car until I sold it if this was not fixed.
Jeff Lange
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Glad you got it fixed up.
I would forward a copy of those pictures to the mechanic.
Jeff
I would forward a copy of those pictures to the mechanic.
Jeff
This the very reason why I learned to work on my own cars! Glad you were able to DIY the fix at $0 cost.




