OK - Here is the scoop.
I bought my GS430 brand new on December 2nd. This month I had the car DYNO tested with no mods and got 235 RWHP and 252 RWTorque. I put on the Borla exhaust and Dyno'd the car again. I got no increase, actually less than 1/2 RWHP. I added the SRT intake and ECU and WOW!!!!!!!!!! I had the car DYNO tested and got 262 RWHP and 287 RWTorque, an increase of 27 RWHP and 35 lb-ft or torque.
The car sounds great, like a sports car should and when I step on it WOW, she sounds GRRRRREAT and gets it up in a hurry. Now I have the sporty luxury sedan that I wanted.
P.S. My wife thinks it's sexy - you know what that means!
Lovin' life!

 

LMFAO!!

Watch out for those cops

 

That's a great improvment.

I would of been curious to find out if the Borla's contributed to part of the increased power you now have, if you had instead done the dyno, doing the intake mod first and the exhaust mod second. Usually you need to improve breathing, as well as exhaust to reap the full benefit at both ends.









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Yes I think that you are right. I wanted to do the SRT first, but the exhaust came in first and I just couldn't wait. I think that some of the increase did come from the exhaust, but I am not going to put the stock pipes back on and re-test it. Oh well - need a radar detector now - big time.

 

What were the weather conditions (barometric pressure, temperature, relative humidity) during the dyno tests:

1. stock
2. with borla
3. with borla and srt intake

Was the torque converter locked during all three dyno tests?

 

Not sure of the answers, how much difference could it make?

 

Well I have the same setup and when I had my car dyno'ed at SRT the weather was 90 or so and very humid. Best my car could put out that day was 255 RWHP. Now that I see Marcianof put out 262 RWHP, I would assume the weather was a lot better, hence the almost 10 HP difference. So weather will play a role of sorts when dyno'ing a car.

 

My temperature was about 75 degrees.
For all three Dyno tests.

 

Yes, air temp will definitely play a part in your results. Remember that hot air = power loss, and cool air = power gain.

 

thanks for the info. its always good to see dynos

 

An aftermarket exhaust (non-cat types) will not give you a lot of benefit until you open up the stock intake. With only the aftermarket exhaust, you are allowing more exhaust to flow OUT your system, but so what???, your system is still sucking the same stock amount of air using the stock intake. By getting the aftermarket intake WITH the aftermarket exhaust, you are opening up both ends (more air IN and more exhaust OUT), thus great a real increase in HP. IMHO

 

ambient temp and humidity makes a huge difference in engine performance. How much depends on the engine of course. I know for the Mustang 5.0 engine, bone stock, every 10 degree made about 3-4 HP difference (I read it in a Muscle Mustang & Fast Fords article - they checked on a chasis dyno). But of course, elevation makes the biggest difference.

 

I dont get it

Anyhow congrats. I am looking into puitting in some mods for the engine after the 19's

 

That's all very true and good info!

I feel like I should remind people though that your DYNO print-outs *should* all be in a 'corrected' format. This means, altitude correction, humidity and temperature correction.

Basically, your dyno charts should be apples to apples IF the dyno operator set up their machine properly for elevation/location adjustments. You can get your printout in either non-corrected, or corrected mode, but most should be in 'corrected mode'.

That being said, I don't see 10hp difference between 2 same model cars as being too much, especially with different dyno's.
Different dyno's will give you a different reading almost every time. There can easily be a 3%-5% variance between different Dyno's. In testing, as long as you use the same shop before and after a change, you're good to go.

 

anyway, I think it is impressive!!
My butt dyno tell me I got a lot more power after I put in the SRT and HKS exhaust on my car!