The dry nitrous kit will cost about 500-700. Depends on who you have install it, it can be installed in like two to three hours if you know what you are doing. I would say you are lokking at about 200 max for install. It is really not that hard and if you dont feel comfortable doing it then you should take it to a reputable place. Make sure if someone installs it for you that they have done many nitrous installs before and they have worked well. Because a messed up nitrous install is what will blow your motor.

Extra things to make sure you do:
1 stage colder plugs
1.5 degrees retardation per 75 shot of nitrous oxide
Listen for detonation when you install and make sure you engine does not lean out or that will cause damage to the engine

If you want to run more that a 75 shot, go with a wet system

 

Truly the most positively encouraging news, since the dry system is more affordable than what i had in my pocketbook, I now wondering what's the cost on a wet system and how much horse power I could gain from such upgrade. Jaymode u've been most helpful in laying down actuall numbers and how-to; most appreciated!

sincerely.

 

The cost of the system is very reachable, but you have to also consider the other add-ons that are necessary to run N2O safely.

If you go over a 60 shot, you will need gauges to monitor the engine. A pair of gauges that are minimal is an EGT gauge and Fuel Pressure gauge. Both will tell you a lot about what is going on plus are vital to proper tuning of the entire system. I'm not sure what fuel pump the GS's have from factory (i'm a newbie to Lexus) but if it is not enough to support the N2O, you will also have to upgrade that. As someone else mentioned, you will need colder plugs too. You will also need a gauge for nitrous line pressure, and a bottle heater/blanket.

I'm not telling you this to scare you off N2O at all. You just need to be aware that you can run N2O just like it comes out of the box, but an untuned system is just a big headache waiting to happen. You also need to monitor for changes so you can attempt to avoid/minimize damage should something go wrong.

Just as a broad ballpark, you are realistically looking at around $1000 for a decent setup with gauges. That number will jump up dramatically if you have to pay someone else for the install too, but for $1k you could tune your system to give you up to 100hp on tap easily.

 

100 horses gain,,, nice nice. Will get the other 300 horses after 5 years

Is there anywhere else in SoCal than the XS Engineering I should turn my attention to ??



How's everyone's M.L.K.'s day?

 

thanks to everyone that helped me gain more insight on my question. as for my decision, i'll probably go with the turbo kit as opposed to the nitrous, just mainly because i want to have the increased hp all the time, as opposed to "just on the track." btw, how much does it cost to fill up a standard nitrous tank? also, i heard that with turbo, it actually increases gas mileage if done right, is there any truth to that? i also heard that a bigger intercooler helps get more hp out of the turbo setup. i'm just wondering if these are just more than opinions or if theres actually truth behind it . Thank you again for all the help u guys have given me & others were wondering the same thing .

 

The cooler the air, the more dense it becomes. A larger intercooler will help but if you really want some good power, try water injection/cooling to cool down the air and allow more in. I am not sure about the mileage increase though. If you are running stock injectors, which you should not, and if somehow you dont have to inject more fuel, which wont happen, then it may run with better mileage due to the fact that you make more power at lower rpms thus not having to rev as high and using more gas.

It most likely wont increase fuel mileage.

 

The cost to refill a totally empty bottle (which you will only have once) is about $30 or $3/lb. Some places are more, but that's about the norm.

Intercooler will drop temps and thereby allowing a few more lbs of boost out of the same setup. Kinda like a radiator for your turbo setup. As for increased fuel mileage, I tend to doubt it too. You will have to run bigger injectors, possibly fuel pump, etc...as someone else said, it's doubtful.

 

I am going to be doing a turbo on my 95 SC300 in the near future. I have a certain amount of knowledge on turbo systems, after upgrading the system on my 93 Eagle Talon TSI, which was in the 430 horsepower range, and running 12.0's at 116mph.

I would VERY much suggest the Turbo to the NOS. OR, even both, if you really want to have a trick system. NOS and Turbo's work extremely well togeather, if set up right.

I for one, want continuous, always available power from my added system, and turbo is the way to do it. Plus, one thing not covered so far in this discussion, is the adjustability of the turbo system.. Get a decent electronic boost controller, like the Greddy Profec B, my favorite, and you can push a button to go from 5 psi, for fuel conserving, regular around-town driving, to 20psi, with race-gas, for 400+ horsepower track runs, or the friday night smack-down on the local mustang crowd. There are two *****, and a button, to adjust your low and high boost settings. All from the ****-pit.

One sweet way to set up a NOS/TURBO application, is to have the NOS come on at low rpm's, like at 25 or 35 horsepower levels, to make the turbo spool faster. Then, when your turbo is making 5-10 psi, the NOS turns OFF, leaving the turbo to handle the continuing power needed, withought depleating the bottle, or stressing the engine.

I read a technical document online one time, that showed a turbo as being the easiest on your engine at compairable power output levels to any other means.. Superchargers steal a lot of power to make power, so at 300 HP, your engine load is actually 350'ish. NOS makes very harsh pressure spikes in the combustion chamber, causing a lot of piston, ring, and bearing wear and tear. Building the engine to produce 300+ HP withought any helpers means its ALWAYS under stress, even at idle, causing a shorter life also. But, the Turbo only leaches a very small amount of power by increasing backpressure, and with proper intercooling will give the most reliable power boost available.

My only question is which turbo kit to use, or build my own.

 

thanx a lot turbo man. having all those additional power is like taking an automotive viagra. heck, having a phat ride is a boost to many aspects of our social health, isn't it? ya,,, fur sure i can't wait to see an intercooler throu the front bumper..... my 2000 GS 300 has 57K miles on it, do you think it's gonna last 3-4 years after adding the turbo&NOS?? bc i will still be going to school and i need a reliable daily beater.....

 

Well, the time the engine will last is totally dependant on care, and use.. It could die in 2 years withought turbo or NOS, if you hold the pedal to the floor everywhere you go, don't change oil regularly, etc, etc..

As long as you don't get detination, have proper fuel delivery, again, regular oil changes, and don't try to get the highest possible horsepower out of the engine at every possible moment, then the engine should happily last to 150,000 miles very happily.

My Talon had 118,000 miles on it when I FIRST got it, and started upgrading... I more than doubled the horsepower, on the stock engine, with just bolt-on turbo, fuel, intake, and exhaust upgrades, and it passed emissions, and ran better than stock by far.

The question was raised earlier about it increasing gas milage... IT IS Possible. But its more of a by-product of a more efficient intake and exhaust system, and if you want to get the best out of a turbo system, you will have a larger, free-flowing exhaust. The combo will make your "highway" milage potentially higher. Your in-town milage will likely go down, because you will more likely have your foot in the gass more, and a turbo -boosted car will for sure use more fuel when making higher power.

My Talon got approximately 26 highway miles per gallon pre-turbo upgrade, and as much as 31 mpg after it was in full race-trim.... Bigger fuel injectors, and fuel pump included... It was simply more efficient, as long as I wasn't getting on it.

 

do not do NOS. You will want to hit it way to often. TRUST ME READ MY POSTS, SEE MY CAR!
Get forced induction at low boost. you will need pistons rods... to use the higher boost settings.

If you want to keep the car for a while do an engine swap for a built supra with fordged pistons (set up for turbo).

1st gen? it may be time to buy 2nd gen. w/ nav. maybe a GS400 which will give you the power you want and probably have a 100,000 mile warranty.

 

a twin turbo 2JZ-GTE will not fit in a older GS300, the rear turbo will touch the firewall... hell you'll have to pound the fire wall to make it fit.

i went with single turbo so clearance issues would be less of a headache for the initial install.
as for power the stock internals will support more power than the Auto tranny can take.... i'll be shooting for 600whp with Auto trans on the Dyno
BTW no way you're gonna get better MPG's by addin a restriction in your exaust system
if you do decide to shoot nitrous i got an extra
2JZ-GE motor from my car 80k miles on the ticker i think..


minimal to drop in a 2JZ-GTE to your GS300
-fuel pump
-Standalone engine management (may i recommend the lil green box.. Autronic)
-MOTOR & tranny wiring complete (clip would be best)
-smaller sized intecooler kit
-Small Single turbo kit
-wastegate
-blowoff
-boost controller
-Radiator (maybe)
-trans cooler

cost & result
simple system i estimate 10-15k dependin.. and close to 350-400whp


If you're intrested in doing anything to your car come down to my shop [Endless garage] & dyno facility
670 Ahua St ph (808) 834-1777

 

wow, pimping information....
recently my friend who just opened a shop invited me to be on his sponsor list. let me plug his shop here.. it's momentech motorsports. i'm not sure if i'm gonna spend 3 to 6 G for the rims, body kits and all the cosmetics, considering i'll have to drive the car with much more caution. i mite have to commute to school for the next 3 years.... here's just a teaser, see what you guys' opinions are------> should a lexus gs300 be moded for the "show" or the "go"? (lols, chose, plez dun tell me both )

 

I've always been much more impressed with a vehicle's performance. If you keep the stock body, paint, interior in excellent condition, with maby some nice aftermarket rims, then the show is taken care of, but if you have a car that ran 15's stock, but with mods will run mid 12's, but still have all the convience of stock, then I'm totally blown away by that.

Anyone can buy a body kit and have a body shop stick it on and paint it. Keeping up a high performance vehicle requires much more than that.

Make it go, then make it show as you see fit.

 

ya, there's nothing more satisfying than smoking a car with a sleeper look... but i dun think one can put a set of 20 inch after boosting the gs performance to 300 hp + right? correct me if i'm wrong.. i guess it's doable, but prolly not the best combination rite?