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HELP A340E wont engage!

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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 09:47 PM
  #1  
AMA0627's Avatar
AMA0627
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Default HELP A340E wont engage!

Hey guys, i'm at a point where I don't know what to do. Here is my scenario...

Car:
98GS300

Motor:
Aristo Swap 2JZGTE NONVVTI

Trans:
Aristo A340E
PI 3200

Electronics:
AEM EMS V2


I recently got my car back together, (Pulled my motor and trans to build my motor) and i'm having trouble getting my transmission to engage. I followed the correct procedures when I installed the converter, Filled with fluid, rotated till it sank, yada yada.. (unless i forgot something)

When I start the car and put the selector into gear (any gear) and give it gas, it just free revs. I've revved it all the way up to 4grand while the selector was in gear with NO movement.

I verified that the selector in the car is moving the selector on the transmission. I also put about 7 quarts into the trans and verified on the dipstick (actually a little overfilled).

I tried pulling one of the lines off the trans that goes to the cooler, had my brother put it in gear and rev it up trying to see if the lines would pressurize, no luck there.

The only things that have changed on the transmission are, I replaced the factory Aristo torque converter with the PI, and added a second trans cooler.

A lot of the wiring was bunk(not connected) from the previous owner and numerous wires were not connected. But the trans did work prior to the engine removal. I verified all the wiring to the ECU from the trans is connected, minus the VSS and Kickdown switch. I don't believe either of these would effect the trans going into gear..

I really don't know what to check for, I don't know transmissions very well. I'm leaning towards the Torque Converter being bad, So tomorrow I might drop the trans and replaced the TC with the stock one. I don't know if this can be an electrical issue, maybe I have something wired in wrong, Solenoid or something?? The map i'm using is an AUTO trans map, but I don't know much about the trans tuning portion of the AEM.

Any help will be appreciated and I apologize for the scattered long post.

Thanks in advance,
-Adam
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 07:50 PM
  #2  
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AMA0627
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No fear fellow toyota guru's... I figured it out, incorrectly installed torque converter means broken oil pump and me buying another transmission..

Thanks for the help anyways
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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kdick91
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I was just about to say, that's a toast pump. When seating the TC, rotate and push. You should get THREE positive engagements. THEN, when everything is bolted back together, get a feeler gauge and verify the distance between the flexplate and TC is within factory spec. If it isn't, you must use washers (if too big of a gap) or attempt to reseat it (if too small of a gap). The washers you use must also be machined; not some Lowe's, Home Depot, or whatever washers. Hope you have better luck this time around! If you have any questions, let me know, I have done torque converters before.
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Hey man, thanks. When I seated the TC last time I only felt/heard 2 engagements (So i thought) so this time i'll make sure i get THREE positive engagements... The measuring is new to me, but I have some feeler gauges. Do you remember what the spec. was by chance? Funny thing, when i read the TSRM for the installation instructions all it said was about measuring for runout and what not, I never saw anything like this...

Also, Do you mean use washers on the flex plate bolts that bolt the flex plate and torque converter together?

Thanks for the info, i'm a noob when it comes to transmissions. Luckily i was able to get one for a good price from JeffTsai!



Originally Posted by kdick91
I was just about to say, that's a toast pump. When seating the TC, rotate and push. You should get THREE positive engagements. THEN, when everything is bolted back together, get a feeler gauge and verify the distance between the flexplate and TC is within factory spec. If it isn't, you must use washers (if too big of a gap) or attempt to reseat it (if too small of a gap). The washers you use must also be machined; not some Lowe's, Home Depot, or whatever washers. Hope you have better luck this time around! If you have any questions, let me know, I have done torque converters before.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 03:12 PM
  #5  
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kdick91
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From: TX
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Originally Posted by AMA0627
Hey man, thanks. When I seated the TC last time I only felt/heard 2 engagements (So i thought) so this time i'll make sure i get THREE positive engagements... The measuring is new to me, but I have some feeler gauges. Do you remember what the spec. was by chance? Funny thing, when i read the TSRM for the installation instructions all it said was about measuring for runout and what not, I never saw anything like this...

Also, Do you mean use washers on the flex plate bolts that bolt the flex plate and torque converter together?

Thanks for the info, i'm a noob when it comes to transmissions. Luckily i was able to get one for a good price from JeffTsai!
Well, sometimes it lines up so you won't 'feel' the first engagement, but it happens. I only felt two on my transmission, but I was able to check clearance with a feeler gauge. When seating it, just GENTLY push (probably only about 5-10lbs) and continuously spin it. If you have been spinning it for about 20 seconds with no additional engagements, you SHOULD be good, but no excuse not to check.

Unfortunately, I do not know the factory specs. You will need to find that. You are correct though, the washers (again, machined!) go between the flexplate and torque converter. DO NOT put them in if you do not need them! When you apply throttle, the flexplate will flex and push the torque converter in to the pump and... well, you know how that ends haha.

Jeffs a good, smart guy. Ask him if he knows the factory specs off hand. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 06:17 PM
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found this...
The main thing to check is that you get the converter all the way onto the input shaft, you usually have to spin, rotate, wiggle the converter before it will pop all the way on (it sort of settles on in stages). Once it's pushed on all the way, take a straightedge across the front of the bellhousing and make sure the pads on the converter are ~1/8" away from the straightedge. Then you know you have it all the way on.
Then with some searching I found the distance between TC and flex plate shoul be < .1mm?
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 08:08 AM
  #7  
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StarkoS14
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From: PA
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this thread just motivates me to go manual... good luck!!!
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