Anyone using TRD replacement Thermostat?
I know mods of this type aren't readily apparent, but serve more to keep your engine cooler and better able to produce power when needed as it runs (doesn't add HP).
I'm not sure how efficient (or even what temp) the factory Lexus thermostat is... Not sure if it simply cycles open and closed, or if it meters the water level too.
http://www.toyota-trd.com/en/strt/thrmstut.html
Comments from anyone using one?
Steve Gantz sent me my $$ back and paid for the failed install.Good Luck
You can DIY on this. Just drain the coolant from the radiator drain at the bottom of the radiator. You'll need to drain only 1/2 of a gallon because the thermostat housing is on the top part of the engine. Unless you want to completely flush the cooling system then they're 2 more drain holes on the side of each cylinder bank.
Just remove 3-12 mm nuts from the housing.
Install the new thermostat with new gasket.
On the thermostat itself you will see a little pin(nipple), make sure the pin is straight up.
I mean, I like the idea, but the engine does need to be at a certain temp to operate at prime efficiency / power.
Does a cooler engine temp mean more power? During the summer, yes, I know.
Can anyone shed light on this?
There's 3 major gases that need to be control right now, Hydrocarbons(HC),Carbon Monoxide(CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen(NOx). By lowering the engine temp will reduced the NOx, but will increases the HC and CO. The GS400 is designed for Low Emission Vechicle(LEV) and the 430 for Ultra(ULEV), if I'm not mistaking. The thermostat designed to opened around 180 or little bit more. By open it sooner will effect some of the emission and may be the engine will not reach it normal operating temp. But for our GS and the way we drive, the engine will reach the normal temp or beyond at no time..
Last edited by VVT-i; Oct 29, 2002 at 07:58 PM.
) we would just remove the thermostat entirely to provide maximium cooling flow ( high compression V-8's with lots of camshaft ) but it would take forever to get some heat in the winter!!:eek: Not sure if that's still the case with today's HVAC automotive systems but might be something to be aware of. Lingenfelter won't go below a 160 degree thermostat in his Corvettes because of the operating range parameters of the ECU. The Lexus factory setting is 82 degrees Celsius & should close fully at 40 degrees Celsius ( 104 degrees Fahrenheit ). Emission control mentioned by VVTi is an excellent observation. Don't most of us have the "butt warmer" heated seats??
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The other side to that coin, that I learned while building up my 74 Ford Bronco (they usually had overheating problems) was that guys would install low temp thermos in them, they would open fully, then stay open, so the coolant as always moving so fast, it never had ample opportunity to exchange / loose the stored heat it contained, therefor, the temps would eventually spirial out of control.
Our solution then, was to install new, bigger, more efficinet radiators constructed from aluminum.
Two different worlds here since that 302 heated up like in 2 minutes, but thought I'd offer my spin.
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Always helpful and inciting... Thanks.
Last edited by MrSypher; Nov 11, 2002 at 08:18 PM.
Through past experience (i.e. often flying by the seat of my pants trying anything to gain an extra hp or two), I've found lower temp thermostats can come in conflict with ECU operating parameters. If my memory serves me correct, I had an experience where a "low-temp" thermo came in conflict with an ECU-controlled electronic cooling fan. I know very little about the Lexus ECU cooling system parameters so maybe some of the gurus here can address that issue.
Outside of cold air induction, I've found effective (and safe) modifications with regards to intake charge "cooling" to be:
1. Red Line Water Wetter. Check out the Red Line Products page for technical info. As an engineer, I can attest that the thermodynamic principles and 'claims' made by the manufacturer of this product are sound. I have used (and seen it used) it in both street/race EFI and non-EFI applications but it seems to benefit significantly modified (higher compression, forced induction) early-model vehicles with inefficient cooling systems more than anything else.
2. Phenolic Intake Spacers. Helps to reduce heat transfer from the block and heads (combustion chambers where the heat is generated) to the intake manifold (intake charge pathway). Excellent information with regards to phenolic spacers can be found on the Outlaw Engineering page.
Hope this is informative.
Lee
Lee
Last edited by LexCiting; Nov 14, 2002 at 11:13 AM.
Also think about swapping out your stock cooling fans....
Great info BTW. I wish we could see this data while driving; quite interesting.
Like I said before, if you are stock, or mildly modded, I wouldn't worry about the thermostat, and definitely not aftermarket fans. But, if you are thinking about turbos/Superchargers/NOS then I would definitely think about things to keep my engine & parts cooler, such as oil cooler/tranny cooler/fuel cooler/radiator swap/intercooler/heat shielding/160 degree TRD Thermostat/aftermarket fans/changing to synthetic motor oil, etc. The list can go on, and I maybe getting off the topic....
Last edited by LexCiting; Nov 14, 2002 at 01:14 PM.









