edgy

W55 is orig. IS trans (5 speed manual)

upgrade options are:

W58 - from mark ? Supra or SC300.
V160 from Supra TT,
R154 from...? fill in blank..

"Cheap" options are :
W58 from $500 to $1k dep on who does the work & the cost of a good used trans + do you need clutch etc...?
R154 maybe $800 to $1500 +-

...compared to 4.5-6k+ for V160.

V161 is also a rare option not sure what they are from hard to find..but its been done,...



on another note..
Im a little concerned about that "shifter rod" that should be swapped over from the W55... im not sure my shop knew to do that.

LextacyIs3...
Question..: . what does that rod swap entail... any xtra pats needed? straight swap- PNP? and is it criticallynecessary,.. IE: If you DONT do it it wont shift at all??

I ask because i never read about that particular part of the procedure in prev DIY's and i am pretty sure this was this shops 1st attempet at this swap also,..so they surely wouldnt have known unless he did better research than i did...

I drove the car 1x since the trans swap,.. just limped it home due to a horrible misfire that suddenly got much worse...the tranny shifted, clutch worked.. but something felt funky,..I never got past 3rd but it felt strange..felt some vibration, shifts were super notchy, but I havent done anything else since with it...the car has been sitting as i work out the misfire problem.. the latest step is pulling the current injectors for the new DW's and trying again...

Should be up again soon, just pulled the intake etc off to replace injectors with Deatschwerks and i have the trick MOJO Performance LQ9 COP individual ignition coil set up that i think is going in FINALLy now also...

will post up with new info as i get it back on the road...

PS: I paid $230 for my W58, found it on Craigslist, met the guy 35 min. from my house.. it is supposed to be from an SC300. Had the shop flush it out & refill with Amsoil Synthettic Gear oil and some additive i cant recall which....

lextacyis3

Short answer yes, you need that rod from the w55 transferred to the w58. Other wise it's literally putting a square peg in a round hole.

You should not have vibrations. They are bad and will literally shake the car apart. I would make sure they lined the drive shaft up correctly. They should have marked the drive shaft before they removed it. The two piece driveshafts are balanced and weighted from the factory.

There are a couple w58s by the way. That span over a good amount of years. Older ones are more notchy, you shouldn't feel sloppiness. Mine is very direct. Almost like a gated shifter.

If the vibrations are rev dependent (get worse as you climb in rpms) you have a balance issue somewhere. Generally speaking its not going to be inside the transmission. But you need to fix that ASAP, if your vibration is in the front, clutch/flywheel area you will jeopardize the input shaft bearing. The rear output shaft also has seals and bearings that a incorrectly installed drive shaft will destroy.

The good news is sometimes you can see the original factory paint marking on the drive shaft.


Good luck.