Bad MAF = Throttle Lag?
Older the better.. They don't make them like they used to, now that Danaher bought them a while back. 
Danaher will be doing what they do to every company they purchase, cut expenses/employee's/manufacturing costs/r&d and source what's left of it overseas. Pocket the money and let the company dissolve a long slow death hanging on by it's previous reputation as long as the public will turn a blind eye for.
Danaher is the devil.
Danaher will be doing what they do to every company they purchase, cut expenses/employee's/manufacturing costs/r&d and source what's left of it overseas. Pocket the money and let the company dissolve a long slow death hanging on by it's previous reputation as long as the public will turn a blind eye for.
Danaher is the devil.
Believe me, I know how to search.
I did exactly what the thread told me to do, and the car still feels the same.
It felt great right after I had reconnected the battery, then it went back to how it was before.
It felt great right after I had reconnected the battery, then it went back to how it was before.
Ummm, does the maf get dirty quickly ?
The maf, if its in working order will remain fairly clean all the time.
How about adding the blitz throttle controller... j/k but I think it can fix the throttle lag.
The maf, if its in working order will remain fairly clean all the time.
How about adding the blitz throttle controller... j/k but I think it can fix the throttle lag.
Well guys, I borrowed a multimeter from a buddy and went to work checking resistances. I went ahead and checked the TPS and APP sensor, both within spec. I tried checking the throttle control motor & clutch, both of which showed 0. (Does the car have to be running for this one?)
Also, thanks to GS4_Fiend, I checked the MAF sensor and it only showed .63 ohms at 20k. Is this the culprit?
Also, thanks to GS4_Fiend, I checked the MAF sensor and it only showed .63 ohms at 20k. Is this the culprit?
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Well guys, I borrowed a multimeter from a buddy and went to work checking resistances. I went ahead and checked the TPS and APP sensor, both within spec. I tried checking the throttle control motor & clutch, both of which showed 0. (Does the car have to be running for this one?)
Also, thanks to GS4_Fiend, I checked the MAF sensor and it only showed .63 ohms at 20k. Is this the culprit?
Also, thanks to GS4_Fiend, I checked the MAF sensor and it only showed .63 ohms at 20k. Is this the culprit?
Last edited by GS4_Fiend; Aug 7, 2011 at 03:22 PM.
I'm guessing it was at 140? I honestly don't know since the multimeter I borrowed doesn't show temp. I'm guessing it's 140 since the car had just been running and was at normal operating temperature.
when you cleaned your throttle body and maf did u unhook anything else? or accidentally hit a line or anything might wanna double check just to be sure
I used redline injector cleaner in the past, worked great. It also slightly boosts octane as well.
I think the process is like put in the redline cleaner when you are at 1/4 tank, drive it till nearly empty. Then fill up.
This way you dont have to wait for a whole tank of gas to finish before the redline cleaner reaches the injectors.
When cleaning the throttle body or MAF you can disconnect the battery or you dont have to. But when cleaning the throttle body spray the crc cleaner on a microfiber cloth and whatever you can reach and clean with the cloth will be enough.
Sort of like detailing the interior dash, getting all the cornors and what not.
I think the process is like put in the redline cleaner when you are at 1/4 tank, drive it till nearly empty. Then fill up.
This way you dont have to wait for a whole tank of gas to finish before the redline cleaner reaches the injectors.
When cleaning the throttle body or MAF you can disconnect the battery or you dont have to. But when cleaning the throttle body spray the crc cleaner on a microfiber cloth and whatever you can reach and clean with the cloth will be enough.
Sort of like detailing the interior dash, getting all the cornors and what not.