That crap is weird man, Call Tweak'ed Performance I am sure he will help you out with it.

I was actually looking at those caps when I was helping my friend do the swap, I compared them and they are different..

 

look it up on other forums i know one dude had pics and everything i believe it was silvergs, not sure or may vbieds search those names on club lexus

 

According to the EPC my cars ECU should be part number 89661-24540.
I removed the ECU and it has Denso part number 9717520-086-5 ...are these the same?
Is any one aware of a site where you can x reference denso/Toyota part numbers/

thanks

 

Anybody have an issue with the battery not charging and getting faults 21 and 31, my car is in limp mode and the battery dies while running.

 

Battery not charging could be multiple things Including the batter itself is bad or the alternator is bad/not charging. To seperate the two of theses problems get a Volt meter and put the positive lead of the meter on the positive battery post and negative of meter to batt negative post. With the car running, have somebody bring the gas up to 2500 Rpms with no load on the charging system (no lights, radio, ac, wipers) turn on, the volt meter should read between 13.9 to 14.5 V depending on the alternator. With loads on the system, (wipers, radio, flashers, lights, Ac, and window defrost) turn on @ 2500 Rpms you should see at least 13.0 to 14.0 V. if these are the readings you are getting, that shows that alternator is fine leaving you to just your battery. Now, if you have a way of confirming the battery is good "which is something you should do first" and you are not getting these readings, then you have other electrical problems. A bad batter will throw off the test results so make sure the batter is good and fully charged.
DTC 31 is for the Mass air flow sensor which is definitely why the car is in Limp mode. Cuz if your ecu is missing a signal from the meter the car will run like ****. The sensor could be bad, dirty, reading false air or something. Check the MAF sensor. DTC 21 is an O2 sensor code. Again, sensor could be mad, or have damages wires or possibly isn't plug in. These are things you need to check. Post your results if u still need help after this.

 

Doing the repin on the Orange and grey plugs fixed all the problems, only issue now is my shifter isn't matching the new trans. And can't manually shift into 3rd gear. Did people use the gs300 trans shifter rod or the arist0

 

the aristo trans has only 4 gears and the gs300 has 5 so that might be why you cant put it in 3rd gear.

 

I'm glad to see this is still alive!

I used the usdm gs300 shifter assembly with my aristo swap. Works perfectly.

 

Did you happen to document the process with the orange and grey plugs?

 

Me too, I am about to get started on this swap, however I do not have the time I used to so I am looking for a shop in the southwest to perform the work. Or I just submit to the fact it will take me all winter to do it myself a few hours at a time.

Any suggestions on a great shop in southern cali to do the swap?

 

I actually just moved to southern cali myself. I do not know much about this new area as far as the car scene goes. But i do know this place is freakin beautiful

 

From what pics i've seen over the years for car meets, modded cars, etc Cali has it all...

 

Yup I'm in the process of doing the swap too. Just picked up my 2jzgte swap Friday. Hoping to start this week

 

I have did the swap and it wont crank with the ecu but when i use the ge ecu it starts right up. I have bother ecu for this swap and both arent working. Is there anything i am not doing to make it start?

 

you need an non-immobilzer ECU

part number 89661-3A470

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-ARISTO-SUPRA-2JZ-GTE-VVTi-ENGINE-ECU-COMPUTER-89661-3A470-JDM-/181806824939?hash=item2a5487fdeb&vxp=mtr
I think you can re-program the Key to the new ECU also, but i have not looked into that option.

Kareem