I'll make this quick and easily as possible..

1). I'm trying to get my headers/manifold off, but the bolts are rusted to hell. (the ones that connect mid pipe to headers) PB blaster isn't helping, is my best bet just to cut the bolts off? I'm going turbo and I'm thinking about replacing the midpipe anyway. So, do it or not?

2). I have a SRT intake, at the end of the intake, there is a hose with going into the end of the filter, whats this? Vaccum?

3). If your standing at the front of the car, looking towards the rear, which trans line do I use to install my cooler, the right or left?



If I think of anymore questions, I'll be back to ask :P


Thanks!

 

1) I had the same issue with the bolts on my exhaust system. Nothing would penetrate enough to make me loosen the bolts. Your answer is heat. I brought my car to a local muffler shop and they simply used a torch, made the bolts cherry red and with their air ratchet it came right off without any problems. Look into this...

2) Yes, I believe this is a vacuum line.

3) IIRC, when I had my tranny cooler installed (if facing the car) the line on the right, should be the one coming from the tranny; this should be your "in" line and the "out" line would in turn be on the left returning back to the tranny. Someone please confirm this though...

 

1) Are you using an impact or by hand? If an impact just keep it over and over it should eventually break loose. Heat works too like mentioned, a shop will use an acetylene/oxy torch but a small propane hand torch will work to if you have one at home. If by hand then if you can't jack the car up high enough to get some long breaker bar on it you may not get it.. You can cut them off or use a nut splitter and use new bolts..

2) It's should be a crankcase breather line.

3) Not sure, I haven't done the tranny cooler, as I'm holding out to go manual. There was a good tranny cooler DIY here that should have the answer.

Good Luck!

 

1). I'll try torching them, and using my impact. Thanks.

2). Thanks, thought so.

3). gotcha


Thanks guys

 

Ugh, exhaust bolts are still stick on...even after heat. any suggestions?

 

Nice to hear your going NA-t, you've got a good looking car to back it up.
1) The rust thing happens, I had to sawzall my LS400 exhaust off after the cat in order to remove the passenger header and cat. I know your trying to keep your existing exhaust, so a sawzall is probably your last resort. Heat is always a good first alternative if air doesn't work. After that, your going to need to cut them off or break them off. A 5" angle grinder usually works pretty good. If you trying to keep the flange, be very careful cutting the bolts. If your going to scrap that flange, and use something different, i.e. v-band or new piping altogether, just get after it...

2) I'm not exactly familiar with the SRT intake, but hopefully this helps..
http://my.is/forums/f221/diy-intake-...-is300-386295/

3) The cooler isn't uni-directional, you can install it on either line. I am using a Hayden 24,000 GVW cooler, I chose to install mine on the return line, in line with the factory cooler in the rad. My thought process was that the external tranny cooler is probably cooler than the one built into the rad, especially in these cold winters. I haven't had any problems with mine.

In order, Air, Heat, Strength, Cut... I usually go from Air to Cut, but to each his own.

 

1). I'm keeping my aftermarket exhaust, but I think it starts at the midpipe, which I'm replacing anyway. I never thought about the sawzall.

2). Thanks


3). I installed it yesterday, I used the return line also