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Apexi-Neo Tuned and Dynoed Today 3/6/09

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Old 03-08-09, 11:56 PM
  #16  
sam430
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off topic but how long did it take the cel to come on when you forget to close the fuel cap? I drove with it open for awhile and never got a CEL.
Old 03-09-09, 06:59 AM
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DASHOCKER
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Excellent numbers stranger. When did you do all these mods to your car Clive? The North East Forum is up & running..
Old 03-09-09, 07:50 AM
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clivej
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Hi
Sean, the suspension was done between mid 07 to spring 08 and the performance was done late 08.

Clive
Old 03-09-09, 11:52 AM
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sam430
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Just an FYI...read this at another forum.

As of 10/24/2008, v1.104 of the AFC Neo firmware is available. If your "Program Version" (located on "etc." menu) is less than v1.104, contact Apex Integration (A'PEXi U.S.A. - Home Page) to get your RMA number.
Old 03-09-09, 12:23 PM
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Rock-a-Lex
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Originally Posted by sam430
Just an FYI...read this at another forum.

As of 10/24/2008, v1.104 of the AFC Neo firmware is available. If your "Program Version" (located on "etc." menu) is less than v1.104, contact Apex Integration (A'PEXi U.S.A. - Home Page) to get your RMA number.
What is this for?
Old 03-09-09, 01:15 PM
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sam430
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There's a program bug in the Karman function... I don't have a neo yet so I don't know what it entails. The result is people who uses that function can not tune correctly.

http://www.supercar-engineering.com/...Neo/index.html
Old 03-10-09, 06:38 AM
  #22  
clivej
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Hi guys,
Update the numbers. Max HP =266, Max TQ=264. fuel=13.0
I am not knowledgeable on the fuel numbers so if anyone would like to respond and explain what it means and if this is a good/bad numbers please jump in.
Thanks, Clive.

PS
To answer Sam430.
The CEL took about a half an hour to show up.
Clive.

Last edited by clivej; 03-10-09 at 06:46 AM.
Old 03-17-09, 09:21 PM
  #23  
vwynn
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how much do you gys pay for a dyno run?
Old 03-17-09, 11:12 PM
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sam430
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90 bux for three run.
Old 03-18-09, 11:04 AM
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JBrady
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Originally Posted by clivej
Hi guys,
Update the numbers. Max HP =266, Max TQ=264. fuel=13.0
I am not knowledgeable on the fuel numbers so if anyone would like to respond and explain what it means and if this is a good/bad numbers please jump in.
Thanks, Clive.

PS
To answer Sam430.
The CEL took about a half an hour to show up.
Clive.
13.0 air fuel ratio may be too lean. The leaner the ratio (up to a point) the more power an engine makes......... BUT!!!! ..... the more likely it becomes that the engine will reach the limits of pre-ignition and detonation which are the two of the three conditions most likely to destroy an engine.

The use of tuning devices and software combined with chassis dynos such as the Dynojet have created the ability to maximize power. This comes with a danger and that is destructive tuning.

Many if not most will find it hard to understand that a Dynojet does not load the engine in the many conditions that the engine may experience when street or track driven. Tuning an engine to its very edge on a Dynojet can often make an engine exceed its limits when street or track driven. This is highly critical especially on turbo/supercharged/nitrous/high RPM engines but is a concern for any engine.

Now, your 13.0 ratio is probably not going to destroy your engine but be CERTAIN to use the highest octane fuel ALWAYS... preferably 93+

ALWAYS pay attention to your engines SOUND if you hear any unusual noises, pinging, rough running under throttle SLOW DOWN.

I am not trying to scare you here and you will probably be fine if you do the above. This is just one of those things that is human nature. We WANT the MOST we can get... so we want the tuner to tune for maximum power but most don't know the consequences. A dynojet tune of 12.5 is probably a better idea which means the street conditions will probably max in the 13.0 to 13.5 range.
Old 03-18-09, 12:19 PM
  #26  
macd7919
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Originally Posted by jbrady
13.0 air fuel ratio may be too lean.


Now, your 13.0 ratio is probably not going to destroy your engine but be CERTAIN to use the highest octane fuel ALWAYS... preferably 93+

A dynojet tune of 12.5 is probably a better idea which means the street conditions will probably max in the 13.0 to 13.5 range.
I think you are getting the ratio confused, 13.0 is on the rich side or perfectly safe if you want to look at it that way. Turbo cars run in the 11's and 12's. Stoic is at 14.7 which is considered a perfect burn for a N/A application though it is on the edge of safety, if anything I would say to lean out the fuel a little bit closer to a 13.5 a/f. You aren't running a turbo/supercharger/nitrous so your factor of safety in the fueling doesn't play as important of a role since there isn't anything that is going to drastically change the volume of air going into the motor (such as a boost spike on a turbo car).

Either way, the advice in the previous post is good advice against running a lean condition however I think the numbers just got mixed up (13 on a N/A car is rich/middle of the road but not too lean).

Last edited by macd7919; 03-18-09 at 12:23 PM.
Old 03-18-09, 02:50 PM
  #27  
JBrady
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Originally Posted by macd7919
I think you are getting the ratio confused, 13.0 is on the rich side or perfectly safe if you want to look at it that way. Turbo cars run in the 11's and 12's. Stoic is at 14.7 which is considered a perfect burn for a N/A application though it is on the edge of safety, if anything I would say to lean out the fuel a little bit closer to a 13.5 a/f. You aren't running a turbo/supercharger/nitrous so your factor of safety in the fueling doesn't play as important of a role since there isn't anything that is going to drastically change the volume of air going into the motor (such as a boost spike on a turbo car).

Either way, the advice in the previous post is good advice against running a lean condition however I think the numbers just got mixed up (13 on a N/A car is rich/middle of the road but not too lean).
No, I meant and mean lean. 14.7 stoichiometric is the ratio for complete combustion under light load BUT it is NOT the ratio for safe operation during heavy load such as acceleration runs.

Turbo/supercharged and nitrous engines are generally set up to run richer (ie: 11.0 or so ) when performance dyno tuning to reduce the chance of lean running of any given cylinder due to bias cylinder filling.

Since there is only 1 oxy sensor per side it averages 4 cylinders and cannot know if one is too rich or lean. Running slightly rich is therefore safer. Rich is also cooler combustion (usually) although often higher EGTs.

Similar situations occur due to ignition timing but I don't think that is adjustable on our applications.

13.0 on the Dynojet is LEAN for full power operation. Real world operation could easily be 13.5 even 14.0 which is EXTREMELY lean for full power operation.

Factory A/F usually very rich (11.0 or so) at full power to reduce chance of damage especially since some will use 87 octane fuel. This is one of the key ways to increase power with tuning... lean out the mixture. Going to 13 is pushing it IMHO.
Old 03-18-09, 04:45 PM
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i have tuned LOTS of hondas on dynojets (this is my first lexus...ive spent the lst 16 years tuning and building hondas) and in my experience, there is very very little difference between a dynojet and the street. (if the dyno is setup correctly) i allways tune for 13.0-13.5 for n/a power on the dyno. i have tuned just shy of 100 hondas and have not had to retune a single one of them after dyno tuning. maybe im lucky, but i would like to think otherwise
Old 03-18-09, 07:59 PM
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Well, I'm going back to the place where I got my dyno done last year (and where Clivej just went) in the next week or so; I now have time finally to get my A$$ there! lol.

Here are some particulars from their website "No Limit Motorsports" regarding the dyno that they use. Hope this helps and clears some things up...

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/dyno.html

Let me know what you guys think of this particular dyno.
Old 03-19-09, 09:11 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jbrady
No, I meant and mean lean. 14.7 stoichiometric is the ratio for complete combustion under light load BUT it is NOT the ratio for safe operation during heavy load such as acceleration runs.

Turbo/supercharged and nitrous engines are generally set up to run richer (ie: 11.0 or so ) when performance dyno tuning to reduce the chance of lean running of any given cylinder due to bias cylinder filling.

Since there is only 1 oxy sensor per side it averages 4 cylinders and cannot know if one is too rich or lean. Running slightly rich is therefore safer. Rich is also cooler combustion (usually) although often higher EGTs.

Similar situations occur due to ignition timing but I don't think that is adjustable on our applications.

13.0 on the Dynojet is LEAN for full power operation. Real world operation could easily be 13.5 even 14.0 which is EXTREMELY lean for full power operation.

Factory A/F usually very rich (11.0 or so) at full power to reduce chance of damage especially since some will use 87 octane fuel. This is one of the key ways to increase power with tuning... lean out the mixture. Going to 13 is pushing it IMHO.

I guess we can agree to disagree. In my previous post I wasn't suggesting running at 14.7, all I was saying is that is complete burn, hence the reason I mentioned tuning for a 13.5 or so ratio. I personally haven't seen any Lexus vehicles that have dynoed at 11.0 (avg across the board) factory, MAYBE hitting it at a couple of spots for a split second but not what I would consider enough to say the car is tuned for 11.0.

I agree running rich is safer but I don't think the OP would be over the line of safety running a 13.5 ratio and could probably pick up a decent amount of power from 13.0 and still be well within safety margins. The timing margins on a stock Lexus are quite wide and will pull timing before any serious detonation occurs though I highly doubt that there will be any detonation issues running premium fuel.

Either way, IMO there is power to be had and still be well within safety at 13.5 or so.


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