GS4 track car build gets underway, 2jz, V160
I'm actually working the Formula Drift event out in Long Beach right now. I'm running the speed gun. I've been meaning to get the pics up of the flaring i had to do on the fenders but I've just been hella busy plus anytime I do get to work on the car I'm unmotivated b/c i'm so tired. I know I'm full of excuses but hey thats how the cookie crumbles. I'm having a blast over in long beach and looking at the pro cars fab work has given refreshed thinking and ideas for the car. top 32 is tomorrow and then i'm headed back to vegas tomorrow night!!! maybe i'll get something done on it sunday.
update will come soon i promise!!!
update will come soon i promise!!!
Ok guys sorry for the wait. I must admit the updates will start to come a little slower from now on. My business is sucking up most of my time plus the little day and weekend trips i've been taking to cali.
On another business note I'm attending the ACP class at EFI University next month which means I will be a certified tuner after it. Granted I pass all of the tests. Hopefully this will generate some extra income to help the car out. So If some of you GS guys need a tuner and want to run over to Vegas for a tune and some casino play I'll be your man!!! haha
Ok so here we go I only have pics of the flares i've done and I walk through the process for anyone that wants to do the same(doubt it hella pulled) but it anyone has the heart to beat the **** out of there car your in for some nice flare-age.
ok for the amount of flare i was looking for this could not pull out the fender nearly enough.
ok on both rear inner fenders there is a ridge. I cut from this ridge the all the way around in a big arch. this frees up the outer body fender to pull further out. There are spot welds holding this piece that I cut to the out fender at the rim of the fender. Enter the fender roller. You can press the fender roller hard enough to pop these spot welds and brake away the piece of inner fender off and away from the car.
sorry i thought a took of shot of the inside piece i cut out but i don't. I'll take one the next time i take the rear tires off
I got an extre 1 1/4-1 1/2 of clearance. This was all done with a hammer!!! It needs some filler and sanding but will have a arch with a flat lip once body work is done.
pass side
driver side
interior shot of material cut out from the inner fender.
On another business note I'm attending the ACP class at EFI University next month which means I will be a certified tuner after it. Granted I pass all of the tests. Hopefully this will generate some extra income to help the car out. So If some of you GS guys need a tuner and want to run over to Vegas for a tune and some casino play I'll be your man!!! haha
Ok so here we go I only have pics of the flares i've done and I walk through the process for anyone that wants to do the same(doubt it hella pulled) but it anyone has the heart to beat the **** out of there car your in for some nice flare-age.
ok for the amount of flare i was looking for this could not pull out the fender nearly enough.
ok on both rear inner fenders there is a ridge. I cut from this ridge the all the way around in a big arch. this frees up the outer body fender to pull further out. There are spot welds holding this piece that I cut to the out fender at the rim of the fender. Enter the fender roller. You can press the fender roller hard enough to pop these spot welds and brake away the piece of inner fender off and away from the car.
sorry i thought a took of shot of the inside piece i cut out but i don't. I'll take one the next time i take the rear tires off
I got an extre 1 1/4-1 1/2 of clearance. This was all done with a hammer!!! It needs some filler and sanding but will have a arch with a flat lip once body work is done.
pass side
driver side
interior shot of material cut out from the inner fender.
You going to try and compete with this thing? I would think with the cage and suspension mods the chassis would be stiff enough.
thats up for debate. even the car is rather heavy still. If the car is too ridge i'll run the rear suspension sway bar less. This while add a little roll and some squat from better rear traction. I'd rather get the car too stiff and work my way back to soft with suspension setting. I'm also going to be removing some of the metal on the front fenders so the stitch welding should counteract any loss of rigidity that may come from removing of the front inner fender metal.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 72
Likes: 20
From: California
well I was talking to the main US tuner for the v-pro today and he told me for my power goals 500-600whp vvti is a waste of time. I'm plan on running the v-pro as a full standalone instead of a piggy back which would mean i would have add the HKS valcon in order to control the VVTI(instead of the stock ecu). which would have been ~$1500 or so full everything needed for the valcon.
So he told me to pick up and regular GTE head with upgraded valve springs to handle the higher rpm's and sell the VVTi head. So thats the direction I'm taking now. I wanted to keep the VVTI but at this point all i want is to get the thing finished at the power I want.
I also found out the V-pro needs a speed sensor signal in order for proper "load" tuning. Catch is that the signal from all the speed sensors comes out "s" wave then goes into the speedo and ODO and comes out "Square" wave to the ECU. All ECUs can only read speed in this Square wave. I plan on going with a Aim Sports dash unit which doesn't have a digital out. I found a converter over at Dakota Digital that can convert the "s" wave signal into "Square" wave by tapping into the speed wire that goes to the Aim Sports dash unit so the HKS V-Pro can get its speed signal. If Dakota Digital didn't have that converter I would have to have to rip a oem cluster apart just to get that little converter part.
So he told me to pick up and regular GTE head with upgraded valve springs to handle the higher rpm's and sell the VVTi head. So thats the direction I'm taking now. I wanted to keep the VVTI but at this point all i want is to get the thing finished at the power I want.
I also found out the V-pro needs a speed sensor signal in order for proper "load" tuning. Catch is that the signal from all the speed sensors comes out "s" wave then goes into the speedo and ODO and comes out "Square" wave to the ECU. All ECUs can only read speed in this Square wave. I plan on going with a Aim Sports dash unit which doesn't have a digital out. I found a converter over at Dakota Digital that can convert the "s" wave signal into "Square" wave by tapping into the speed wire that goes to the Aim Sports dash unit so the HKS V-Pro can get its speed signal. If Dakota Digital didn't have that converter I would have to have to rip a oem cluster apart just to get that little converter part.
I have a simular setup as yours: 67mm, fuel system, Vpro etc etc. I also have the Vpro software so I am fairly familiar with how it works.
Just curious on your reasonings. I like the build !
Who is your tuner? The VVTi GTE motors are great motors, usually tuners shy away from them because they aren't fimiliar with them. Also, why don't you just run the oem ecu/Vpro combination like 99% of the other cars. I do realize this is not a street car, but the Vpro will still have complete control over everything except idle and VVTi (Although you can obviously have the Vpro control those too, it just costs more money.)
I have a simular setup as yours: 67mm, fuel system, Vpro etc etc. I also have the Vpro software so I am fairly familiar with how it works.
Just curious on your reasonings. I like the build !
I have a simular setup as yours: 67mm, fuel system, Vpro etc etc. I also have the Vpro software so I am fairly familiar with how it works.
Just curious on your reasonings. I like the build !
SP Engineering tuning your setup?