tommyGS3

iTrader: (4)

okay jeff.... here a ? for u.


i'm going bigger.. so whats the pros and cons of using ball bearing turbos instead non bearing turbos...

fordsvtmfl

iTrader: (13)

What is the best Head Gasket for the money? Also can a 87mm bore HG work with a normal 2jzge? (unless I'm mistaken, our cars are 85mm stock...)
hey jeff how's the progress on the car?
Thanks

VNN326

iTrader: (21)

jeff, this might be a stupid question, but i always wanted to turbo my car. whats the most psi i can boost in a stock motor and trany? 2000 GS3, no paddle shifters. im just into that look and sound. im not really going to race anyone or anything.

fordsvtmfl

iTrader: (13)

try reading pages 1 and 2 of this thread...

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Ball bearing turbos greatest advantage is that they spool up quicker than their non BB counterparts. Say if you had two identical turbos with the same compressor/exhaust housings, same exact wheels on both sides...but one was ball bearing and the other was a sleeve bearing. If the sleeve bearing turbo hit full boost at 3500rpm, the turbo one will hit it about 500rpm sooner. I know 500rpm doesn't sound like much, but on the street it makes a huge difference in drivability. It's also not just about hitting full boost. The BB turbo also has significantly more power across the powerband in partial boost below full boost. They can also sustain higher boost levels because of the way the BB turbo is designed, it is able to take on greater thrust loads before failing. The coolest thing is that the ball bearing turbos have so little resistance that you can literally blow on the fins and the wheel will start to spin!

The disadvantage of BB turbos is that they are very expensive to rebuild. Most shops don't even attempt to rebuild the turbo, they just replace the whole center assembly which obviously is not cheap!

Best for the money, I would just go with Cometic and also don't forget to pick up a set of ARP head studs. All aftermarket HG are 87mm bore I believe. It's fine to run it on stock bore. Stock bore is 86mm, a built engine with bored out pistons can increase the bore to 87mm and will raise the engine to approx 3.1L of displacement.

fordsvtmfl

iTrader: (13)

hey, ok do I need different plugs when I run a turbo? (I currently have the bosch IR Fusion plugs (basically a 4 point platinum plug lol), but my friend says I need to run "colder" plugs...and well, besides him, Ive never heard that...so whats the deal?

Deception

iTrader: (1)

great writeup im waiting for my piggy back and electroinics and im ready to start the project.

jwin

iTrader: (16)

if i am not mistaken a colder plug is needed for boosted car or high compression car to help prevent detonation

fordsvtmfl

iTrader: (13)

Quick question about the injectors...will a OEM Rx-7 460cc injector be a direct drop in for the 2zjge? (and what year range does that apply for with the rx7) and what do you think of $35 per injector? (rebuilt w/warranty)
Thanks

mtparker18

Heres a question.
I'm starting to buy everything I need for the NA-T what should I buy first and where?
Also, what all do i need to buy for the conversion?
I want to be around 400 hp when it's all done, I know mostly what I need but I figured I'd ask before I start buying and buy something wrong :P

ZippyGuy

iTrader: (9)

Hey man - I think we're in the same spot. I'm in the process of doing a HP/$ comparison and matching that against a cost/benefit analysis on parts to figure out the best direction. From that research, IMO, the first place to start is a strong NA-T exhaust manifold, then the properly matched turbo, then wastegate, etc. so on.

Since most of the aftermarket folks have moved on to newer model vehicle, this might be your biggest challenge. My suggestion from the research I've done to date is that you go to Titan Motorsports or MVP Motorsports and search NA Supra applications, 93-98, for conversion to Turbo. I think what you'll find is that for a nicely done EM you're going to pay $800-1,300 for the part but you'll thank yourself if you ever want to run boost high enough to move to the 360+ range.

If you want to PM I'm happy to share what I have.

You also might want to visit The MKIV Supra Owners Club for tips (http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/index.php) or Supra Forums (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=414073). On the Supra forums I dropped you off on a page that shows a lot of the set-ups guys are running for road racing, a lot of them are NA-T set-ups.

ZippyGuy

iTrader: (9)

BTW - Jeff, thanks for starting this thread. It would be if it was a sticky that folks could build on.

mtparker18

Thanks for the info. As far as the Mani, I was going to buy the EM from SRT which is around $350 if I remember right.

The biggest problem I have is trying to pick the right turbo and where to buy all the parts that also won't kill me price wise (before anyone preaches, yes, I know this project will cost a lot of money. )

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Colder plugs draw away more heat from the spark plug tip allowing more power with less detonation. It does this by recessing the plug tip further inside the housing. The conductor is shorter and closer to the spark plug housing, so this allows faster heat transfer/cooling to the engine head.

So, running a colder plug is great right...why not just put coldest possible plugs in every car out of the factory? Well, the spark plug will foul quickly if the plug is too cold. If it's too hot then it will cause pre-ignition. The heat on the plug helps burn away the carbon deposits which foul the plug. So as you can see, you must find the plugs that are best for your power goals. Generally, you go one heat range colder for each 200hp or so you pass the facotry rating. Most 2JZ guys including myself have good luck running NGK 7 heat range plugs. Some people run 6 range, but thats for extreme power applications(I might have to switch to those soon lol). Anyways, for your car just get a Iridium plug with heat range one step closer than stock and you'll be good to roll. Also, if those platinum plugs haven't been used yet then I recommend you return them and buy Iridium tip plugs instead.

The 550cc RX7 injectors are the drop in ones. Not sure if the 460cc ones are or not. If they fit, $35 per injector is a great deal.

If you're piecing together a kit, then just buy part by part. Turbo, wastegate, manifold, BOV, downpipe, intercooler, intercooler piping, etc. There's no specific order to buy they stuff. Just get it as you find a good deal or have money.

Also, you can use the ebay manifold and intercooler. It works great for low power(under 500-600rwhp) applications. You don't need a serious high dollar manifold until you start exceeding the 800hp+ range. I'm currently running an el-cheapo ebay manifold and I'm about to push around 800hp through it. I'll report back soon on how well it holds up

mtparker18

Jeff, what would be a good "starting" turbo? T4?