VSC and VSC Off Lights - Limp Mode
10-08-12, 12:17 PM
#301
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I think P1139 an Oxygen Sensor Code?
there is a 99% chance the ECU itself is good.
Replacing the ECU means reprogramming keys etc. In other words, dont replace it unless you really have to.
As for still in Limp mode, Im not sure P1139 would cause you to go into full limp mode
there is a 99% chance the ECU itself is good.
Replacing the ECU means reprogramming keys etc. In other words, dont replace it unless you really have to.
As for still in Limp mode, Im not sure P1139 would cause you to go into full limp mode
10-10-12, 04:16 AM
#303
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VSC, VSC OFF and ENGINE light came on! this happened yesterday while on the freeway after i floored my GS4... the codes were p1125 and p1128. And whats weird is the car drives fine till the RPM reaches 4000 the all lights above will light up and the RPM stucks at around 2500 rpm the more i step on the gas the higher the rpm stucks! and also all the light reset after resetting the ECU. any idea for what am dealing with!
Please forgive my grammar
Please forgive my grammar
10-10-12, 09:16 AM
#304
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
well...
Lexus do say "Premium Only" next to the gas cap...and in the owners manual...
Running regular causes pinging in these engines due to the timing and compression designed into the engine...pinging causes problems such as damaging spark plugs, even valves and piston and heads over time.
Pinging is causes from the gasoline igniting too early which pushes back on the piston before it should and causes really bad hot spots.
Also doesnt allow full combustion which then leads to catalytic issues.
Premium gas has more octane which raises the temp and pressure at which gasoline will ignite, forcing the gas to wait to ignite for the spark, rather than pre-ignite from the compression and hot spots.
Lexus do say "Premium Only" next to the gas cap...and in the owners manual...Running regular causes pinging in these engines due to the timing and compression designed into the engine...pinging causes problems such as damaging spark plugs, even valves and piston and heads over time.
Pinging is causes from the gasoline igniting too early which pushes back on the piston before it should and causes really bad hot spots.
Also doesnt allow full combustion which then leads to catalytic issues.
Premium gas has more octane which raises the temp and pressure at which gasoline will ignite, forcing the gas to wait to ignite for the spark, rather than pre-ignite from the compression and hot spots.
10-10-12, 09:22 AM
#305
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Its very possible your dealing with the same TB sensor/idle control motor issues as those who get stuck in full limp mode.
(Im going off what you said exactly about engine still revving - this should mean your also moving faster and faster, if your car isnt really moving faster and it shows higher RPM, you need to look into transmission issues as well as TB issues)
The reason I say this is because your saying your getting stuck at high RPM's...this is only possible thru the electronics. Since your throttle cable doesnt actually pull the throttle plate open, it controls an electronic sensor which then tells the idle control motor to open the valve.
Now with all the being said, the other issue you might be having is a stuck/sticky throttle cable.
If you throttle cable gets stuck open, it tells the Accel pedal sensor that your foot is still on the pedal, and it then sends a signal to the idle control motor to keep the throttle open.
Get under the hood, disconnect the cable from the TB and see how well the cable slides, if its not sticky, then your sensors are bad or the idle control motor is freaking out and getting stuck (which is dangerous)
(Im going off what you said exactly about engine still revving - this should mean your also moving faster and faster, if your car isnt really moving faster and it shows higher RPM, you need to look into transmission issues as well as TB issues)
The reason I say this is because your saying your getting stuck at high RPM's...this is only possible thru the electronics. Since your throttle cable doesnt actually pull the throttle plate open, it controls an electronic sensor which then tells the idle control motor to open the valve.
Now with all the being said, the other issue you might be having is a stuck/sticky throttle cable.
If you throttle cable gets stuck open, it tells the Accel pedal sensor that your foot is still on the pedal, and it then sends a signal to the idle control motor to keep the throttle open.
Get under the hood, disconnect the cable from the TB and see how well the cable slides, if its not sticky, then your sensors are bad or the idle control motor is freaking out and getting stuck (which is dangerous)
VSC, VSC OFF and ENGINE light came on! this happened yesterday while on the freeway after i floored my GS4... the codes were p1125 and p1128. And whats weird is the car drives fine till the RPM reaches 4000 the all lights above will light up and the RPM stucks at around 2500 rpm the more i step on the gas the higher the rpm stucks! and also all the light reset after resetting the ECU. any idea for what am dealing with!
Please forgive my grammar
Please forgive my grammar
10-10-12, 11:20 AM
#306
Yes I know I'm suppose to pump premium but I thought regular wouldn't hurt. Since you actually went into details on the difference between regular and premium, I will pump premium. Lol. Gas prices are killer nowadays but it's not worth trashing a luxury car. I just see lambs, jags, bentleys pumping gas at 7-11's or SAMs club gas and I just thought it was ok since they're pumping cheap gas. But, I guess they have money to buy another Bentley. But is it true what I outed from the previous fellow member that if you pumped regular gas, it actually causes the warning lights to come on? It just happened when I switched from bags to stance coilovers and I zip tied my brake lines to the strut since it doesn't have a bracket for struts. I just searched on CL and couldn't find as to why but speed sensors and brake master cylinder. I had them checked and all is fine.
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well... Lexus do say "Premium Only" next to the gas cap...and in the owners manual...
Running regular causes pinging in these engines due to the timing and compression designed into the engine...pinging causes problems such as damaging spark plugs, even valves and piston and heads over time.
Pinging is causes from the gasoline igniting too early which pushes back on the piston before it should and causes really bad hot spots.
Also doesnt allow full combustion which then leads to catalytic issues.
Premium gas has more octane which raises the temp and pressure at which gasoline will ignite, forcing the gas to wait to ignite for the spark, rather than pre-ignite from the compression and hot spots.
Lexus do say "Premium Only" next to the gas cap...and in the owners manual...Running regular causes pinging in these engines due to the timing and compression designed into the engine...pinging causes problems such as damaging spark plugs, even valves and piston and heads over time.
Pinging is causes from the gasoline igniting too early which pushes back on the piston before it should and causes really bad hot spots.
Also doesnt allow full combustion which then leads to catalytic issues.
Premium gas has more octane which raises the temp and pressure at which gasoline will ignite, forcing the gas to wait to ignite for the spark, rather than pre-ignite from the compression and hot spots.
10-10-12, 08:05 PM
#307
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Its very possible your dealing with the same TB sensor/idle control motor issues as those who get stuck in full limp mode.
(Im going off what you said exactly about engine still revving - this should mean your also moving faster and faster, if your car isnt really moving faster and it shows higher RPM, you need to look into transmission issues as well as TB issues)
The reason I say this is because your saying your getting stuck at high RPM's...this is only possible thru the electronics. Since your throttle cable doesnt actually pull the throttle plate open, it controls an electronic sensor which then tells the idle control motor to open the valve.
Now with all the being said, the other issue you might be having is a stuck/sticky throttle cable.
If you throttle cable gets stuck open, it tells the Accel pedal sensor that your foot is still on the pedal, and it then sends a signal to the idle control motor to keep the throttle open.
Get under the hood, disconnect the cable from the TB and see how well the cable slides, if its not sticky, then your sensors are bad or the idle control motor is freaking out and getting stuck (which is dangerous)
(Im going off what you said exactly about engine still revving - this should mean your also moving faster and faster, if your car isnt really moving faster and it shows higher RPM, you need to look into transmission issues as well as TB issues)
The reason I say this is because your saying your getting stuck at high RPM's...this is only possible thru the electronics. Since your throttle cable doesnt actually pull the throttle plate open, it controls an electronic sensor which then tells the idle control motor to open the valve.
Now with all the being said, the other issue you might be having is a stuck/sticky throttle cable.
If you throttle cable gets stuck open, it tells the Accel pedal sensor that your foot is still on the pedal, and it then sends a signal to the idle control motor to keep the throttle open.
Get under the hood, disconnect the cable from the TB and see how well the cable slides, if its not sticky, then your sensors are bad or the idle control motor is freaking out and getting stuck (which is dangerous)
But all of this didnt happen after disconnecting the battery for few minutes! and ill definitely check out the throttle cable to see if it does stick.
10-11-12, 08:51 AM
#308
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Regular gasoline can (and will with time) cause actual damage to engines requiring higher octane. You can get away with mid-grade as long as your not hammering the pedal at every light or driving 100mph, but even mid-grade will cause pinging.
Inside the engine are ping sensors, the will retard the ignition and VVTi timing as far as possible to compensate for pinging, with Mid-Grade the system will be able to do this for the most part, at the expense of mpg and performance, but with regular it cant adjust far enough, so the pinging continues even if you cant hear it, thats when hot spots occur and valve/piston/cylinder head damage may occur, as well as burning up spark plugs.
As for the problem starting when you did coil overs, I just cant see that having any impact, the speed sensors are located deep inside the wheel bearing hub assembly. Perhaps one of those wires is old/cracked and was pulled and making intermittent contact?
Inside the engine are ping sensors, the will retard the ignition and VVTi timing as far as possible to compensate for pinging, with Mid-Grade the system will be able to do this for the most part, at the expense of mpg and performance, but with regular it cant adjust far enough, so the pinging continues even if you cant hear it, thats when hot spots occur and valve/piston/cylinder head damage may occur, as well as burning up spark plugs.
As for the problem starting when you did coil overs, I just cant see that having any impact, the speed sensors are located deep inside the wheel bearing hub assembly. Perhaps one of those wires is old/cracked and was pulled and making intermittent contact?
Yes I know I'm suppose to pump premium but I thought regular wouldn't hurt. Since you actually went into details on the difference between regular and premium, I will pump premium. Lol. Gas prices are killer nowadays but it's not worth trashing a luxury car. I just see lambs, jags, bentleys pumping gas at 7-11's or SAMs club gas and I just thought it was ok since they're pumping cheap gas. But, I guess they have money to buy another Bentley. But is it true what I outed from the previous fellow member that if you pumped regular gas, it actually causes the warning lights to come on? It just happened when I switched from bags to stance coilovers and I zip tied my brake lines to the strut since it doesn't have a bracket for struts. I just searched on CL and couldn't find as to why but speed sensors and brake master cylinder. I had them checked and all is fine.
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10-11-12, 08:55 AM
#309
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Sounds more like the idle throttle control motor....maybe:
Now, that being said, that motor is controlled by signals sent to the ECU from the accel pedal sensor, and then feedback from the TPS sensor.
If the gears and axles inside the TB that the motor connect to get sticky, not allowing that throttle plate to flip back, then you will get all sorts of problems.
Id suggest taking the TB off and seeing how well those gears and the throttle plate move with the Throttle motor taken off. (Cant rotate easily with the motor on) You may find sticky gears or corrosion on the shafts.
Now, that being said, that motor is controlled by signals sent to the ECU from the accel pedal sensor, and then feedback from the TPS sensor.
If the gears and axles inside the TB that the motor connect to get sticky, not allowing that throttle plate to flip back, then you will get all sorts of problems.
Id suggest taking the TB off and seeing how well those gears and the throttle plate move with the Throttle motor taken off. (Cant rotate easily with the motor on) You may find sticky gears or corrosion on the shafts.
Thanks for the reply! But i honestly believe that its the idle control motor itself because things reset back to normal after reseting the ECU. would the pedal cable being stuck can cause vsc and engine light to pup up and bring up malfunction codes? P1125 ( Throttle control motor CIRCUIT malfunction) P1128 ( Throttle motor LOCK malfunction). Also the car shuts itself when the malfunctions light go off usually at high RPM while driving! then i stop park and REV up the engine thats when the RPM sticks higher and higher the farthest down i step on the gas pedal.
But all of this didnt happen after disconnecting the battery for few minutes! and ill definitely check out the throttle cable to see if it does stick.
But all of this didnt happen after disconnecting the battery for few minutes! and ill definitely check out the throttle cable to see if it does stick.
10-11-12, 07:21 PM
#310
Well I did have my front brake disc resurfaced to make even. When I installed my bags, I remember my friend holding onto the calipers instead of letting it hang. When I got my brake disc resurfaced, the guy actually let it hang and dangled swinging back and forth. Do you think that could've caused it? Thanks Dave for your swift response! My rpm compared to previous cars I've owned seems to be high on the gs300. I was told its our ****ty 5speed auto trans. I'm hitting 3500k going 85mph on the highways. Clean title straight from the Lexus dealership. I'm at 70k on the '04 gs300
10-13-12, 09:48 PM
#311
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Sounds more like the idle throttle control motor....maybe:
Now, that being said, that motor is controlled by signals sent to the ECU from the accel pedal sensor, and then feedback from the TPS sensor.
If the gears and axles inside the TB that the motor connect to get sticky, not allowing that throttle plate to flip back, then you will get all sorts of problems.
Id suggest taking the TB off and seeing how well those gears and the throttle plate move with the Throttle motor taken off. (Cant rotate easily with the motor on) You may find sticky gears or corrosion on the shafts.
Now, that being said, that motor is controlled by signals sent to the ECU from the accel pedal sensor, and then feedback from the TPS sensor.
If the gears and axles inside the TB that the motor connect to get sticky, not allowing that throttle plate to flip back, then you will get all sorts of problems.
Id suggest taking the TB off and seeing how well those gears and the throttle plate move with the Throttle motor taken off. (Cant rotate easily with the motor on) You may find sticky gears or corrosion on the shafts.
10-16-12, 09:20 AM
#312
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Calipers dangling wont cause a prob, the sensors are deep inside the wheel bearing hub.
My 5-speed tranny held out til 225K miles. 3500 at 85mph..hmm...seems only a little too high. GS's are geared differently.
My chevy truck does 76mph at 2000rpm but my GS is around 3000rpm just under 80mph.
I think your 04 is a V6 not a straight 6? if so the TB and everything is way different from the older gen (I cant remember what year changed to V6, and too lazy to open a new tab and google it!!! LOL)
My 5-speed tranny held out til 225K miles. 3500 at 85mph..hmm...seems only a little too high. GS's are geared differently.
My chevy truck does 76mph at 2000rpm but my GS is around 3000rpm just under 80mph.
I think your 04 is a V6 not a straight 6? if so the TB and everything is way different from the older gen (I cant remember what year changed to V6, and too lazy to open a new tab and google it!!! LOL)
Well I did have my front brake disc resurfaced to make even. When I installed my bags, I remember my friend holding onto the calipers instead of letting it hang. When I got my brake disc resurfaced, the guy actually let it hang and dangled swinging back and forth. Do you think that could've caused it? Thanks Dave for your swift response! My rpm compared to previous cars I've owned seems to be high on the gs300. I was told its our ****ty 5speed auto trans. I'm hitting 3500k going 85mph on the highways. Clean title straight from the Lexus dealership. I'm at 70k on the '04 gs300
10-16-12, 09:22 AM
#313
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Hope you find the problem. When I had the problem a few yrs ago the Dealers just were asses and just wanted to start replacing things. They would pull a code and say it required the entire TB replaced.
Voodoo mechanic if ya ask me.
At any rate, with the advances in scanners these days, I would be inclined to trust the codes first and make repairs based on exact codes...worst case scenario is you end up replacing what the dealer would have done, at half the price.
Voodoo mechanic if ya ask me.
At any rate, with the advances in scanners these days, I would be inclined to trust the codes first and make repairs based on exact codes...worst case scenario is you end up replacing what the dealer would have done, at half the price.
10-17-12, 03:02 PM
#314
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Hope you find the problem. When I had the problem a few yrs ago the Dealers just were asses and just wanted to start replacing things. They would pull a code and say it required the entire TB replaced.
Voodoo mechanic if ya ask me.
At any rate, with the advances in scanners these days, I would be inclined to trust the codes first and make repairs based on exact codes...worst case scenario is you end up replacing what the dealer would have done, at half the price.
Voodoo mechanic if ya ask me.
At any rate, with the advances in scanners these days, I would be inclined to trust the codes first and make repairs based on exact codes...worst case scenario is you end up replacing what the dealer would have done, at half the price.
10-18-12, 06:11 PM
#315
i delt with this issue on my buddy's gs400 ended up being the ecu the stealership told him it was the throttle body that was not the case just get your ecu rebuilt shouldn't have to reflash key unless they send you a whole new unit which we ended up having to do and then had the ecu flashed to your key all said cost him $450 alot cheaper then the 2000 grand the dealership wanted for the wrong part lol