just put them on the scale

my 89 Supra spare tire 125/90/16 weight 24.4lbs

my 99 GS400 Full size comes with Stock alloy weight 47.8lbs

btw GS FONZy

1. Do you or Have you ever really been at the track? really.

2. Do you even have or use a lighter spare tire? Have you weighed anything for the purposes of track use? Have you ever Weighed a spare tire 17 or 16?
Do you have a supra spare tire?

3. Do you understand Rotational Inertia?

4. Do you understand Power to Weight Ratio?

please if you have been or are well versed at the track then you would understand all 13 Tips that I have provided to SFGS. He doesn't seem to be in the category of understanding the benefits of an "external wastegate, Big20G, with a modded flapper..etc."

He has a GS300 it will be tough to gain 30HP without a turbo or SC.

the only way to give him power to weight advatage is to lower his weight.

1. Run down the street with nothing in your hands.
2. Now run down the street with your Floor mats, Full size spare tire, the Metal Jack/metal 19mm wrench, and a Barry Manilow CD on your back.

Tell me which time will be fastest.

at the track I run a 2G DSM Talon Turbo AWD 16G ported 34mm flapper I know about turbos. $30 1gBOV crushed + $8 Manual Boost Controller at 9 psi of boost = 13.85

I did remove 1 Barry Manilow CD, 4 Floor mats, 1 Full Size spare tire, 1 Metal jack/wrench. Best $38 ever spent.

Btw GS FONZy

Please continue to discuss the 13 low budget tips that I have provided for SFGS.

 

try to read before you give advise, that way you can stay on track about what you are talking about. i will give you a few minutes to re-read what SFGS was asking. hopefully this time it sinks in

not once did he mention hitting the track. yes, i have hit the track before and no i don't gut my car just to gain a tenth of a second. i can show you my time slips if you want
for track use; removing spare, jack, ect... does makes sence, but once again not relevant here and you realy don't help your ETs by that much just removing spare, jack and a 3oz CD you must shave 100lb or gain about 15-30hp to drop about a 10th of your ET. Oh yeah, i have a spare tt wheel and it feels a lot heavier than my stock 16 maybe because it's steel. my spare tt weighs 38lbs but i needed to clear bbk.
btw, how is removing stuff from your car be the best $38 spent

 

My engine was pretty much BONE stock until I installed the turbo. I think that money would be better spent towards a turbo/supercharger setup or at least saving up for one Trust me...I know!

I believe in doing it right the first time. I kept having an itch to do headers and SRT intake when I was still NA, but I'm glad that I didnt. I mean whats the point of doing all these NA mods when you're eventually going to upgrade anyway? You're kinda shooting yourself in the foot because most of the NA mods will be useless once you boost.

Then again most people aren't looking to make big power...so if that's you then disregard my post

 

If you want to add 10-30 hp the best mod will be an Srt intake. It will get you around 20hp at the wheels. Everything else is going to be negligible. An exhaust will gain you some but mostly in the 5-8hp range if that, but it also add quite a bit to noise and is a decent chuck of change if you get anything decent.

Bang for the buck you wont beat the Srt intake for hp gains (roughly $450 shipped). Next best mod (but quite a bit more $$$) would be to do a Precision torque convertor, that will make big gains in acceleration but it's alot more than the intake (roughly 900 for the convertor then another 200-300 for installation)

Btw- I would do a thourough search about torquemaster plugs before I put them in my car. Do yourself a favor and google them, you will find many people who have had bad experiences with them as well as a number of them disintigrating and destroying peoples engines. Your best bet would be going with a proven plug like the Denso or Ngk Iridium.

 

1. He gains weight with new audio equipment.
My advice: Drop some current weight in the car.

2. It would be on the High$$ side for him to go the route of boost.
My advice: Get his car running in the best shape possible (fluids, etc)+
CAI + Exhaust + NGKs + light weight rims = better performance.

SFGS needed some advice on performance. He can do some searches on the topics that I have discussed and come to some conclusions and choices.

or listen to posts from guys like GS FONZy that shoot in and make wise cracks about other peoples intention to help you out in the forum.

 

1. The law of physics must be wrong: Horsepower to Weight ratios

2. a 10th off the 1/4 mile really doesn't make a difference

 

1. light weight 16 rims. Tire rack will help 15-17lb light
2. CAI...SRT...check the GS for sale posts
3. New Exhaust: Apexi WSII,Tanabe, Carson Tuned...Borla is nice...
4. Remove your Full size spare IF YOU WISH
5. Take out all needless weight in the car IF YOU WISH
6. Tranny Flush (not drain and fill) the Full Tranny Flush Toyota Type IV
7. Rear Diff fluid change...DIY bannana GS website...if available
8. Royal Purple or Amsoil
9. Throttle boddy cleaning...(2.99 can of heaven)
10. BG44K in the tank
11. Fresh set of plugs
12. 225/50/16s lower profile+light weight tires 20-22 lbs,(load rating 91-94)
13. Braille light weight battery

I have edited tips #4 and #5 because of the helpful information provided by GS FONzy.

good luck SFGS

 

FI is the way to go

 

I hope ur just joking LOL

 

honestly, i am sorry if my comment bothered you, but i honestly though that it was funny. you said revome a Berry (something) CD, floor mats, ect... common, the guy is asking what will be the best way to get some extra hp. i dought he wants to strip his car. if we were talking about improving ETs, than you are 100% correct on removing everything from your car.
the spare tire comment, i completly for got about the mkiii. since mkvi has the same spare wheel for both NA and TT, i thought that's what you were talking about. like i said this wheel weighs 38lbs and feels heavier than my stock 16.

 

now, these are wise cracks and funny too. no wonder SFGS never posted here since his question

 

no prob.

however...I think SFGS might never post again.

...I was worried that the Barry Manilow "mod" might confuse him...

 

LMAO, Im new here, and ive read this whole post, the gs is not exactly what you call a light car and the Hp to weight ratio is not its prime, you can make it quicker and a little faster, but dont expect to take out Evos any time soon, as the way of making Hp, go with power programmer lighter pulleys, intake (diy, or SRT your choice) and exhaust, that should get you off the line a little quicker, but other than that just do a full Aristo conversion then youll have that Evo killing power

 

If you are worried about money dont bother with pulleys, they wont do anything. A power programmer (like something from hypertech i assume is being mentioned) really wont do much either. You would be better off getting an intake and piggyback fuel computer like an Afc then having it dynoed/tuned..or you could buy the Srt intake which comes with a pretuned piggyback for the intake and skip the dyno tuning part.

 

don't forget the electrical impact of adding a sound system. if you have normal halogen bulbs and you like to run your fogs at night - you're consuming a total of 220 watts (55x4) just by running your lights. you'll get the dimming when the bass hits if you have a serious system.

throw in some HID lows and fogs and you'll cut down your power consumption to 140 total.

good luck.