GS300 Starter Replacement
Rookie
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: AZ
Those two bolts going through the transmission are the only two holding the starter in. To make it slightly easier to get to them, you undo the transmission crossmember bolts. Be sure to have a jack under the transmission.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: fl
edit, holy crap, ok so i know the 2 bolts, have to use a small extension to reach the lower bolt, man that thing is way on tight.. ugh, i dont even know if i can do it.
Last edited by unreal1171; Oct 13, 2013 at 01:41 PM.
Driver
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Southern, MS
I appreciate everyone who wrote this procedure on replacing the starter. I just got through pulling my starter. I cleaned my contacts and connections and re-installed it. I am doing this until my new starter comes in from Amazon (TYC reman., $85 shipped with no core charge).
I just wanted to mention some things that I did so maybe they will help the next guy. First, I was able to get the starter off and out without separating the exhaust or lowering the transmission. Also I only used hand tools. As a reminder, there is a small wire that connects/plugs in right above the starter wire that has to be disconnected. I was able to loosen the lower starter bolt with an angled 14 mm closed end wrench. Once it was loose I used a ratchet with some extensions and a U joint to finish. On the top bolt, I used a socket with an impact swivel joint and lots of extensions (2 long ext. & 1 short). The thing you really have to be careful of is rounding off bolts. Make sure you have the proper tools and be sure the socket is on straight! Once I got both bolts loose, I left them in their holes in the transmission. I then weaved the starter out.
When I put it back in, I had to hold the starter in place with one hand and thread the bottom bolt in with the other hand. Next, I made sure the starter was aligned right, then I slightly snugged the bottom bolt with a ratchet. I then started threading the top bolt by hand using an extension, swivel and socket only. Once I was sure it was threaded right, I tightened it with the ratchet / extension combo.
I hope this helps,
Gears
I just wanted to mention some things that I did so maybe they will help the next guy. First, I was able to get the starter off and out without separating the exhaust or lowering the transmission. Also I only used hand tools. As a reminder, there is a small wire that connects/plugs in right above the starter wire that has to be disconnected. I was able to loosen the lower starter bolt with an angled 14 mm closed end wrench. Once it was loose I used a ratchet with some extensions and a U joint to finish. On the top bolt, I used a socket with an impact swivel joint and lots of extensions (2 long ext. & 1 short). The thing you really have to be careful of is rounding off bolts. Make sure you have the proper tools and be sure the socket is on straight! Once I got both bolts loose, I left them in their holes in the transmission. I then weaved the starter out.
When I put it back in, I had to hold the starter in place with one hand and thread the bottom bolt in with the other hand. Next, I made sure the starter was aligned right, then I slightly snugged the bottom bolt with a ratchet. I then started threading the top bolt by hand using an extension, swivel and socket only. Once I was sure it was threaded right, I tightened it with the ratchet / extension combo.
I hope this helps,
Gears
Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: The Hague
The last post is very useful and might save you time!
I already drove weeks with this intermittend starting problem. Only when engine was cold, so the first start of the day. I was planning to rebuild the starter and already bought the parts. But I found that cleaning the connection of the positive wire (the one on the bottom of the starter) fixed the problem! As suggested by others.
So if you want to save time you might by lucky (?) by cleaning this connection.
I'm very happy, in all it took me 10 minutes!
I already drove weeks with this intermittend starting problem. Only when engine was cold, so the first start of the day. I was planning to rebuild the starter and already bought the parts. But I found that cleaning the connection of the positive wire (the one on the bottom of the starter) fixed the problem! As suggested by others.
So if you want to save time you might by lucky (?) by cleaning this connection.
I'm very happy, in all it took me 10 minutes!
Driver
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 89
Likes: 2
From: Ca
Did mine a few weeks ago I took pictures too if anyone needs them. I bought some contacts from an alternator/starter rebuilding shop in San Diego cost me $5.00 each. Didnt want to buy a new starter so I rebuilt using brand new contacts which cost me $10 and my labor vs atleast $130 for a rebuilt starter. The solenoid was $50 at Toyota but didnt end up using it. If you guys need pics and instructions just PM me. My previous starter would click and wouldnt turn over and sometimes would stay on and engaged even after I stopped starting it. Maybe you guys had similar symptoms, if so replace the two contacts in the starter and the solenoid if need be.
No interest is what I'm assuming lol.
I can do a writeup with pictures, but it seems like not so many people DIY on these cars to that level. Most guys here will do basic stuff like intakes, exhaust, lights, body panels, etc. But when it comes to actual engine work, most people shy away.
Honestly it's not that hard. I've had to do it 2 times already because I shattered my flex plate one time and it took out the starter with it. I replaced my starter a second time when I realized that the broken flexplate was killing the starter lol. I'll do a quick written guide below.
Tools needed:
- The commonly obvious stuff like jack, and jackstands.
- 14mm and 12mm 3/8" drive sockets. Clearance is tight so 1/2" sockets might not fit.
- A second jack, you're going to use it to hold up the transmission.
- Long 3/8" extension like around 18inches or so. Or you can double up two shorter ones.
- A 3/8" universal joint or as some people call it, a wobbly.
- Air tools will make this go a LOT faster.
Steps:
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal. You don't want to be sparking down there when you're working on the starter.
2. Get under the car and undo the power cable to the starter(12mm nut). Then unclip the conector for the starter solenoid on the side of the starter.
3. Unbolt the exhaust where the header meets the mid-pipe.
4. Put jack under the transmission pan with a piece of wood on top of the jack so you don't dent the pan in. Unbolt the 4 transmission bracket bolts near the rear of the trans. Lower the jack slowly until it's just hanging there and then push it up just a hair so the engine isn't hanging too hard on the engine mounts.
5. Get the long extension, wobble joint, and put the 14mm socket on. You should now have enough clearance to reach the two starter bolts. They go in from the back of the engine where the transmission bellhousing mates to the engine.
6. After bolts are out, remove the starter and swap out to the new starter. Or you can rebuild the old starter with new brushes and contacts.
That should be it really...pretty straightforward. Just put everything back in reverse order.
I can do a writeup with pictures, but it seems like not so many people DIY on these cars to that level. Most guys here will do basic stuff like intakes, exhaust, lights, body panels, etc. But when it comes to actual engine work, most people shy away.
Honestly it's not that hard. I've had to do it 2 times already because I shattered my flex plate one time and it took out the starter with it. I replaced my starter a second time when I realized that the broken flexplate was killing the starter lol. I'll do a quick written guide below.
Tools needed:
- The commonly obvious stuff like jack, and jackstands.
- 14mm and 12mm 3/8" drive sockets. Clearance is tight so 1/2" sockets might not fit.
- A second jack, you're going to use it to hold up the transmission.
- Long 3/8" extension like around 18inches or so. Or you can double up two shorter ones.
- A 3/8" universal joint or as some people call it, a wobbly.
- Air tools will make this go a LOT faster.
Steps:
1. Disconnect negative battery terminal. You don't want to be sparking down there when you're working on the starter.
2. Get under the car and undo the power cable to the starter(12mm nut). Then unclip the conector for the starter solenoid on the side of the starter.
3. Unbolt the exhaust where the header meets the mid-pipe.
4. Put jack under the transmission pan with a piece of wood on top of the jack so you don't dent the pan in. Unbolt the 4 transmission bracket bolts near the rear of the trans. Lower the jack slowly until it's just hanging there and then push it up just a hair so the engine isn't hanging too hard on the engine mounts.
5. Get the long extension, wobble joint, and put the 14mm socket on. You should now have enough clearance to reach the two starter bolts. They go in from the back of the engine where the transmission bellhousing mates to the engine.
6. After bolts are out, remove the starter and swap out to the new starter. Or you can rebuild the old starter with new brushes and contacts.
That should be it really...pretty straightforward. Just put everything back in reverse order.
JEFF, HOPE YOU SEE THIS!!!!
6 years ago I towed the car 1.5 hours to the dealer and paid $550 for a new starter. Trying to avoid that this time. Anyone have any alternatives to reaching the top bolt on the starter?
I followed all of the instructions above, but can't get it off. My tranny only dropped about an inch after unbolting the mount. It gave me room to get the socket on but I can't get it off. It's slipped a couple times and I don't won't to round the bolt off.
I tried the universal joint at the end and between a 5" and 10" extension and I just can't get leverage on the bolt. About to head to lowes for some more extensions so I can try to reach it from behind the transmission mount. Any advice would be appreciated.
ClubLexus Stories
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
10 Lexus Bargains That are Cheaper Than a New Toyota RAV4
Joe Kucinski
8 Weirdest Things Lexus Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
10 Lexus Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
8 Tips for Improving Your Hybrid or Plug-in Hybrid's Efficiency!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Best Lexus Models No One Remembers
Joe Kucinski
TRD Off-Road Premium: Best 2026 4Runner, Except This One Thing
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Lexus & Toyotas to Drive Before You Die!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Lexus/Toyotas With The LEAST 5-Year Depreciation
Joe Kucinski
Lexus LC500 Convertible Auction: A Preview of Rising Values?
Brett Foote
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 690
Likes: 25
From: South Austin, Texas
You don't need to drop the tranny or anything else. The starter is pretty straight forward, you can access all the bolts from right below the driver wheel well. You will need a few extensions and a swivel. You can do it!
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 690
Likes: 25
From: South Austin, Texas
Copy this link in your browser...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=664237&styleid=13
So thank goodness I got it off today. For anyone wondering, I ended up using a standard size ratchet, two 10 inch extensions, a swivel at the very end, and a 14 mm deep socket to loosen the top bolt. I had to literally point the ratchet straight up towards the sky and turn the swivel 90 degrees into the bolt head.
I put the new contacts in the starter and had 2 auto-parts stores test it. They both said it was good. Hopefully it is because last time I brought my brother's starter to Autozone they told me it was good but it wasn't.
I put the new contacts in the starter and had 2 auto-parts stores test it. They both said it was good. Hopefully it is because last time I brought my brother's starter to Autozone they told me it was good but it wasn't.
