alright, so my car will IDLE by itself now when it's warming up (when it's cold it idles around 500RPM... what does that mean? i just have to adjust my throttle body cable right? has nothing to do with fuel or anything, correct?

i'm plannin' on doing this:

re-adjust the throttle body cable
fix another oil leak i found
unhook the SAF-C II
reset my ECU
put in the PLX Wideband + EGT Kit
put in Blitz Turbo Timer + Boost Gauge
complete fluids service (flush + refill)
clean MAF sensor

that's all i can think of at the moment.. anyone else have suggestions?

also, does anyone know if i need a vacuum line hooked up to my BOV? 'cause it's constantly blowing off and people are tellin' me it's not supposed to do that, and when i drive, you can't hear it unless i floor it and then let go of the gas and even then it's quiet. suggestions?

 

Umm, yea, you need a vacuum line hooked up to your bov or else nothing is going to keep it closed under boost except for the spring. Did you have a shop install this setup? If they didnt hook up a vacuum line to your bov it doesnt sound like they have a clue.

 

what vacuum line hooks up to the BOV? and which hole so i put the vacuum line up to? there's 2 on the BOV and there isn't any spare ones that i haven't used up?!

 

yes the shop installed the set up but the instructions dont' say anything about a vacuum line going to the BOV and we have no extra vacuum lines that could go to the BOV..

 

Just "T" off another vacuum line from an existing one.

 

What are you using a turbo timer for?

Jonny

 

HI98GS - does it matter which vacuum line i "T" off of?

jonny - since the vortech is centrifical (or whatever) they said it'd be best to have a turbo timer to cool it down.. so i said, hey can't hurt lol. does it hurt to have one or is it bad to?