Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Lexus IS Engine and Powertrain Guides
- Lexus IS GS: How to Replace Oxygen Sensor
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Lexus IS Engine and Powertrain Guides
D.I.Y. Oxygen Sensor Replacement
#76
Driver School Candidate
Hey guys. I own a 2001 Gs300 with 64K miles and I just recently had my check engine light
come on so I took it to the Lexus dealership. They ran a diagnostic test and found the one of my oxygen sensors was out. The Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor to be exact. I then asked how much for the part and labor
and was quoted $400 here in Houston. I found it hard to believe it could be that expensive and that hard
to do. I found the part on oxygensensors.com to be the cheapest @ $110 with shipping and the
oxygen sensor removal tool. This job took about 30 minutes to complete. This is how I was able to change the sensor so here it goes:
1) Locate sensor (this one is for the Bank 2 Sensor 2)
2) Raise car - i used a floor jack and lifted up the front passenger side and put a stand under the front suspension just in case the jack fell.
3) Spray some lubricant around connection of sensor, I used WD-40, to help loosen.
4) Using the oxygen sensor removal socket I then loosened the bad sensor and removed it completely from original position.
5) I then lowered the car in order to follow the sensor cable inside the car under the passenger floorboard carpet.
6) First remove plastic piece on passenger side door railing.
7) Then I pulled the carpet back just far enough to see where the O2 sensor came into the car and where it was connected. It feels like the carpet doesn't want to go the way you want it too, like it won't go back into position but it all goes back just how it was very easily. Don't worry. Just don't force anything too hard.
8) Disconnect sensor from plug. Pull gasket from floor board that is keeping it air and water tight around wiring.
9) Wrap tape, I used painters tape, around new sensor in order to protect it from hitting the ground as you feed the new sensor through the floor board. I was told these sensors are very delicate and you don't want them slapping the pavement as you feed it through the floor. Don't hook the wire harness up yet. You have to twist the sensor back into place so if the connect the wire harness you twist the wires pretty badly.
10) Raise car back into place.
11) Put the seize-all that is provided with sensor on the threads.
12) Screw sensor back into original position. Careful not to cross thread. You have to have it lined up just right for it to screw on just right.
13) Lower car.
14) Connect wire harness back.
15) Put gasket back into original position.
16) Put carpet back into original position
17) Put plastic door molding back.
18) I then disconnected the negative terminal from the battery in order to reset ECU. Waited 30 min.
19) Reconnect terminal and you are done.
Not a very hard job at all and I am no where close to being a mechanic. I just couldn't see spending that much on just an O2 sensor. Hope this helps.
come on so I took it to the Lexus dealership. They ran a diagnostic test and found the one of my oxygen sensors was out. The Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor to be exact. I then asked how much for the part and labor
and was quoted $400 here in Houston. I found it hard to believe it could be that expensive and that hard
to do. I found the part on oxygensensors.com to be the cheapest @ $110 with shipping and the
oxygen sensor removal tool. This job took about 30 minutes to complete. This is how I was able to change the sensor so here it goes:
1) Locate sensor (this one is for the Bank 2 Sensor 2)
2) Raise car - i used a floor jack and lifted up the front passenger side and put a stand under the front suspension just in case the jack fell.
3) Spray some lubricant around connection of sensor, I used WD-40, to help loosen.
4) Using the oxygen sensor removal socket I then loosened the bad sensor and removed it completely from original position.
5) I then lowered the car in order to follow the sensor cable inside the car under the passenger floorboard carpet.
6) First remove plastic piece on passenger side door railing.
7) Then I pulled the carpet back just far enough to see where the O2 sensor came into the car and where it was connected. It feels like the carpet doesn't want to go the way you want it too, like it won't go back into position but it all goes back just how it was very easily. Don't worry. Just don't force anything too hard.
8) Disconnect sensor from plug. Pull gasket from floor board that is keeping it air and water tight around wiring.
9) Wrap tape, I used painters tape, around new sensor in order to protect it from hitting the ground as you feed the new sensor through the floor board. I was told these sensors are very delicate and you don't want them slapping the pavement as you feed it through the floor. Don't hook the wire harness up yet. You have to twist the sensor back into place so if the connect the wire harness you twist the wires pretty badly.
10) Raise car back into place.
11) Put the seize-all that is provided with sensor on the threads.
12) Screw sensor back into original position. Careful not to cross thread. You have to have it lined up just right for it to screw on just right.
13) Lower car.
14) Connect wire harness back.
15) Put gasket back into original position.
16) Put carpet back into original position
17) Put plastic door molding back.
18) I then disconnected the negative terminal from the battery in order to reset ECU. Waited 30 min.
19) Reconnect terminal and you are done.
Not a very hard job at all and I am no where close to being a mechanic. I just couldn't see spending that much on just an O2 sensor. Hope this helps.
#78
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: KS
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Torque O2 readings?
I'm not sure what the o2 sensors should show when everything is functioning properly. P0420 code indicates bank 1 has an issue, and my 1x2 sensor barely moves, where the 2x2 sensor bounces around like crazy. Does this mean i need to replace the 1x2 sensor? Torque lite screenshots below. Car was warmed up and at idle. Im new here, so i apologize if i posted this tip the wrong thread.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Thanks in advance for your help!
#79
Driver School Candidate
'99 gs300 with 230k on it and this DIY made replacing bank 1 sensor 2 a breeze ~ 20 mins. Bank 2 sensor 1 location was a bear to get to and work on, but the money I saved and having my niece interested in seeing work being done on a car made it worth it. This thread is the gift that keeps on giving. thanks.
#81
Driver School Candidate
Hey guys, so I’m looking at doing mine, I have a mate who works at Toyota/Lexus and he’s quoted me $1000NZD and that there’s only 3 sensors. He’s sent me a picture of his computer with the diagram pulled up. Can anyone shed some light?? The part numbers seems to be 89465 but from my searches there seems to be another 5 digit code after that (I’m trying to find cheaper)
This is the Toyota diagram.
This is the Toyota diagram.
#84
Driver School Candidate
Just became a member today and wanted to say thank you for the write up. I just replaced mine with a DENSO sensor based on these instructions. I'm waiting for my ECU to reset as I type this. Hopefully the code clears
#86
Driver School Candidate
So far it seemed to be a success! I replaced the gas cap too as I was getting evap code. I took it out for a drive no CEL anymore! Hopefully it stays off. Between this forum and YOUTUBE, it saved me hundreds. Thanks again
The following users liked this post:
813GS3 (02-08-20)
#88
Driver School Candidate
Update - I purchased them off the denso products.com site and saved about $600 compared to the local market here I New Zealand. Also don’t be an idiot like me and not check the pictures, there’s two listed for post cat and I accidentally bought the wrong one so had to buy another. The one required is the long one with the bung on it. So it pays to check what you’re buying hahah!
#89
Hey guys. I own a 2001 Gs300 with 64K miles and I just recently had my check engine light
come on so I took it to the Lexus dealership. They ran a diagnostic test and found the one of my oxygen sensors was out. The Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor to be exact. I then asked how much for the part and labor
and was quoted $400 here in Houston. I found it hard to believe it could be that expensive and that hard
to do. I found the part on oxygensensors.com to be the cheapest @ $110 with shipping and the
oxygen sensor removal tool. This job took about 30 minutes to complete. This is how I was able to change the sensor so here it goes:
1) Locate sensor (this one is for the Bank 2 Sensor 2)
2) Raise car - i used a floor jack and lifted up the front passenger side and put a stand under the front suspension just in case the jack fell.
3) Spray some lubricant around connection of sensor, I used WD-40, to help loosen.
4) Using the oxygen sensor removal socket I then loosened the bad sensor and removed it completely from original position.
5) I then lowered the car in order to follow the sensor cable inside the car under the passenger floorboard carpet.
6) First remove plastic piece on passenger side door railing.
7) Then I pulled the carpet back just far enough to see where the O2 sensor came into the car and where it was connected. It feels like the carpet doesn't want to go the way you want it too, like it won't go back into position but it all goes back just how it was very easily. Don't worry. Just don't force anything too hard.
8) Disconnect sensor from plug. Pull gasket from floor board that is keeping it air and water tight around wiring.
9) Wrap tape, I used painters tape, around new sensor in order to protect it from hitting the ground as you feed the new sensor through the floor board. I was told these sensors are very delicate and you don't want them slapping the pavement as you feed it through the floor. Don't hook the wire harness up yet. You have to twist the sensor back into place so if the connect the wire harness you twist the wires pretty badly.
10) Raise car back into place.
11) Put the seize-all that is provided with sensor on the threads.
12) Screw sensor back into original position. Careful not to cross thread. You have to have it lined up just right for it to screw on just right.
13) Lower car.
14) Connect wire harness back.
15) Put gasket back into original position.
16) Put carpet back into original position
17) Put plastic door molding back.
18) I then disconnected the negative terminal from the battery in order to reset ECU. Waited 30 min.
19) Reconnect terminal and you are done.
Not a very hard job at all and I am no where close to being a mechanic. I just couldn't see spending that much on just an O2 sensor. Hope this helps.
come on so I took it to the Lexus dealership. They ran a diagnostic test and found the one of my oxygen sensors was out. The Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor to be exact. I then asked how much for the part and labor
and was quoted $400 here in Houston. I found it hard to believe it could be that expensive and that hard
to do. I found the part on oxygensensors.com to be the cheapest @ $110 with shipping and the
oxygen sensor removal tool. This job took about 30 minutes to complete. This is how I was able to change the sensor so here it goes:
1) Locate sensor (this one is for the Bank 2 Sensor 2)
2) Raise car - i used a floor jack and lifted up the front passenger side and put a stand under the front suspension just in case the jack fell.
3) Spray some lubricant around connection of sensor, I used WD-40, to help loosen.
4) Using the oxygen sensor removal socket I then loosened the bad sensor and removed it completely from original position.
5) I then lowered the car in order to follow the sensor cable inside the car under the passenger floorboard carpet.
6) First remove plastic piece on passenger side door railing.
7) Then I pulled the carpet back just far enough to see where the O2 sensor came into the car and where it was connected. It feels like the carpet doesn't want to go the way you want it too, like it won't go back into position but it all goes back just how it was very easily. Don't worry. Just don't force anything too hard.
8) Disconnect sensor from plug. Pull gasket from floor board that is keeping it air and water tight around wiring.
9) Wrap tape, I used painters tape, around new sensor in order to protect it from hitting the ground as you feed the new sensor through the floor board. I was told these sensors are very delicate and you don't want them slapping the pavement as you feed it through the floor. Don't hook the wire harness up yet. You have to twist the sensor back into place so if the connect the wire harness you twist the wires pretty badly.
10) Raise car back into place.
11) Put the seize-all that is provided with sensor on the threads.
12) Screw sensor back into original position. Careful not to cross thread. You have to have it lined up just right for it to screw on just right.
13) Lower car.
14) Connect wire harness back.
15) Put gasket back into original position.
16) Put carpet back into original position
17) Put plastic door molding back.
18) I then disconnected the negative terminal from the battery in order to reset ECU. Waited 30 min.
19) Reconnect terminal and you are done.
Not a very hard job at all and I am no where close to being a mechanic. I just couldn't see spending that much on just an O2 sensor. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the write up!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ayroman
ES - 1st to 4th Gen (1990-2006)
12
12-04-23 03:00 PM
jacobzking
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
2
03-06-08 06:39 AM