I'm really upset no one has managed to clearly write a clear and thorough DIY thread dedicated to this job. Yes I know there are several threads going over the basics of it on Lextreme, but there are many many gaps. I'll reply to this post with a complete guide. Once I am finished with the project myself.


Anyways I'll vent here because its been two days and I've just taken it out.. with all the fuel connectors clips snapped, missing a couple bolts, starter connector snapped, new starter motor has a different connector. Tragic. So went from a one job to possibly four to five day.

 

Good luck with this, when i had my iuz replaced with a low mileage unit doing the starter was my mechanics biggest issue, i went through 2 aftermarket ones that were a centimeter off and wouldnt fit, we finally found a remaned oem starter that fit, but the car sat several extra weeks with the motor torn apart while i dealt with returns. What brand starter did you get?

 

Thank you. Initially I went with DENSO (remanufactured) since I heard they were OE manufacturers, I accidently bought the starter motor that is made for MAY95&^ , when my vehicle was made before.

The starter bolts were a bit difficult to get too but I believe it is a time thing for me and the angle you are working in the car that starts to bug you.

Correct model motor comes in today so hopefully I can put everything back together. I don't know why there wasn't much word on that. Guess I need to pay attention more.

 

Good luck Slackful! Let us know how it goes. This is something on my car that I've been worried about for years. Mine's a '94 with 263K miles and it occasionally takes 2-3 key turns to get it to crank when it's hot. It's been doing that for over 15 years now. I can't imagine tackling this job with all the old hoses and plastic connectors involved (as you say)! I did see an interesting video on YouTube for a '93 LS400 where the guy took the starter apart on the car to give him room to get the coolant pipe out. He cut a slot in the tips of the starter mounting bolts using a Dremel tool and backed them out with a screw driver after breaking the bolts loose from the firewall side. He then drilled out the threads in the starter mounting holes on the new starter, took that one apart (like the old one) and installed it with bolts from the front of the starter and nuts on the rear. He then reinstalled the coolant pipe and then the starter armature. Still sounds like a PIA no matter how you do it!

 

Just want to note that I have completed the job, but due to my lack of carelessness, the job has been extended from 1day to 1WK+.

*PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW STARTER.* The less ***** you break the easier this will be..

As I was hammering in the starter for a flush seating, my hammer accidentally broke one of the knock sensors on the driver's side. FML. It proceeds to throw a Code 52. Had to replace the sensor and the connector.

Crimped & heat shrunked the new connector to the old wire, yet it still throws a code. I'm going to go back to double check if the crimp wasn't thorough. (I pray that this is the issue.) Going to lose it if it's not, that means I'll have to scavenge a whole new harness, something at this particular moment I don't have time for.

Wish me luck. I will still post the step by step once I have figured out my current situation.

 

FYSA, it's totally doable without removing the coolant bridge. I read that it's recommended you don't remove it. Due to the lack of sourcing parts for replacement such as the gaskets. Just use that one Harbor Freight tool mention.

I just installed the bolts in reverse when putting in the starter, hopefully making the process easier for whomever might do the job again.

The main issue for me are the connectors. So brittle. So frail. Damn this thing to hell. I might be over exaggerating, but it is a PITA. Trying to re-connect the wiring in the position your in for hours at a time is a nightmare. Especially with the limiting work space.

 

It seems like a big job but once you do it once it becomes easy. It is just time consuming. First time doing it took me about 8 hours including long breaks. Now I can do it less than 2 hours. Just like what Slakful said earlier the worst thing about it is just the age of everything plastic. That and putting everything back correctly. I emphasize this because due to that my Sc is no more. I admit I broke a few clips for the fuel injectors but I guess I didn't fasten the fuel bolt down tight enough or something. Car started up like a charm. Best that it has ever been but it also came with a Fire in the bay. Burned for a good 20-30 seconds before I could douse the engine with the hose. Now after replacing the fuel pump and fuel rail/regulators etc..car still runs super rich. Just gave up and got a new one. So lesson learned. If you need help feel free to pm me. You don't need to take the bridge off. It's just more trouble than necessary. Just hop on to Harbor Freight and grab a T-bar flexible ratchet and you're good to go. It also helps if you have small hands.

 

Sorry to hear about that Lexxi, that sounds like a nightmare. Especially since you're liable for the mistake as a DIYr.

I agree, taking off the upper manifold has become a breeze. I've been trying to fix this code within the gap of the lower plenum to prevent from taking apart the fuel lines again/injectors. I've been some what successful.

 

The more I read about this the more I DON'T want to do it! Slackful, aren't the mounting holes in the starter threaded? Didn't know it was possible to put the bolts in the other way around unless you drill out the holes in the starter ...

Lexii, sorry to hear about your troubles! What a PITA! Guess it would be good to have a fire extinguisher at the ready just in case! Geez!

 

Honestly, I just went with it. I'm not gonna jinx anything. I just made sure it was seated and firm.

 

Toyota likes to use those banjo bolts on the fuel lines and they have a crush washer on both the top and the bottom of the fitting and they are supposed to be replace only pieces, reusing can also cause a leak.
Alot of times its easy to miss that one of the 2 isn't there, they almost always fall off, roll, and completely disappear when you remove the banjo bolt, so if you don't know there was one underneath the fitting that can cause a large leak.
All 4 surfaces also need to be clean (top of rail, top and bottom on hose fitting, and the banjo bolt).
If you are going to DIY, It is always a good idea to find the service manual cause it will tell you what to replace when reinstalling.

I have heard of quite a few different builds burning down from fuel line issues, so every time I remove a fuel line on an SC (or any vehicle now), I test for leaks on a cold engine that is not running.
If you use a paperclip and jump b+ and Fp in the diagnostic connector, it will turn on the fuel pump and pressurize the rail without the engine running.
I always do that first and feel around for leaks as it is a good practice when working on any fuel components.

On the newer toyota's and I think the 2uz's if I remember right, they have a disconnect clip thing for the lines, so it's much more foolproof than the older stuff.

 

Yup definitely learned a lot from. I'm not too sure where I messed up I did reuse the washer for the banjo so that may be it but I learned from it and plus now I have a 98 1uz so I'm not too sad about it now.