Returd

I'm using POR15 and a few other magic potions for various parts. By request from another thread, I'll be posting and documenting some of my rust control measures.

I'll be doing my rear cradle soon and will fully document the process. For now here's a few pics of items I've treated so far.

Returd

Here's the heat shield that protects the dive shaft mid bearing. In all cases I give at least 2 coat POR15. Here I top coated with aluminum paint. I thought I had a spray bomb but when i looked, no joy. I dig a little deeper and found a can of aluminum paint I inherited from my father. he passed 15 years ago nd probably had it himself for 20 years. in any case, worked like a charm. I left the top of the heat shield raw POR as it's pretty slippery and water pooling will bead and run off more easily. The coated piece is beside one I pulled from my parts car. The coated one was in better shape, but not by much. Now it'll last for decades more.

Returd

Here's the front pulleys. I did the power steering pump, alternator and had cooling fan pump. I'll do the crank once i make myself a puller tool.

Returd

Here's the rear quarter panels at the bottom seam. I noticed some Minot rust at the screw mounts for the vents. I pulled the vents, wire wheeled and applied the POR. In this case I used a white POR topcoat. I'll be replacing the steel screws with satainless hardware. I snapped out the plastic plugs for the screws and will replace with some basic plastic drywall plugs for #8 screws. I'll take photos when installing so this will make more sense. On the driver side I had a small hole so i filled with POR patch. I should have smoothed it before it hardened but this was my first experience with this material. It's set now and bulletproof. Since the trim will cover it I'm not concerned.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

POR-15 is amazing stuff. I used that on one of my old differential pumpkins some years back after a lot of wire brush scrubbing and the primer undercoat. I've never thought of it for anything but heavy cast steel and cast iron parts but the under-panel painting is an interesting application.

Returd

I recently did my LS400 calipers also. I did the entire underbody of my Mustang.

It works best on raw ferrous metals, but also works on aluminum and other stuff. Religious surface prep is key.

It's also a ***** to get off skin. It has to grow off. I once spilled some on my crotch and it soaked through my pants.

Returd

I dug out a few other items I've pulled from my parts car, cleaned up and coated.

Returd

I started on the rear cradle yesterday. I originally intended to remove the suspension and take the bare cradle to a local sandblaster,but the control arm adjusting bolts are frozen in place. I resorted t wire wheel, more time consuming and less effective, but you'll see the results.

I used various size wheels/cups on my 5" grinder as well as my corded Bosch drill.

What's key, especially while using the grinder, is long sleeves, long pants, leather gloves and a face shield. The wheels wil throw air strands. When I take breaks I've usually got a dozen or more sticking out of my clothes and they are constantly hitting my face shield. A few years back i had to go to emergency to get a steel sliver out of my eye, and I had safety glasses on. Play safe.

Returd

I decreased thoroughy, applied the metal prep and then brought the assembly inside for coating. I first degrease with spray 9 (it's relatively cheap) and then went over the entire assemble a second time with POR15 degreaser which is much more aggressive and effective. I then applied the metal prep, let sit for 20 minutes and rinsed. Following the prep instructions fanatically will yield the best results. Cutting corners pretty much assures a wasted effort (and money). There's no harm in being overzealous with prep.

The first shot is the assembly suspended ready for paint with the metal prep giving the mottled color. Two coats of POR15 are recomended so I've made it a habit to use a different color for each coat. I used grey first, second nd finallayer black. The different colours makes it easy to make sure I haven't missed any spots. I also use a headlamp and flashlight it inspect as it's really easy to miss spots.

timing for applying the second coat is key. If you wait until the first coat is dry, the second coat won't adhere. Apply the second coat too early and you'll get bubbles from the off gassing from the first coat.

When properly applied it's near bullet proof. It's also very slippery so it'll stay relatively clean. Washing any grease or dirt off in a few years should also be a breeze.

Returd

While running lines I spotted a small blister under the rear wheel well trim.

I pulled the trim, wire wheeled the rusty spot, degreased, sprayed metal prep, did a first coat of POR15 black, a second coat of POR15 grey, then applied a dab of POR15 patch (black), then a coat of POR white topcoat.