JoeIntro
04-28-17, 06:29 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
JoeIntro
Figured I may as well sign up and say hi. Been lurking here a while reading up on SC's and figuring stuff out.
will be starting my search for a decent sc400 in a couple weeks. Buying early June
Pretty sure the sc400 is going to fit me pretty well I want the torque for mountain roads. I know the 2jz in the sc300 has potential for crazy power either as a NA-T or a swap to a GTE but that adds $$$$$ to the cost and complexity. If I get bored of the power in the SC400 I can get set up with a wet nitrous system but I already have my Chevy LUV as my "toy" vehicle. Getting the Lexus because it has 4 seats for my 2 kids and the handling is supposed to be great which it is not in my luv.
car will probably stay basically stock or as is for a while. Will do maintenance, timing set, filter, plugs, wires, fluids, etc etc. Will move to suspension/handling from there with bushings and such, decent tires. Then probably sway barswhilecoils once the rest is squared away.
Quick bullet points.
i dont plan on getting Soarer emblems,
i Dont plan on a 2jz swap,
I dont plan on getting ricer lights or a wing,
May do a 5 speed swap in a few years when emissions exempt (over 25 years old, 91 is exempt this year)
Just want a nice, comfortable car that handles really well and has enough power get a sideways once in a while.
will be starting my search for a decent sc400 in a couple weeks. Buying early June
Pretty sure the sc400 is going to fit me pretty well I want the torque for mountain roads. I know the 2jz in the sc300 has potential for crazy power either as a NA-T or a swap to a GTE but that adds $$$$$ to the cost and complexity. If I get bored of the power in the SC400 I can get set up with a wet nitrous system but I already have my Chevy LUV as my "toy" vehicle. Getting the Lexus because it has 4 seats for my 2 kids and the handling is supposed to be great which it is not in my luv.
car will probably stay basically stock or as is for a while. Will do maintenance, timing set, filter, plugs, wires, fluids, etc etc. Will move to suspension/handling from there with bushings and such, decent tires. Then probably sway barswhilecoils once the rest is squared away.
Quick bullet points.
i dont plan on getting Soarer emblems,
i Dont plan on a 2jz swap,
I dont plan on getting ricer lights or a wing,
May do a 5 speed swap in a few years when emissions exempt (over 25 years old, 91 is exempt this year)
Just want a nice, comfortable car that handles really well and has enough power get a sideways once in a while.
04-28-17, 06:41 PM
#4
Sounds like you got a good plan in mind. Do the maintenance first and make a solid car before throwing aftermarket stuff on it and "modding it". These days, sadly, it seems it's the other way around. Too many people mod their cars before having a reliable and solid platform.
04-28-17, 06:51 PM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks. Seems like the way to go, other way you end up with a body kitted driveway ornament when you snap a timing belt two months after buying it. My LUV I did the other way when I was 20. Don't want to repeat that, as much as i love my luv it is so damn impractical to use for much but fun.
the list I do know so far I am pretty sure I want is
LS400 brakes, 250/350IS wheels (unless I buy one with wheels I can live with), good tires, Supra coils, and thicker sway bars. Beyond that I am still up in the air. I can never leave well enough alone so eventually more will probably come. The SC sounds like an awesome platform to start with being so similar to a supra.
the list I do know so far I am pretty sure I want is
LS400 brakes, 250/350IS wheels (unless I buy one with wheels I can live with), good tires, Supra coils, and thicker sway bars. Beyond that I am still up in the air. I can never leave well enough alone so eventually more will probably come. The SC sounds like an awesome platform to start with being so similar to a supra.
04-28-17, 06:58 PM
#6
LS400 brakes are an absolute must. Hands down the best and cheapest mod to the car that truly improves the performance and makes the car more enjoyable to drive and push harder. Check the upper and lower control arm bushings to make sure they are in good shape.
Definitely get a 5spd manual if going SC300 (trust me, the stock autos are not fun unless you are just into comfortable cruising around).
If you're set on a SC400, I would highly recommend the 98+ for all its upgrades. Night and day difference compared to the older non vvti models (which are still great in their own right dont get me wrong).
Definitely get a 5spd manual if going SC300 (trust me, the stock autos are not fun unless you are just into comfortable cruising around).
If you're set on a SC400, I would highly recommend the 98+ for all its upgrades. Night and day difference compared to the older non vvti models (which are still great in their own right dont get me wrong).
04-28-17, 07:07 PM
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
LS400 brakes are an absolute must. Hands down the best and cheapest mod to the car that truly improves the performance and makes the car more enjoyable to drive and push harder. Check the upper and lower control arm bushings to make sure they are in good shape.
Definitely get a 5spd manual if going SC300 (trust me, the stock autos are not fun unless you are just into comfortable cruising around).
If you're set on a SC400, I would highly recommend the 98+ for all its upgrades. Night and day difference compared to the older non vvti models (which are still great in their own right dont get me wrong).
Definitely get a 5spd manual if going SC300 (trust me, the stock autos are not fun unless you are just into comfortable cruising around).
If you're set on a SC400, I would highly recommend the 98+ for all its upgrades. Night and day difference compared to the older non vvti models (which are still great in their own right dont get me wrong).
will see what I can find. Trying to stay in the $2500-3500 range for the car itself, The early ones locally are anywhere from 1600-4000. Will look specifically for 98-2000 and see what I can find. I know I have seen at least a couple come up. I have heard a lot of people say get the 290hp later model vs the earlier ones. And 40hp out of the box can't hurt, that'd take a lot of extra effort on a 250hp 1z
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04-28-17, 07:09 PM
#8
LS400 brakes are an absolute must. Hands down the best and cheapest mod to the car that truly improves the performance and makes the car more enjoyable to drive and push harder. Check the upper and lower control arm bushings to make sure they are in good shape.
Definitely get a 5spd manual if going SC300 (trust me, the stock autos are not fun unless you are just into comfortable cruising around).
If you're set on a SC400, I would highly recommend the 98+ for all its upgrades. Night and day difference compared to the older non vvti models (which are still great in their own right dont get me wrong).
Definitely get a 5spd manual if going SC300 (trust me, the stock autos are not fun unless you are just into comfortable cruising around).
If you're set on a SC400, I would highly recommend the 98+ for all its upgrades. Night and day difference compared to the older non vvti models (which are still great in their own right dont get me wrong).
Also, JoeBlob could manual swap a 1992-1995 SC400 somewhat affordably IF it's just the transmission change that he wants while leaving the V8 engine stock. Although it is done right out of the box with an SC300 5-speed. Mountain road torque with a naturally aspirated SC300 5-speed depends on the elevation you're at. Swapping in a 4.272:1 Auto rear end also helps for the NA I-6 driving in the mountains.
The 1998-2000 SC400 VVT-i is also a very good bet if keeping it stock and automatic (other than the front brakes) is desired.
An LSD helps these cars but you'd have to get one installed yourself as they were never a factory option in the U.S. models. It's really up to individual preference depending on the driver/owner as to whether it's worth it to them or not. It's not needed just for cruising in a totally stock SC. Much more applicable if you want controllable tail-out fun.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 04-28-17 at 07:15 PM.
04-28-17, 08:54 PM
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
^^ I agree wholeheartedly.
Also, JoeBlob could manual swap a 1992-1995 SC400 somewhat affordably IF it's just the transmission change that he wants while leaving the V8 engine stock. Although it is done right out of the box with an SC300 5-speed. Mountain road torque with a naturally aspirated SC300 5-speed depends on the elevation you're at. Swapping in a 4.272:1 Auto rear end also helps for the NA I-6 driving in the mountains.
The 1998-2000 SC400 VVT-i is also a very good bet if keeping it stock and automatic (other than the front brakes) is desired.
An LSD helps these cars but you'd have to get one installed yourself as they were never a factory option in the U.S. models. It's really up to individual preference depending on the driver/owner as to whether it's worth it to them or not. It's not needed just for cruising in a totally stock SC. Much more applicable if you want controllable tail-out fun.
Also, JoeBlob could manual swap a 1992-1995 SC400 somewhat affordably IF it's just the transmission change that he wants while leaving the V8 engine stock. Although it is done right out of the box with an SC300 5-speed. Mountain road torque with a naturally aspirated SC300 5-speed depends on the elevation you're at. Swapping in a 4.272:1 Auto rear end also helps for the NA I-6 driving in the mountains.
The 1998-2000 SC400 VVT-i is also a very good bet if keeping it stock and automatic (other than the front brakes) is desired.
An LSD helps these cars but you'd have to get one installed yourself as they were never a factory option in the U.S. models. It's really up to individual preference depending on the driver/owner as to whether it's worth it to them or not. It's not needed just for cruising in a totally stock SC. Much more applicable if you want controllable tail-out fun.
so far I have seen the setup for a Nissan 5 speed trans from behind a ka24de. I know they aren't glass weak but they aren't real strong either. Would really like to put in a supra 5 speed or a Chevy 5 speed from behind a V8 or 4.3
Last edited by JoeBlob; 04-28-17 at 09:12 PM.
04-30-17, 04:08 PM
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
Been doing a lot of reading and some video watching and found mention that the 92-94 have thicker rods and heftier pistons than the 95-2000 and hold up to boost/juice better than the later engines. Build I was just looking at was turbo and nearly 600hp on a stock 94 long block
05-01-17, 05:49 PM
#11
Joe,
I will tell you right now that unless you want to spend some serious money and get into very custom territory with not so much aftermarket support to turbocharge or supercharge an early SC400 it is better to consider an SC300's 2JZ-GE or any xJZ-GTE engine for turbocharging. Not only is the engine better designed for the job but the aftermarket support and parts availability is tremendous. If considering supercharging an SC400 engine a used Eaton M-112 roots blower with some aftermarket manifold parts from Australia (or fully custom depending on availability) is the most common approach (but still very rarely done). You would also need an aftermarket ECU and updated fuel system. Yes, the rods in 92-94 SC400 engines are the beefiest compared to rods in later 1UZ-FE's. I really don't know what to suggest about how much mileage is safe to boost with in a 1UZ depending on the condition of the rings, pistons and bearings.
You will still get better bang for the buck and better reliability doing an NA-T turbo setup on a 1992-1997 2JZ-GE engine... or with a GTE engine swap.
For manual transmissions in an SC400, I've read about the KA24DE trans swaps which have been done a few times but a 1992+ W58 is the most tried and true reliable manual gearbox option for an SC400. Also an R154 or more widely available and similar Pontiac Solstice (aka Saturn Sky) AR-5. Since the R&D and aftermarket parts support already exists for a few proven manual transmission swap options I'd stick to those to keep costs and unknown variables in perspective. Pre-1998 SC400's with 1992+ type W58's from SC's/MKIV's and stock engines are reliable and easy to service and compatible clutches and flywheels I believe are usually sourced from the 3S-GTE Toyota MR2 Turbo. Check with the swap kit manufacturers for better details.
For Torsen LSD's (T-1 type) you have '93-'98 Supra Twin Turbo Automatics for donors but you must physically open the rear carrier cover to verify that a Torsen is in there since they act like open diffs when up on the air and not under load. 1997-98 Supra TT Autos had these as options and not standard equipment so it's very normal to visually verify a Torsen is present within the differential carrier before completing a sale. These are rare and tend to go VERY fast once listed.
Some Canadian SC400's also had Torsen LSD's as options. Not sure how often these come up for sale though. Same visual verification procedure as above. Toyota Soarers had Torsen T-2's as options on some trim levels. Also rare to see for sale. Same verification procedure if not buying an entire diff pumpkin. Diff ratios for these in Soarers are usually 4.083:1.
You can also get an aftermarket 2-way LSD such as a Kaaz and have that installed. Different characteristics compared to a Torsen. Also, all Torsen LSD's for any car so equipped are gear-type and require only regular fluid changes every 30k miles. No additional maintenance.
What you seem to be looking for in an SC in terms of performance is very commonly brought up. I understand your wish not to get too complex or too heavy into cost. Turbocharging or supercharging an SC400's stock engine will do both. A manual swap, while a little involved, will not. Same with an LSD swap or LS400 front brake swap (which I agree with 97-SC300 as being near mandatory).
Turbocharging a 2JZ-GE engine or swapping in a GTE engine will add some decent cost but generally that is the way to go for more power.
I do feel that a stock engine SC300 with a 5-speed manual, an updated suspension, great tire compound on wider wheels, LS400 front brakes, an LSD, a 4.27 final drive ratio and bucket seats with side bolsters is also a very fun and not overly expensive setup when driven mostly at reasonably lower elevations. I've driven such as setup for several years now and while I would like some more power at both very high elevation and sea level I am always smiling when I drive it. Think FR-S/BRZ/GT86 level power-to-weight-ratio and acceleration with a bit more torque: not "fast" but not exactly slow either and absolutely fun and responsive to drive. I am in the process of having a stock 2JZGTE engine rebuilt which will be installed at some point but even left as-is my current 100% stock 2JZ-GE with all the other hardware is a good and reliable setup for the driving experience alone.
The same could probably be said about having *all the same things* done to a 92-97 SC400 with a 100% stock V8, a manual transmission swap (and either its stock 3.92:1 final drive or a 4.083:1 final drive) since it has slightly more power and torque. And 1UZ-FE's, while requiring maintenance and the occasional failed part repair, have amazing longevity. 2JZ-GE's do also without question but the 1UZ-FE's are renown for their long service lives and reliability.
With up to a maximum of 255mm rear tires on either setup described above (the chassis will take much more but 255mm width is the sweet spot for a balance of control/stability and easily-induced oversteer in a naturally aspirated SC) you will be able to easily kick the tail out whenever you wish to for controllable fun. Just seriously mind doing this in wet or icy conditions with a Torsen LSD since you will probably not have traction control to help you. Choose performance tires with good rain traction qualities.
If serious torque and power with forced induction are something you do find that you want I don't feel the 1UZ-FE V8 engine is the best starting point. They are the best at being extremely long lasting and versatile naturally aspirated engines. Very good if leaving them stock despite all other modifications is what will meet your needs. Not ideal if the 1UZ-FE's stock power and torque as-is will not be enough. When compared to SC300's with turbo-friendly 2JZ-GE's (or any xJZ-GTE swap into any SC300/400) it is much easier to get more power with a JZ inline six engine.
....
And by the way, nice classic you've got there in the Chevy LUV. Those are getting rare these days!
I will tell you right now that unless you want to spend some serious money and get into very custom territory with not so much aftermarket support to turbocharge or supercharge an early SC400 it is better to consider an SC300's 2JZ-GE or any xJZ-GTE engine for turbocharging. Not only is the engine better designed for the job but the aftermarket support and parts availability is tremendous. If considering supercharging an SC400 engine a used Eaton M-112 roots blower with some aftermarket manifold parts from Australia (or fully custom depending on availability) is the most common approach (but still very rarely done). You would also need an aftermarket ECU and updated fuel system. Yes, the rods in 92-94 SC400 engines are the beefiest compared to rods in later 1UZ-FE's. I really don't know what to suggest about how much mileage is safe to boost with in a 1UZ depending on the condition of the rings, pistons and bearings.
You will still get better bang for the buck and better reliability doing an NA-T turbo setup on a 1992-1997 2JZ-GE engine... or with a GTE engine swap.
For manual transmissions in an SC400, I've read about the KA24DE trans swaps which have been done a few times but a 1992+ W58 is the most tried and true reliable manual gearbox option for an SC400. Also an R154 or more widely available and similar Pontiac Solstice (aka Saturn Sky) AR-5. Since the R&D and aftermarket parts support already exists for a few proven manual transmission swap options I'd stick to those to keep costs and unknown variables in perspective. Pre-1998 SC400's with 1992+ type W58's from SC's/MKIV's and stock engines are reliable and easy to service and compatible clutches and flywheels I believe are usually sourced from the 3S-GTE Toyota MR2 Turbo. Check with the swap kit manufacturers for better details.
For Torsen LSD's (T-1 type) you have '93-'98 Supra Twin Turbo Automatics for donors but you must physically open the rear carrier cover to verify that a Torsen is in there since they act like open diffs when up on the air and not under load. 1997-98 Supra TT Autos had these as options and not standard equipment so it's very normal to visually verify a Torsen is present within the differential carrier before completing a sale. These are rare and tend to go VERY fast once listed.
Some Canadian SC400's also had Torsen LSD's as options. Not sure how often these come up for sale though. Same visual verification procedure as above. Toyota Soarers had Torsen T-2's as options on some trim levels. Also rare to see for sale. Same verification procedure if not buying an entire diff pumpkin. Diff ratios for these in Soarers are usually 4.083:1.
You can also get an aftermarket 2-way LSD such as a Kaaz and have that installed. Different characteristics compared to a Torsen. Also, all Torsen LSD's for any car so equipped are gear-type and require only regular fluid changes every 30k miles. No additional maintenance.
What you seem to be looking for in an SC in terms of performance is very commonly brought up. I understand your wish not to get too complex or too heavy into cost. Turbocharging or supercharging an SC400's stock engine will do both. A manual swap, while a little involved, will not. Same with an LSD swap or LS400 front brake swap (which I agree with 97-SC300 as being near mandatory).
Turbocharging a 2JZ-GE engine or swapping in a GTE engine will add some decent cost but generally that is the way to go for more power.
I do feel that a stock engine SC300 with a 5-speed manual, an updated suspension, great tire compound on wider wheels, LS400 front brakes, an LSD, a 4.27 final drive ratio and bucket seats with side bolsters is also a very fun and not overly expensive setup when driven mostly at reasonably lower elevations. I've driven such as setup for several years now and while I would like some more power at both very high elevation and sea level I am always smiling when I drive it. Think FR-S/BRZ/GT86 level power-to-weight-ratio and acceleration with a bit more torque: not "fast" but not exactly slow either and absolutely fun and responsive to drive. I am in the process of having a stock 2JZGTE engine rebuilt which will be installed at some point but even left as-is my current 100% stock 2JZ-GE with all the other hardware is a good and reliable setup for the driving experience alone.
The same could probably be said about having *all the same things* done to a 92-97 SC400 with a 100% stock V8, a manual transmission swap (and either its stock 3.92:1 final drive or a 4.083:1 final drive) since it has slightly more power and torque. And 1UZ-FE's, while requiring maintenance and the occasional failed part repair, have amazing longevity. 2JZ-GE's do also without question but the 1UZ-FE's are renown for their long service lives and reliability.
With up to a maximum of 255mm rear tires on either setup described above (the chassis will take much more but 255mm width is the sweet spot for a balance of control/stability and easily-induced oversteer in a naturally aspirated SC) you will be able to easily kick the tail out whenever you wish to for controllable fun. Just seriously mind doing this in wet or icy conditions with a Torsen LSD since you will probably not have traction control to help you. Choose performance tires with good rain traction qualities.
If serious torque and power with forced induction are something you do find that you want I don't feel the 1UZ-FE V8 engine is the best starting point. They are the best at being extremely long lasting and versatile naturally aspirated engines. Very good if leaving them stock despite all other modifications is what will meet your needs. Not ideal if the 1UZ-FE's stock power and torque as-is will not be enough. When compared to SC300's with turbo-friendly 2JZ-GE's (or any xJZ-GTE swap into any SC300/400) it is much easier to get more power with a JZ inline six engine.
....
And by the way, nice classic you've got there in the Chevy LUV. Those are getting rare these days!
Last edited by KahnBB6; 05-01-17 at 06:25 PM. Reason: Streamlining and grammatical correction
05-01-17, 06:15 PM
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
I dont plan on turbo or supercharger. I will likely do a wet nitrous system, Nothing extreme probably 75-125 shot. Figure i can add a 2 gallon fuel cell in the trunk with its own pump and some 110 race gas. That way everything added is independent of the stock systems and i dont hack into fuel lines or rely on stock pump pressure/flow. Race gas with the spray is probably even overkill at that level but safety margins are good with the ol laughing gas. Not worried about winning a dyno day contest I just want a car I like driving. I figure said and done I could get a good system set up with a wot switch and a window switch for around $1200
Been doing a lot of searching and you're definitely right in the trans options there are too many kits available to try and diy it. Good few, the 350z 6 speed would be a great one or the w58
Not in a huge hurry to hop on crazy upgrades once I pick one up. Will spend a while doing all of the maintenance and supporting parts first. Once it is dialed as far as stopping and handling I will start putting together the nitrous setup. My.brother works at a Mopar performance garage so he does a lot of SRT race engines and pretty wild builds so I at least have the ability to take it in for a good dyno tune with someone I trust to get it set right
And yeah the LUV is a lot of fun its got a built 4.3 v6 and 5 speed in it
Been doing a lot of searching and you're definitely right in the trans options there are too many kits available to try and diy it. Good few, the 350z 6 speed would be a great one or the w58
Not in a huge hurry to hop on crazy upgrades once I pick one up. Will spend a while doing all of the maintenance and supporting parts first. Once it is dialed as far as stopping and handling I will start putting together the nitrous setup. My.brother works at a Mopar performance garage so he does a lot of SRT race engines and pretty wild builds so I at least have the ability to take it in for a good dyno tune with someone I trust to get it set right
And yeah the LUV is a lot of fun its got a built 4.3 v6 and 5 speed in it
Last edited by JoeBlob; 05-01-17 at 06:37 PM.
05-01-17, 06:40 PM
#13
If you're planning on nitrous I would recommend skipping the W58 and going right to an R154, AR-5 or 350Z CD009 since all of those can handle additional shock-loading from a sudden surge in torque reliably for years. The W58 is reliable for a very long time on stock NA power from a 2JZ-GE or 1UZ-FE but their lifespan (duty cycle) is significantly reduced with any kind of forced induction or power adder that causes a sudden surge in torque. People's mileage varies even in turbo applications with W58's but even with careful driving and shifting that gearbox was designed to be reliable with NA power. Those other gearbox options were designed with boost and much higher torque in mind.
Even with the 1998-2000 SC400 VVT-i's which produce 290hp/300tq stock (with much thinner/weaker rods and thinner piston rings) it is a better idea to forego the W58 and go with a stronger manual transmission for the ultimate longevity of the gearbox. Aside though most people leave '98-'00 SC400's stock wth their 5-speed automatics.
I'm not well versed in 1UZ-FE's to suggest much if you are planning to use nitrous and race gas. Check out the websites Lextreme, Driftmotion and Xcessive Manufacturing for a lot of main support components. Also CX Racing for transmission cross-members that work with MKIII R154's in SC's. Lextreme especially deals with 1UZ-FE upgrade parts. I'm not educated enough on the toughness of 1UZ-FE piston rings but you may want to research what others have encountered with their nitrous setups on SC400's. I'm not into nitrous myself but I know others here can offer more astute advice and specifics in that department.
Starting out by getting the car handling and stopping well for control is the right way to begin. You're on the right track. I would include sorting the transmission swap in that stage before touching your fuel system. Just keep in mind that 1UZ-FE's don't generally respond as easily to power modifications as do 2JZ-GE's. They are VERY reliable engines with decent power and torque but they do not make more power easily like the Ford 302/5.0, Ford 4.6, Ford Coyote, GM LS, or any number of Mopar engines from the 60's-present. A few people have interesting results running an ITB setup on a 1UZ-FE though... though usually when swapping those engines into older 70's-80's Toyotas that are much lighter than an SC.
I recommended switching to bucket seats with side bolsters because... well... once you drive one of these cars on curvy mountain roads with a dialed in suspension that has little or no body roll and an LSD you will understand. The stock seats are stylish, comfortable and have nice memory position settings but they will not hold you in on the curves when body roll is near eliminated. A direct bolt-in with very minimal wiring changes are Supra MKIV seats which look like they could have been a factory option in an SC. S2000 seats are also popular. RX8 seats also. Then there are many aftermarket seat options.
Even with the 1998-2000 SC400 VVT-i's which produce 290hp/300tq stock (with much thinner/weaker rods and thinner piston rings) it is a better idea to forego the W58 and go with a stronger manual transmission for the ultimate longevity of the gearbox. Aside though most people leave '98-'00 SC400's stock wth their 5-speed automatics.
I'm not well versed in 1UZ-FE's to suggest much if you are planning to use nitrous and race gas. Check out the websites Lextreme, Driftmotion and Xcessive Manufacturing for a lot of main support components. Also CX Racing for transmission cross-members that work with MKIII R154's in SC's. Lextreme especially deals with 1UZ-FE upgrade parts. I'm not educated enough on the toughness of 1UZ-FE piston rings but you may want to research what others have encountered with their nitrous setups on SC400's. I'm not into nitrous myself but I know others here can offer more astute advice and specifics in that department.
Starting out by getting the car handling and stopping well for control is the right way to begin. You're on the right track. I would include sorting the transmission swap in that stage before touching your fuel system. Just keep in mind that 1UZ-FE's don't generally respond as easily to power modifications as do 2JZ-GE's. They are VERY reliable engines with decent power and torque but they do not make more power easily like the Ford 302/5.0, Ford 4.6, Ford Coyote, GM LS, or any number of Mopar engines from the 60's-present. A few people have interesting results running an ITB setup on a 1UZ-FE though... though usually when swapping those engines into older 70's-80's Toyotas that are much lighter than an SC.
I recommended switching to bucket seats with side bolsters because... well... once you drive one of these cars on curvy mountain roads with a dialed in suspension that has little or no body roll and an LSD you will understand. The stock seats are stylish, comfortable and have nice memory position settings but they will not hold you in on the curves when body roll is near eliminated. A direct bolt-in with very minimal wiring changes are Supra MKIV seats which look like they could have been a factory option in an SC. S2000 seats are also popular. RX8 seats also. Then there are many aftermarket seat options.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 05-01-17 at 06:55 PM.
05-01-17, 06:54 PM
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
If you're planning on nitrous I would recommend skipping the W58 and going right to an R154, AR-5 or 350Z CD009 since all of those can handle additional shock-loading from a sudden surge in torque reliably for years.
I'm not well versed in 1UZ-FE's to suggest much if you are planning to use nitrous and race gas. Check out the website Lextreme, Driftmotion and Xcessive Manufacturing for a lot of main support components. Lextreme especially deals with 1UZ-FE upgrade parts. I'm not educated enough on the toughness of 1UZ-FE piston rings but you may want to research what others have encountered with their nitrous setups on SC400's. I'm not into nitrous myself but I know others here can offer more astute advice and specifics in that department.
Starting out by getting the car handling and stopping well for control is the right way to begin. You're on the right track. I would include sorting the transmission swap in that stage before touching your fuel system. Just keep in mind that 1UZ-FE's don't generally respond as easily to power modifications as do 2JZ-GE's. They are VERY reliable engines with decent power and torque but they do not make more power easily like the Ford 302/5.0, Ford 4.6, Ford Coyote, GM LS, or any number of Mopar engines from the 60's-present.
I recommended switching to bucket seats with side bolsters because... well... once you drive one of these cars on curvy mountain roads with a dialed in suspension that has little or no body roll and an LSD you will understand. The stock seats are stylish, comfortable and have nice memory position settings but they will not hold you in on the curves when body roll is near eliminated. Direct bolt-in with very minimal wiring are Supra MKIV seats. S2000 seats are also popular. RX8 seats also. Then there are many aftermarket seat options.
I'm not well versed in 1UZ-FE's to suggest much if you are planning to use nitrous and race gas. Check out the website Lextreme, Driftmotion and Xcessive Manufacturing for a lot of main support components. Lextreme especially deals with 1UZ-FE upgrade parts. I'm not educated enough on the toughness of 1UZ-FE piston rings but you may want to research what others have encountered with their nitrous setups on SC400's. I'm not into nitrous myself but I know others here can offer more astute advice and specifics in that department.
Starting out by getting the car handling and stopping well for control is the right way to begin. You're on the right track. I would include sorting the transmission swap in that stage before touching your fuel system. Just keep in mind that 1UZ-FE's don't generally respond as easily to power modifications as do 2JZ-GE's. They are VERY reliable engines with decent power and torque but they do not make more power easily like the Ford 302/5.0, Ford 4.6, Ford Coyote, GM LS, or any number of Mopar engines from the 60's-present.
I recommended switching to bucket seats with side bolsters because... well... once you drive one of these cars on curvy mountain roads with a dialed in suspension that has little or no body roll and an LSD you will understand. The stock seats are stylish, comfortable and have nice memory position settings but they will not hold you in on the curves when body roll is near eliminated. Direct bolt-in with very minimal wiring are Supra MKIV seats. S2000 seats are also popular. RX8 seats also. Then there are many aftermarket seat options.
5/6 speed swap will probably wait until I trash the auto. Or get bored enough of it. That isn't high on my list until the rest is worked out. Still need the car to be emissions compliant for at least a year or two depending on what year I get. Seems like there are issues with manual swaps in sc's and emissions testing.
Bucket seats will have to be added to the list then. Even my luv needed more side bolster so I swapped in vokvo S60 seats. Can't imagine a good handling car with a lazyboy seat being that fun in the curves
05-02-17, 12:26 AM
#15
The SC stock seats are very nice. They're just intended for cruising, not hardcore canyon carving. Any car properly set up for handling will need seats with side bolsters to hold you in place.
SC's with manual swaps are only an issue depending on what model and year you swap them into (all OBD1's are the easiest as far as any wiring goes) and what locale you are in. I am not certain but I think I read that the CEL light can be eliminated in early SC400 manual swaps. 1996+ manual swaps into SC400's might pose more problems.
From an emissions standpoint to do an absolutely foolproof manual swap you would need an SC300, preferably one that came with Federal emissions and probably a 1992-1994 to have the easiest time finding the correct factory M/T Federal ECU. Cali-Spec Emissions M/T ECU's are hard to come by, are only needed on a Cali-Spec SC300 and will produce a CEL on any SC300 with Federal Emissions. Also, 1995 Federal and 1995 Cali-Spec M/T ECU's have some differences prior to the 1996 OBD2 specs that make them uniquely suited to 1995 SC300's... or at least this just applies to Cali-Spec SC300's.
But you could also just find an original SC300 5-speed in that case.
With an SC400 I would research more on CELs and emissions testing with manual swaps. You aren't in California so that immediately takes you out of the most draconian test rules possible.
Note that there are both Federal and Cali-Spec SC400's as well. Consult the ECU's in this list and you will see:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...s-by-year.html
For the best simplicity with emissions testing I recommend locating any SC400 with Federal Emissions. How to tell? so long as the hood hasn't been replaced the original emissions diagram sticker should be just under the front lip with the timing belt and vacuum hose diagrams. It will clearly state what emissions type the car came with.
.....
Joe, I am moving this thread to our Performance & Maintenance section since we're getting long into the subject of modification notes at this point.
SC's with manual swaps are only an issue depending on what model and year you swap them into (all OBD1's are the easiest as far as any wiring goes) and what locale you are in. I am not certain but I think I read that the CEL light can be eliminated in early SC400 manual swaps. 1996+ manual swaps into SC400's might pose more problems.
From an emissions standpoint to do an absolutely foolproof manual swap you would need an SC300, preferably one that came with Federal emissions and probably a 1992-1994 to have the easiest time finding the correct factory M/T Federal ECU. Cali-Spec Emissions M/T ECU's are hard to come by, are only needed on a Cali-Spec SC300 and will produce a CEL on any SC300 with Federal Emissions. Also, 1995 Federal and 1995 Cali-Spec M/T ECU's have some differences prior to the 1996 OBD2 specs that make them uniquely suited to 1995 SC300's... or at least this just applies to Cali-Spec SC300's.
But you could also just find an original SC300 5-speed in that case.
With an SC400 I would research more on CELs and emissions testing with manual swaps. You aren't in California so that immediately takes you out of the most draconian test rules possible.
Note that there are both Federal and Cali-Spec SC400's as well. Consult the ECU's in this list and you will see:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...s-by-year.html
For the best simplicity with emissions testing I recommend locating any SC400 with Federal Emissions. How to tell? so long as the hood hasn't been replaced the original emissions diagram sticker should be just under the front lip with the timing belt and vacuum hose diagrams. It will clearly state what emissions type the car came with.
.....
Joe, I am moving this thread to our Performance & Maintenance section since we're getting long into the subject of modification notes at this point.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 05-02-17 at 12:31 AM.