I am planning to go NA-T using the Aristo ECU part number 89661-3A470 or 89666-30180 on my 1998 SC300. Anyone running the Ecumaster DET3+ in piggyback configuration, would like to hear from anyone who is running one or tried to run one. Maps would be great if anyone has one they would share. I am pretty set on running one, I already bought one.

Concerning the 89666-30180 ECU, anyone know of how to bypass the immobilizer? I have seen some software out there (TOYOLEX), anyone used this successfully? Does the 89666-30180 ECU have OBD2. The reason I would like to use the 89666-30180 ECU is because of the capacitor issues with the late 90's ECUs.

 

Hi Ali,

Second question. If I remove the igniter and go with coils with built in igniters, what provides feedback to pin 58 (IGF) on the ECU? Will the car run without IGF?

Thanks,
Bruce

 

Ali,

I found this item (attached) that may solve the problem. Have you ever heard of it?

Thanks,
Bruce

 

So I purchased the Syltech - 1JZ /2JZ Non-VVTi Smart Coil Igniter Delete Kit - Version 2: Suits Factory ECU / No SKU: JZIGNITERDEL-V2.

This item is just supposed to plug in where the igniter normally goes and then you can run R35 smart coils with built in igniters.

Based on the wiring I can see (colors) it seems like what it does is is just run the trigger signals straight through the unit and out the wire that would normally carry the coil signal.

For instance, if you look at pin B1 the trigger signal for coil 1, it is the same color wire (white) as pin B6, the coil signal that would normally come from the OE igniter. This is the case for all six trigger / coil wire sets.

Some how the unit can tell when the trigger signal comes through for each coil and it sends an IGF signal to the ECU so you do not get a CEL. It also sends a tach signal so you also have a tach.

So I think what you do is wire the car as though you are installing non-smart coils without built in igniters, but remove the igniter, install this kit, and change the coils to smart coils with built in igniters.

Seems like good quality craftsmanship.

Pretty cool plug and play unit if it works. I will install and post the results.









This is the pinout for the OE igniter that seems to show what is going on in the igniter delete kit.


Bruce

 

I installed the Syltech Igniter Delete Kit this weekend and replaced my VVTi setup in order to get a stronger spark. Mission accomplished. No more spark wash. I have a tach and no CEL.

It took about 12 hours to replace the coils, re-wire the car, and mount the Syltech unit. Overall, it was straight forward.

Here are some pictures of the install.











Bruce

 

Yes the cluster mod should be left in place.
It is for most multi coil ignitors and also for smart ignitors which are the same but they each output one signal instead of the ignitor outputting all 6 for them.

The immobilizer is difficult to bypass, there are places that can do it though but it is easier to get a non immobilizer ecu from an aristo.
I have one for a 2jzgte vvti so they are out there, basically you are looking for one without the extra grey connector on the end if I'm remembering the color right. It will just have the ecu casing covering that part instead.
Have not used that piggyback, if its works for a vvti 2jzgte then likely it should work with that ecu but you may have to learn to tune it or find someone willing to do it.

Each coil provides an IGF signal, so usually they tie all 6 together back to the ecu. the ecu sees the 6 signals it would have seen from the ignitor so it is happy.

The new setup looks good , the individual coils are pretty effective. My vvti coils haven't given me issues but there are lots of options when it comes to coils on these engines.

 

Ali,

Thanks for the feedback. The HITACHI coils I installed did not have IGF out. That is why I had to run with the Syltech igniter delete device. All is good. I have a tach and no CEL.

Bruce

 

I’m looking for some advice on the topic of coil on plug conversion with a stock ECU. I want to run the EMU black with a parallel PNP harness for my 99 gs300.If anyone has done it please chime in. Also if it’s possible to run them sequentially with the EMU black and the pnp harness. It will be using the automatic transmission, so not going to be running just a standalone yet. I can post my modification list if it’ll help.

 

You might find what your looking for here:

Post 949 and 950.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...l#post11826379

Hope it helps.
Bruce

 

Hi Ali,

I recorded three boost events with the CarTester software from Russia. In the charts below, the white dashed lines are at 50kPa increments for the turbo and 50 deg increments for timing.

My question is, do you think the timing is doing the right thing given the amount of boost? The timing just seems erratic?

Thanks,
Bruce

 

Ok, I got a question. What is a Na-T (and what is a Na?)

 

This is a jdm 2jzgte non-vvti ecu right? The timing looks fine to me, gte ecu timing wise is tuned well/borderline aggressive out of boost and drops quickly to conservative timing as soon as you hit a reasonable amount of boost there.
It also dumps a fair amount of fuel to account for any hiccups in the transition. It could be smoother but it looks on point not seeing anything out of the ordinary there. You will see similar low timing in-between shifts as well.

The sc300 has a non turbo 2jzge engine factory, so NA is naturally aspirated. NA-T is when you take an originally naturally aspirated engine and add a turbo to it hence the dash T at the end.
It is a way to differentiate it from the 2jzgte in the turbo supra which came factory with a turbo.