t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Has anyone figured out why the gauge cluster bulbs are so finicky? I know it's a common issue, but I've never seen an explanation. Every time I open the back panels up to put a new bulb in, the same ones generally remain problematic and a new one I didn't touch goes out...

Is it a bulb (wattage) issue, a polarity issue, or a general circuit board voltage issue? Some of the ones I take out are blown, even though they worked before.

With close to 20 screws to remove, it's not the most convenient setup to keep taking apart in an attempt to get it right.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I pulled it apart again and checked another previously untouched bulb that just went out after the last change, and sure enough, it was burnt out, too. The big, two-filament bulbs surrounding the speedo and tach seem to be the problematic ones. It doesn't help that polarity matters and there's no obvious way to tell which is which.

So, having had enough of that unsatisfying guesswork, I swapped them all out to the small black bulbs. They're dimmer, but at least they work consistently and don't care about polarity! They don't completely fill the opening, but the drawbacks appear minimal compared to the frustration of the proper bulbs.

Edit: Black based bulbs, that is. The bulbs themselves aren't black. Also, does anyone happen to know what sort of bulb pullers/pliers work for this size? They're amazingly difficult to get out by hand.

oldManTan

solder an LED strip (or 2) to one (or 2) of the bulb sockets and stuff it in there. looks better (no hotspots) and nothing to worry about getting loose.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I've thought about LED, but the ones rated for that socket size tend to be 1-SMD and a very directional light output. I'm an idiot when it comes to soldering. What exactly is your method accomplishing, making a single socket power the whole section of the cluster? How narrow/long are these LED strips? Does it tee off in both directions or just sprawl wherever you direct it away from the socket?

Anyway, the Q is about what's causing the stock setup to fail whenever disturbed. It's not a matter of anything being loose, as far as I can tell. It's like when you change an incandescent bulb at home, the other one sharing the socket always fails shortly after. Is that what's going on with the gauge cluster, the two filament bulbs are super sensitive?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I realized yesterday, the small single-filament bulbs are plenty bright when turned up all the way. I usually keep my dimmer turned down a ways. As luck would have it, the small bulbs are almost the exact same brightness at full intensity as the big ones are at my normal setting.

So, if you're similarly frustrated with the big bulbs burning out every time you sneeze, this may be a viable alternative if you have spare small ones on hand. The only downside I see is the warning lights and indicators will also be brighter when turned up.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

This thread might help answer your questions about the LED strip:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...klighting.html

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

That doesn't look too terribly difficult, but more trouble than I care for. Especially because my PITA wiring harness is too short to pull the gauge cluster out without dropping the steering column, which in turn means separating the lower trim panels that overlap at the ignition ring and cabin temp sensor. And once I have access to the plugs on the back of the cluster, it still requires massive amounts of cursing and damaging of stubborn plastic to get them free. My car was cursed in that respect. The other SCs I've messed with slid out easily.