Help with aristo ecu code reading
02-12-16, 10:14 AM
#1
Help with aristo ecu code reading
Hey guys I need a little hand here .. I have an OBDI Aristo ECU running on my OBDII Harness and was wondering if anyone had any ideas how to go about reading check engine light codes.
Being a 97 I have a DDL2 (OBDII) port under the dash. I also have a OBDII diagnostic box next to it that is round and I have a diagnostic box uner the hood too .. I am not sure what proceedure to use to check for codes..
I hit what seemed like fuel / boost cut last night and the engine light flashed on for a second and went away pretty quick .. it happend twice at different times and I could only imagine it was because I hit 15psi, which is I believe as much as a stock aristo ecu can handle .
The engine light has me interested in knowing even if it isn't on now.. but also how the heck to check it.. I would imagine my OBDII scanner wouldn't work but I will try..
Anyways, any ideas or help would be great. I couldn't find any of this info covered anywhere so figured I would ask.
Being a 97 I have a DDL2 (OBDII) port under the dash. I also have a OBDII diagnostic box next to it that is round and I have a diagnostic box uner the hood too .. I am not sure what proceedure to use to check for codes..
I hit what seemed like fuel / boost cut last night and the engine light flashed on for a second and went away pretty quick .. it happend twice at different times and I could only imagine it was because I hit 15psi, which is I believe as much as a stock aristo ecu can handle .
The engine light has me interested in knowing even if it isn't on now.. but also how the heck to check it.. I would imagine my OBDII scanner wouldn't work but I will try..
Anyways, any ideas or help would be great. I couldn't find any of this info covered anywhere so figured I would ask.
02-12-16, 12:40 PM
#2
does your harness have the diagnostic port on it still? it should.
I think if you just do the old procedure of jumping te1 and e1 it should blink out codes like normal.
a constant blink means everything is fine. if the light is not on at all then something is incorrect.
if it blinks in patterns.. well that is the code.
also when you first put your key in the light should come on solid for a sec and then it goes away.
I want to say that obd2 the light is wired like obd1, but it also has the additional obd2 port, so when you hook up a obd1 ecu, the light is still wired to the same place so it just starts working like it does on obd1... but the obd2 port will not function anymore.
it is supposed to blink at you when you hit boost cut, very familiar with it, it also does it on speed cut but not positive on that one. its very normal, it wont store a code either it just blinks at you and goes away in a few second when it lets you accelerate again. mine was around 15-16 psi, on days with colder air temps that extra psi or 2 of boost can be the difference between hitting it or not.
I think if you just do the old procedure of jumping te1 and e1 it should blink out codes like normal.
a constant blink means everything is fine. if the light is not on at all then something is incorrect.
if it blinks in patterns.. well that is the code.
also when you first put your key in the light should come on solid for a sec and then it goes away.
I want to say that obd2 the light is wired like obd1, but it also has the additional obd2 port, so when you hook up a obd1 ecu, the light is still wired to the same place so it just starts working like it does on obd1... but the obd2 port will not function anymore.
it is supposed to blink at you when you hit boost cut, very familiar with it, it also does it on speed cut but not positive on that one. its very normal, it wont store a code either it just blinks at you and goes away in a few second when it lets you accelerate again. mine was around 15-16 psi, on days with colder air temps that extra psi or 2 of boost can be the difference between hitting it or not.
02-15-16, 10:37 AM
#3
does your harness have the diagnostic port on it still? it should.
I think if you just do the old procedure of jumping te1 and e1 it should blink out codes like normal.
a constant blink means everything is fine. if the light is not on at all then something is incorrect.
if it blinks in patterns.. well that is the code.
also when you first put your key in the light should come on solid for a sec and then it goes away.
I want to say that obd2 the light is wired like obd1, but it also has the additional obd2 port, so when you hook up a obd1 ecu, the light is still wired to the same place so it just starts working like it does on obd1... but the obd2 port will not function anymore.
it is supposed to blink at you when you hit boost cut, very familiar with it, it also does it on speed cut but not positive on that one. its very normal, it wont store a code either it just blinks at you and goes away in a few second when it lets you accelerate again. mine was around 15-16 psi, on days with colder air temps that extra psi or 2 of boost can be the difference between hitting it or not.
I think if you just do the old procedure of jumping te1 and e1 it should blink out codes like normal.
a constant blink means everything is fine. if the light is not on at all then something is incorrect.
if it blinks in patterns.. well that is the code.
also when you first put your key in the light should come on solid for a sec and then it goes away.
I want to say that obd2 the light is wired like obd1, but it also has the additional obd2 port, so when you hook up a obd1 ecu, the light is still wired to the same place so it just starts working like it does on obd1... but the obd2 port will not function anymore.
it is supposed to blink at you when you hit boost cut, very familiar with it, it also does it on speed cut but not positive on that one. its very normal, it wont store a code either it just blinks at you and goes away in a few second when it lets you accelerate again. mine was around 15-16 psi, on days with colder air temps that extra psi or 2 of boost can be the difference between hitting it or not.
The CEL does exactly what you said, blinks for a second or two and turns off. I do still have all my harness ports in-tack so I still need to try the T1 &Te1 jumper cause I am fairly confident that will work..
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