Tam4511

iTrader: (9)

For the last couple of weeks, under heavy acceleration, my battery light would come on for maybe 1 second, and then go off. I It was a sign that the alternator was going out so i started looking around for another one, a couple of days ago my battery died while I was driving it, which confirmed my suspicion of my alternator being bad.

So i bought a used one and am having it rebuilt just to be safe. but in the mean time i charged up my old battery so i could start the car and get it to my shop. I put the battery back in today and go to turn the key and I got nothing, no lights, no beeps, nothing.

Is there a fuse or a common wiring problem that could cause this? I checked all of the main fuses under the hood. I looked the best i could with out a fuse puller under the dash, the Ignition Switch fuse looks a little off, could this cause no power to anything?

any insight would be apreciated!
thanks in advance!

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

Don't you suspect the battery? Battery chargers sometimes tell you that the battery is charged, but it might be bad as well if you're having issues like this. Or have you replaced it yet?

Tam4511

iTrader: (9)

well when i arc the battery with jumper cables it sparks strong. so i know the battery isnt bad. Even if it was, my cluster should still light up.

Is it common for main relays to go out? does anyone know how to test one?

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

It takes a lot more amps to turn over an engine than it does to spark, but based off of what you said, the battery could be good. Just don't dig deep only to find that it was you battery the entire time. It does happen...lol

Tam4511

iTrader: (9)

I under stand that. But nothing comes on when I turn the key. Its like there is no battery. It doesn't take much to power the cars accessories.

I just want to know what fuses would case this, or relays.
Or if there are any common wires that go bad/get loose/corrode

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

What do you mean that the ignition fuse is a bit off? Quickly check the battery with a multimeter. A good 12v batter should read between 11 and 13 volts or so.

Tam4511

iTrader: (9)

The casing was broken but the copper was still intact. I have anotehr 40a fuse im going to pop in there when i get home to see if thats it.

And ill try that too.

Tam4511

iTrader: (9)

Ok so I just checked all of my fuses with a test light and nothing has power. What would cause this? A loose alt wire?

2jznosht

So your alternators been on its way out for a couple weeks...meaning your battery has been discharged quite a bit over that same time period. Weakening it. The final discharge probably killed it.

Ps what powers the electronics while the car is off?

Tam4511

iTrader: (9)

I fully charged it at work today and then tested it with a $6,000 tester.
Needles to say, i think the battery is fine.
Trust me, I wish I was wrong. I wish it was just the battery.

The thing I hate most is not being able to figure out what is wrong.

2jznosht

Where do you work that has a $6000 tester and no one who can figure out this issue? Anyhow what were the conditions of your test

Tam4511

iTrader: (9)

I work at Honda. We have four ED18 battery testers (6k ea) and one GR8 tester (12k)

I figured it out guys. I'm a ****ing idiot.
I'm glad you told me to check the battery because I eventually caved in and went to swap the battery with a different one and what do I see laying under the old battery? The OTHER positive cable that I completely forgot about... -_-
I'll be swapping the alternator tomorrow.

Tam4511

iTrader: (9)

Thanks to every one for the quick responses and help. Sorry I wasted you time.

Oconee1985

iTrader: (2)

LMAO its nice to know there are other people out there like me

2jznosht

Yep. That cable will do it. Glad you got it squared away