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My 1JZ is killing itself

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Old 05-06-13, 07:43 PM
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SFrymyah
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Default My 1JZ is killing itself

Any kind of help here is appreciated. I cannot figure this out now. I made a thread the other day about a dead gauge cluster - things have gotten worse. A lot worse.

I had the motor out of my car for about a month to take care of a few leaks and do some spring cleaning, as well as build my R154. Everything went back in the car great and it fired up and purred like a kitten the first time I turned the key. I drove it Saturday night and all hell has broken loose.

As some of you may know, as soon as I started the car again for the first time, The gauge cluster was dead. No lights. No needles. No speedo or Tach. No time, No Odometer. It was reading fuel level and water temp, but nothing else. After some diagnosing and a little help here, myself and a few other members came to the conclusion that I had somehow let the magic smoke out of the unit.

Saturday on the way home, I did a quick second and third gear pull and hit what felt like the rev limiter and the car was very slow to build boost - I discovered that the throttle cable came loose from the bracket, but something felt weird about the rev limiter, like it was way too soon, but not violent enough to be boost cut. I had a check engine light come on right then.

The light turned out to be Code 42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor. I am seeing this as insignificant because the cluster is still "dead". Some guys on SoarerCentral reported this code with a dead dash. I reset the light, and in the process pulled the wiring harness back through the firewall to see if there was anything wrong with my extension or the ECU connectors - I found nothing. While the wires were out, I opened the ECU to look for dead capacitors - all good there. Fed it all back through, fired the car and had a pretty crappy idle and another CEL. Checked the code - 41 - throttle position sensor. I pulled the connector, cleaned it, checked all of my contacts and put it back on. I was starting to get stumped now because I did not touch the TPS while I had the motor out.

Put everything back together, went to fire it - dead. The car would turn over, try to run and die. Pulled the plugs - fuel fouled. Luckily, i had another set here, so I gapped them to .028, put them in and got the same thing and other code - 31 - Flow meter Signal.

I am at a complete loss. When the motor was out this time around, I changed nothing in the wiring. The ECU was pulled and set in a safe, static free place in the house. I took extra care to make sure the harness was not damaged going in and out. I have checked, rechecked and triple checked my harness connections. I have pulled the Cluster 3 times.

Help!
Old 05-06-13, 08:09 PM
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jwin
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How is your ground? Is your engine grounded good To the chassis? Is your battery relocated? If so check the ground terminal.
Old 05-06-13, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jwin
How is your ground? Is your engine grounded good To the chassis? Is your battery relocated? If so check the ground terminal.
Battery Is in stock location. How many grounds off of the motor am I supposed to have? This is on thing I have not extensively checked.
Old 05-06-13, 08:58 PM
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jwin
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The body harness has grounds to the chassis. From the chassis to the engine I'm not sure. At least one good one but having two wouldn't be a bad idea. I don't have a manual to check. I know I remember having one from the firewall to the engine.
Old 05-06-13, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jwin
The body harness has grounds to the chassis. From the chassis to the engine I'm not sure. At least one good one but having two wouldn't be a bad idea. I don't have a manual to check. I know I remember having one from the firewall to the engine.
The one from the back of the head to the firewall is in place. The one that goes from the negative terminal to the frame to the intake manifold is also in place. I did double check for continuity to the frame when i put them all back from having the motor out.
Old 05-07-13, 05:30 AM
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I know how frustrating wiring can be. I went through the same thing with my injectors on my 1JZ swap. Had to call in the calvary to help diagnose and get it running. I thought I was going to have to fly someone down to Alabama to troubleshoot. The ground was my first guess, but my second guess is in the ECU itself or the wiring while doing the extension.
Old 05-07-13, 05:58 AM
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I feel like I can rule out the wiring at this point. I have gone through almost the entire harness. Last night I pulled the ECU and checked over every square millimeter and found no signs of damage. I did a little thinking this morning and I wanted to bring up something else I just noticed -


My dead cluster? The clock illuminates when the key is in the acc. position.

Also, what exactly is the box beside the ECU?

I failed to mention that we welded in a new trans tunnel to clear my soarer R154. I'm starting to think I cooked a bunch of stuff.
Old 05-07-13, 03:53 PM
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Added grounds. No luck. Unplugged the map sensor hoping it'd go into limp mode. No luck. Map sensor is getting 5v. Checked the ecu again - no visible failure.
Old 05-07-13, 04:10 PM
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Confirming the obvious, I have fuel and spark.
Old 05-07-13, 08:15 PM
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Running now with a crazy surging idle with no difference in throttle position.
Old 05-08-13, 11:05 AM
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Vrank
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Welding to the car with the battery connected can definitely eff some things up
Old 05-08-13, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Vrank
Welding to the car with the battery connected can definitely eff some things up
not only was the battery dead, it was on the other side of the garage. I think I've got it all fixed now.
Old 05-08-13, 12:48 PM
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Ecu, ecu, ecu!
Old 05-08-13, 03:16 PM
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Ali SC3
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all of those circuits share a 5V as well as a sensor ground circuit, sometimes if one is acting up it will affect the others. what was the fix?
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