jwin

iTrader: (16)

So yesterday I finish my car put my car back on the ground. Started it up and I couldn't disengage the clutch to put it into gear. So I put the car back on jacks took off the inspection cover and the slave cylinder rod could be pushed back with my hand and the pedal was really light. The slave cylinder rod moves with the pedal too but not enough force to move the hub. After some research this morning I believe that it cause I didn't bench bleed the new used clutch master. Has anyone else had this problem? I will bench bleed it today to see if it fixes the problem. Any other suggestions? How do you tell if your clutch master or slave is bad?

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Thise are good questions. i didnt have any of those problems on my install, except i installed the clutch fork mount backwards. Someone should post up soon to give you some ideas. second problem i had was the brand new oem dm throwout bearing broke after the car got tuned.. luckily it was only a mile or less from the shop.

jwin

iTrader: (16)

Neither the slave or the clutch master is leaking. For some reason the clutch pedal is harder now then yesterday. Before I even started bleeding it.

shonuff53

iTrader: (3)

I've had similar issues they can be a real pain. Always make sure to get some fluid in there before installing it and moving the cylinder in and out. Bench bleeding can help if it is a bleeding issue. One trick that has helped me before is while bleeding when someone is holding the pedal down and you release pressure via the bleeder screw as the flow slows down press the slave piston in and it will clear out any air in the slave cylinder. You should be able to see the flow slow down with a clear hose connected home depot or any hardware store sells it. Also press against the fork to help the slv cyl extend all the way when you're trying to build up pressure. Once you're certain its bled, if the pressure still does not feel right try adjusting the pedal. I've measured the rod adjustment on old ones then installed a new cylinder and the rod adjustments have never been the same so don't be afraid to mess with it a little, make big adjustments at first to see what helps more and in the end make sure the pedal comes out all the way and does not bottom out when pressed in. Not sure if this will help good luck

shonuff53

iTrader: (3)

Not to sure about you're setup but with the stronger pressure plates assisting the cylinder/fork movement while bleeding usually has helped me. Adjust the pedal stops if you need to.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

make sure the clutch hub that has the snap rings is intact.. the lip on either side (sometimes its on the clutch disk side that you cant readily see that is broken) has a tendency to snap off and if so will only offer a limited range of movement .. it has happened to me

jwin

iTrader: (16)

I can move the slave cylinder with my hand in and out. Is that normal? I took off the clutch line at the slave cylinder and stuck the end in a bottle of brake fluid higher than the master and bleed the master that way by itself. I emptied about two reservoir of the clutch. Hopefully that is enough. Going to bleed it more today with a second person. I wanna drive the damn thing.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

please double check the clutch hub ...

jwin

iTrader: (16)

What do I check for?

jwin

iTrader: (16)

After bleeding the clutch again the pedal is firm when I start the car the pedal is softer and I can't put the car into gear. What could be the cause of that?

jwin

iTrader: (16)

Will take the pressure plate off tomorrow to see if the clutch is in the right way.