my "HELP ME C.L."thread
that IGSW pin on your ECU that you were just messing with is supposed to get 12v+ with the key in ON and START from:
7.5a "IGN" fuse (lower left kick panel)
that 12v switched power goes from: 7.5a IGN fuse, over to the passenger kick panel to plug IJ2 pin 11, then over to your IGSW pin at the ecu you've just been tinkering with.
7.5a "IGN" fuse (lower left kick panel)
that 12v switched power goes from: 7.5a IGN fuse, over to the passenger kick panel to plug IJ2 pin 11, then over to your IGSW pin at the ecu you've just been tinkering with.
seeing that iam an idiot, SO I RUN A WIRE FROM THE fusebox to the ecu pin??
your engine fires up instantly. why in the **** would you think you have low compression and need to do a compression test?
edit: i have changed my mind and i support you in doing a compression test. do the test, decide that your engine is the problem, and ship the entire car and all parts to:
jacob cartmill
801 maricopa dr
Murfreesboro, TN 37128
edit: i have changed my mind and i support you in doing a compression test. do the test, decide that your engine is the problem, and ship the entire car and all parts to:
jacob cartmill
801 maricopa dr
Murfreesboro, TN 37128
Last edited by cartmill; Jul 17, 2012 at 07:31 PM.
well, that depends whether you know what IJ2 is. there should be switched 12v on pin 11 on that.
if that pin has 12v, connect that to your mother****ing IGSW pin on your ECU.
if that pin does not have 12v, get a TAP-A-FUSE and connect your mother****ing 7.5a IGN fuse to your mother****ing IGSW pin on your ECU.
your engine fires up instantly. why in the **** would you think you have low compression and need to do a compression test?
edit: i have changed my mind and i support you in doing a compression test. do the test, decide that your engine is the problem, and ship the entire car and all parts to:
jacob cartmill
801 maricopa dr
Murfreesboro, TN 37128
edit: i have changed my mind and i support you in doing a compression test. do the test, decide that your engine is the problem, and ship the entire car and all parts to:
jacob cartmill
801 maricopa dr
Murfreesboro, TN 37128

Jim , you better listen to people who know better than us
. .. seriously , that will be a hard starting engine or it will also not even fire up if compressions are bad. You may not have the perfect compression for each cylinder cause we all don't know the history of these JDM swaps but at least it fires right up for now.. that is something you should be jumping up and down
like PogiKoSC4 .. 
At anyrate , I am happy for you buddy .. you got progress going on there !
iam not doubting any wisdom. but iam stating for a FACT!! that just because you have a engine that starts, sounds good, and even runs good. dosen't mean the compression(across the cylinders) are in top shape. case in point. off topic but to keep me from sounding like a total idiot.
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/rb...ct-s-rb-6.html
-post #135
"and also i had everything hooked up except the intercooler piping and disconnected the maf. did 4 short turnovers on each cylinder.\
front
1-92
2-100
3-90
4-90
5-90
6-102
kinda low as i hear a brand new rb has 160 across the board, ive also heard that some gauges read differently than others.
i know my ringlands aren't going out as there is never any oil in my cylinders(sans the bad old turbo). and the car sounds and feels strong. but is it dying?? hope not.. "
i do plan on doing a rebuild this year with some forged pistons. but i can start this car up. drive to atl race and drive back on a whim. people don't believe me after they see and hear this car. and when i tell them this has less than 250whp.
with the mods it has it should be minimum in the 300whp range. why isn't this?? because of cylinder compression. iam not doubting anyone. just saying, it's a risk with jdm engines. some luck out and some don't.
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/rb...ct-s-rb-6.html
-post #135
"and also i had everything hooked up except the intercooler piping and disconnected the maf. did 4 short turnovers on each cylinder.\
front
1-92
2-100
3-90
4-90
5-90
6-102
kinda low as i hear a brand new rb has 160 across the board, ive also heard that some gauges read differently than others.
i know my ringlands aren't going out as there is never any oil in my cylinders(sans the bad old turbo). and the car sounds and feels strong. but is it dying?? hope not.. "
i do plan on doing a rebuild this year with some forged pistons. but i can start this car up. drive to atl race and drive back on a whim. people don't believe me after they see and hear this car. and when i tell them this has less than 250whp.
with the mods it has it should be minimum in the 300whp range. why isn't this?? because of cylinder compression. iam not doubting anyone. just saying, it's a risk with jdm engines. some luck out and some don't.
all i'm saying, megamax, is i'd be more concerned with the rest of the car than i would be with the compression numbers, as you have no reason to assume your engine has low compression. it's running lean (as far as i can tell in your video), the ECU may be in limp mode, and the IACV doesnt sound like it's functioning correctly, so why assuming the engine internals are bad?
wow, that thread does not make me miss my 240s.
i had a 91 coupe with a r33 RB26 in it on stock twins, and a 95 SE with an RB25/GT3076R/powerFC.
wow, that thread does not make me miss my 240s.
i had a 91 coupe with a r33 RB26 in it on stock twins, and a 95 SE with an RB25/GT3076R/powerFC.
Last edited by cartmill; Jul 18, 2012 at 09:23 AM.
^how much whp did u put down on both? And did u sell them, they blow up? I think usually the rb is as solid engine u can get from nissan.
For mt final trick/swap I wan't a z33 shell and a rb30de engine with a 26 head.
Then after that ill retire from the swap game and get a '99 porsche 911 turbo.
For mt final trick/swap I wan't a z33 shell and a rb30de engine with a 26 head.
Then after that ill retire from the swap game and get a '99 porsche 911 turbo.
Jim, im wit you on that compression test also just to know and peace of mind. but like the others says i'd be more concerned with the rest of the car first. My next step is to fix my timing belt slack on intake side and the list goes on. Im just really glad that i have the motor running. I've learned alot from reading and listening here in CL. Im still a rookie when it comes to this things. Your doin a great progress here
i sold my rb26 S13 before i dyno'd it. then i got the S14 and it made 368whp@18psi on a dyno dynamics (pump gas) after i retuned it --prob would have been a little over 400whp on a dynojet.
i'm not really a fan of the RBs -- they are too complicated.
i just tuned my local buddy's 93 300zx with a 2jz and a T67 on low boost last weekend. now that's a sweet swap. sweet car, simple/awesome 2jz.
i'm not really a fan of the RBs -- they are too complicated.
i just tuned my local buddy's 93 300zx with a 2jz and a T67 on low boost last weekend. now that's a sweet swap. sweet car, simple/awesome 2jz.
Still a damn heavy car. I had a z32Tt and I hated it. Maybe because I could never get it lined up so it wouldn't eat up the tires. Or the fact I had a dead injector. But that was before I learned about the swaps.
I suck at harness/wiring(u know this) with the rb the harness was a plg and play after I sent it away. Life is much simplier that way. Unless the ign pin isn't getting power.
I suck at harness/wiring(u know this) with the rb the harness was a plg and play after I sent it away. Life is much simplier that way. Unless the ign pin isn't getting power.
I have a sc300 with a puzzling idle problem. when i start the car, the idle is good in park but after i drive the idle becomes very low. like 200 rpm and boggy. if i accelerate and completely let off the gas without braking, the rpm falls to a little under 1k, where its supposed to be.. but if i brake it will slowly drop low coming to a stop around the first dash. but it doesn't die. i've checked all the vacuum lines i can see and i dont hear any farting. I do hear a strange "wwwooosh" sound (sounds kinda like a jet engine) when accelerating cold but it normally goes away before i get out of the neighborhood. never heard it until I changed my fan clutch but was idling poorly before that. I replaced my old broken iacv and wire housing so i know its not that. have searched these forums and cant find anyone with the same idle problem. I really need to fix this because its my daily and i'd really hate to do damage to it driving around with the problem. getting new spark plugs this weekend btw.. help if you can please!
Well guys. I have a dunce outfit on. I didn't pull the ig2 pin or whatever grey plug through the firewall correctly and hence why the car didn't start.
Account 2x's harness work is flawless. I kinda knew there was some (me fault) in why this thing didn't start weeks ago. But all is well(engine/swap)wise. Will go back to updating my build thread as I've done some stuff lst night and lots today(dark knight comes out tonight). So if u need harness work don't hesitate to contact this guy. He was the one who figured out I didn't plug one up. Very patient,although understandably busy. Buy easier to reach than dr tweak.
Now! My window still won't roll up and my hazards don't work(but my horn does) help!
Account 2x's harness work is flawless. I kinda knew there was some (me fault) in why this thing didn't start weeks ago. But all is well(engine/swap)wise. Will go back to updating my build thread as I've done some stuff lst night and lots today(dark knight comes out tonight). So if u need harness work don't hesitate to contact this guy. He was the one who figured out I didn't plug one up. Very patient,although understandably busy. Buy easier to reach than dr tweak.
Now! My window still won't roll up and my hazards don't work(but my horn does) help!
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