If you look at this picture... I feel like the input shaft would have no problems reaching the pilot bearing.

Z33:
W58: (6.00")
R154: (6.75")

If we only had someone measure the input shaft from the gearbox to the tip on a 350Z transmission, we'd have a solution to the milling.

 

so you didn't mill the transmission down? but you use a KA24De transmission, so that might mean things are different for you.

Where the milling and starter engagement come into play is when you put a 5/8 inch spacer on the flywheel to offset the thickness of the adapter plate. Then the starter can't reach the teeth on the flywheel. That's why you need to have the flex plate + spacer + flywheel.

now if you didn't mill it and the input shaft was long enough to reach the clutch, then that would be welcome news all around i'm sure. then the pilot bearing adapter would need to grow another 5/8 inches to what it already is thicker by right now as well.

 

Estomax.. I don't think you're understanding what I'm saying or I'm not understanding you.\



Adapter plates for the bellhousing has nothing to do with the flywheel. It doesn't affect the starter engagement as the plate sits AROUND the flywheel, like a normal bellhousing.

I have seen some bizarre adaptions that people used to run by using the stock AUTO flexplate+flywheel spacer+flywheel for the starter engagement. Completely unnecessary (not to mention dangerous) if you get the right flywheel with enough width on the gears.
Case in point... ,
this is so dangerous! I think Halon(?) said his spacer bolts backed out once already, even with loctite.

Here's your picture...

 

BTW.. if you haven't installed the Z33 box yet, could you take a quick measurement from the tip of the input shaft to the gearbox?

 

unfortunately the box is installed already so i can't measure it.

what i am trying to say, if you look at the second picture you posted and then imagine that i didn't mill the bellhousing, i would have the flywheel spaced 5/8 inches out from where it is and the starter wouldnt be able to engage the teeth. which is where i refer back to the first pic you posted above of how to solve that.


anyway, i think we both understand what's going on. but there is some tribal knowledge i am sure Collins has that he wouldn't want to just share here as far as the lengths of shafts and TO bearing mount modifications.

 

is there a way to extend the starter to ensure it reaches with the spacer? I would rather adapt the car to the transmission rather than adapt the transmission to the car, so that if in the future the transmission needs to be replaced wont have to mill that one as well.

 

Now like I said, mine is the KA trans so keep that in mind. My adapter kit came with a pilot bearing "adapter" It's a solid piece of aluminum that goes into the crank shaft. The input shaft from the trans slides into it. The bearing comes out from the motor, I'm guessing to help make up the difference from the adapter plate. Here's a pic, I don't have one just of the pilot bearing.

 

Why is this dangerous? it seems collins adapters uses this technique... maybe I need to look into another option?

 

i dont see the issue here. just mill your bellhousing 5/8", same thickness as the adapter plate, if you are adapting the trans to a 1uz. not that hard. do it right the first time and stop trying to take shortcuts with more spacers or adapters.

i run a throwout bearing spacer from collins with my hr trans with a concentric slave cylinder. the input shaft doesn't go as far as one would like into the clutch setup hence the need for the spacer. the thickness of that spacer is 3/4". at this spacing the TOB doesn't rub and engages perfectly.

say you want to take the weird way out. you are going to have to run a 1 3/8" thick flywheel spacer. to me thats sketchy. also whoever said they dont want to mill it because what if they get a new transmission???? the bellhousing comes off of the transmission. here's mine milled and apart:

 

The difference is $400 to mill the housing apparently.

I just want to understand why stacking the flywheel on the auto flexplate would be dangerous.

 

PseudoK, just give it a long, hard thought.
Flexplate + spacer + flywheel.. balance, bolts backing out, flywheel flying off, etc.
You know, just things that can potentially shear your legs off.

 

Loctite red?

 

What flywheel is that Estomax?

 

that is a collins flywheel. started out as a 3s-gte flywheel from the markings on the box but custom milled beyond that.

 

I would think if you call some local machine shops they would do that for under $100.
1. You aren't supposed to keep stacking stuff on at the rear end of the crank shaft like that.
2. You area also hurting the idea of keeping rotational mass down
3. too many parts = more things to go wrong or more parts to come loose.
4. Loctite is great and all, but I wouldn't trust it to hold all that together at the end of the day too many variables with the spacer.

Milling it would be the proper way to go for sure, but what I don't understand is why they can't just make the adapter piece a little skinnier instead.
spacing issues?