have you guys heard about the xterra 2wd shifter idea, looks like the OP didn't post the results, seem plausible if you have both transmissions to bolt on all the xterra stuff, and then have a conventional shifter bent.
http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/372074...-solution.html

Now I am wondering if the xterra transmission is a candidate by itself, gearing is probably different at the least though.

 

So with modification to the shifter it can hit dead on?

SC4doubleo's looks like its a bit far back, but looking at the pictures the shifter is unmodified?!

and how much does it typically cost to build a custom driveshaft needed? and to build one I would need an adapter AND the slip yoke from a nissan titan? if your making a custom driveshaft why the need for an adapter? $200 for the adapter and ANOTHER $400 for a custom driveshaft??

 

Mine will be different than yours, as I have an LS. I used a short shifter and didn't modify it at all. Although I did modify my center console a little bit. The only reason I did that is because the shifter location felt comfortable to me.

As far as the drive shaft, I just called "The Driveshaft Shop" in NC and had them make a custom one piece shaft. I told them what I had and they made it. Nissan front yoke and the rear is a traditional 4bolt pattern with an adapter to the 3 bolt yoke on the rear-end. They charged me $560 including shipping. It's a bit expensive but its worth it for a nice shaft that just bolted in with no problems.

 

damn that pushes this build above the $2k mark that I was wanting to keep it under. I just got a message from collins adapters saying that they have put together a package to make the swap into an SC400 a bolt in process though, so I am wondering how much they are going to charge.

 

If it makes you feel more confident, I did mine just under 2k.

 

$520 for the clutch/flywheel
$300 for the adapter


and I found a good deal ( I think) for $500 for a 350z 6 speed

with $400 for the driveshaft and another $300 in pedals and clutch master..

 

my setup cost me:

::::::Z33 TRANSMISSION SWAP::::::

trans - $550
milled down bellhousing and shifter - $450
adapter kit(all pieces) - $611.05
clutch/flywheel - $515.44
flywheel bolts - $52.47
master clinder and clutch line - $183.98
m/t pedals - $235
oem shifter and spring - $125.04
short shifter - $64.95
m/t bezel - $77.71
slip yoke - $175.30
driveshaft adapter - $ 134.99
driveshaft - $250
fluid (redline) - $60

...

Total so far - $3,485.93


i was told to mill down the bellhousing otherwise the input shaft barely engages with the z33 trans.
http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...s14-build.html

 

so is this 100% true? need to mill down the housing? and how much?

 

I was under the impression that you either milled down the Nissan bellhousing, or bought and installed the flywheel spacer from Collins, heck he even makes adapters from the 2jz to Nissan flywheel, at least he did initially

 

You have to mill the transmission case to readjust the distance added from the engine/trans adapter and the flywheel spacer is the correct length for proper spline engagement.

 

It seems like some milled it down, and some didn't.
Neither are having problems, thus far...

 

I can only speak for myself as I'm using the KA trans, but my kit that I bought from Collins had a modified throw-out bearing in it. Basically it's an extended throw-out bearing to make up for the added space between the trans and motor from the adapter. Everything has been working great though.

Adapter kit: $900
adapter plate+bolts
Flywheel
Clutch disk and pressure plate
modified throw out bearing and pilot bearing

ARP flywheel bolts - $30

I used a 240sx clutch pedal and master. New master and slave - $40

Stainless braided clutch line - $60

I ended up getting two KA transmissions and the clutch pedal assembly for - $130

One piece driveshaft with diff adapter - $560

All that together comes to $1720, but if you add in all the little stuff like bolts for the trans to adapter and the short shifter it comes pretty close to $2k.

I saved money by fabricating a trans mount myself. But you guys with the cd009 trans are going to be more expensive.

 

you really should mill it down, spacing out the flywheel means you need to leave your flex plate installed for the starter to be able to reach any teeth and then you have this janky setup (in my opinion) flex plate + spacer + flywheel.

the right way is to mill down the bellhousing. and that buys your shifter 5/8 inches as well, the shifter is already way too far back.

Marko

 

I think you may be mistaken on something, or I'm not understanding you correctly.

Milling down the bellhousing has nothing to do with starter engagement.
It's mostly due to how far (or not far enough) the input shaft spline goes into the clutch disc, and/or if the input shaft end makes it into the pilot bearing.

I don't think anyone has actually measured the depth of spline engagement and/or the input shaft engagement with the pilot bearing, but it makes sense to take off 5/8" on the bellhousing. But is it really necessary? Someone has to measure it, but I'm afraid it's more trouble than it's worth.

I don't even understand why people would want to use a spacer on a flywheel. That's just asking for trouble WHEN, not if, those bolts back out.

 

I agree ^^^^^

The only thing I put behind the flywheel was the thin spacer that was also behind the factory flex plate as per recommended by Collins.