heater core replacement
10-07-20, 06:08 PM
#16
MoogieBoogie, I have not yet had to do this myself so I can only reiterate #4. I do recommend getting a used heater core, contacting The Brass Works and sending it in to them. Supra MKIV owners have used them and received back high quality OEM-like new heater cores. I myself picked up a used early style SC heater core a while ago and plan to send it in to them in the near future to have rebuilt and ready when it is needed.
There is an early version of the heater core and a later model version. I don't know the year changeover but it may be 1992-1995 and 1996-00. However they both will fit the same way and their differences seem to be the alloy used in the early vs late version. I think the early version is brass and the late version is something else. And the early version seems to be a bit thicker than the late version even though they both fit the same way.
The cool thing about that company other than their quality reproduction vintage heater cores and radiators is that once they do a new core for any vintage model they seem to keep a jig or template of it because numerous obscure heater cores are listed as what they can do including the one for LHD MKIV Supras and I think one of the early MR2's. That's what seems to be the case anyway. It was the case when I sent in an early Soarer SMIC to Bell Intercoolers in Texas for re-core restoration so I assume it will be the same deal with The Brass Works. Whenever someone sends an SC heater core in to them to re-create they will include it in that list of theirs.
....
As for the install, I only know what you have also read about this. It's involved and seems to require taking out the entire front dash to get to it. Although I agree with the OP from years ago in post #1 of this thread that the engine should not need to be removed to do this job. It's just a pain to get to those two clamps for the heater core on the engine side of the firewall because the cylinder head is right in front of them. A special tension clamp gripping tool helps even though it is still a PITA.
I'll also address #2: if you have leaks on your engine side of the firewall at the heater core hoses then I would recommend buying new heater core hoses and clamps. However since these are not located in the interior you should have no other inside hoses flowing coolant to worry about.
The heater core comes with some exterior padded sponge tape from the factory through. Find some generic automotive grade replacement sponge tape for that and cut it to size and length as needed to replace the old stuff.
I know that it's more than just two hoses (one is a two-piece with a metal tube in the middle that you must re-use) but you will have to re-use at least one of your old ones or get creative with some new replacement hose if any of that is necessary.
But to be clear, no there are no other heater core related hoses inside the cabin. Inside and behind the dash the problem is only related to the brass metal of the core becoming compromised in some cars over time. However while the dashboard is out I recommend addressing anything else you want to that is also very hard to get to before putting it back in.
There is an early version of the heater core and a later model version. I don't know the year changeover but it may be 1992-1995 and 1996-00. However they both will fit the same way and their differences seem to be the alloy used in the early vs late version. I think the early version is brass and the late version is something else. And the early version seems to be a bit thicker than the late version even though they both fit the same way.
The cool thing about that company other than their quality reproduction vintage heater cores and radiators is that once they do a new core for any vintage model they seem to keep a jig or template of it because numerous obscure heater cores are listed as what they can do including the one for LHD MKIV Supras and I think one of the early MR2's. That's what seems to be the case anyway. It was the case when I sent in an early Soarer SMIC to Bell Intercoolers in Texas for re-core restoration so I assume it will be the same deal with The Brass Works. Whenever someone sends an SC heater core in to them to re-create they will include it in that list of theirs.
....
As for the install, I only know what you have also read about this. It's involved and seems to require taking out the entire front dash to get to it. Although I agree with the OP from years ago in post #1 of this thread that the engine should not need to be removed to do this job. It's just a pain to get to those two clamps for the heater core on the engine side of the firewall because the cylinder head is right in front of them. A special tension clamp gripping tool helps even though it is still a PITA.
I'll also address #2: if you have leaks on your engine side of the firewall at the heater core hoses then I would recommend buying new heater core hoses and clamps. However since these are not located in the interior you should have no other inside hoses flowing coolant to worry about.
The heater core comes with some exterior padded sponge tape from the factory through. Find some generic automotive grade replacement sponge tape for that and cut it to size and length as needed to replace the old stuff.
I know that it's more than just two hoses (one is a two-piece with a metal tube in the middle that you must re-use) but you will have to re-use at least one of your old ones or get creative with some new replacement hose if any of that is necessary.
But to be clear, no there are no other heater core related hoses inside the cabin. Inside and behind the dash the problem is only related to the brass metal of the core becoming compromised in some cars over time. However while the dashboard is out I recommend addressing anything else you want to that is also very hard to get to before putting it back in.
I looked through this post: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...e-i-lived.html
It looks like the two metal 'pipe' things go into the hole in the firewall which then will connect out to those hoses that you mention in the engine bay. It also looks like the earlier models are thicker than the later models - the thread OP had to do some modification for his 94 after pulling it out of a 97.
I bought a used one from a same year SC400. But just for peace of mind, I'll send it to Brassworks for refurbishment.
Anyone know what the book time is for the heater core replacement? The more I look at the pictures, the more I worry that the car will end up sitting in my driveway in pieces for years.
10-07-20, 06:10 PM
#17
One of the common failure points is where the tubes come into the body of the core. I just repaired one this weekend by re-sweating these joints and pressure tested it and it was leak free. So, that said if that’s the failure it’s a pretty easy repair once you get it out of the heater box. I know, that’s a lot of work to get to that point, just saying you might can pull it and put it back in the same day.
10-07-20, 06:39 PM
#18
The dash removal isn't that bad. it's putting it back in without forgetting anything that can be time consuming.
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MoogieBoogie (10-08-20)
05-06-21, 10:41 PM
#19
Thanks Kahn. You have good taste in cars.. I also had a BB6.
I looked through this post: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...e-i-lived.html
It looks like the two metal 'pipe' things go into the hole in the firewall which then will connect out to those hoses that you mention in the engine bay. It also looks like the earlier models are thicker than the later models - the thread OP had to do some modification for his 94 after pulling it out of a 97.
I bought a used one from a same year SC400. But just for peace of mind, I'll send it to Brassworks for refurbishment.
Anyone know what the book time is for the heater core replacement? The more I look at the pictures, the more I worry that the car will end up sitting in my driveway in pieces for years.
I looked through this post: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...e-i-lived.html
It looks like the two metal 'pipe' things go into the hole in the firewall which then will connect out to those hoses that you mention in the engine bay. It also looks like the earlier models are thicker than the later models - the thread OP had to do some modification for his 94 after pulling it out of a 97.
I bought a used one from a same year SC400. But just for peace of mind, I'll send it to Brassworks for refurbishment.
Anyone know what the book time is for the heater core replacement? The more I look at the pictures, the more I worry that the car will end up sitting in my driveway in pieces for years.
I am planning to send my spare brass early type SC300/400 heater core to The Brass Works sometime this summer as well to have a brand new replica made. I still do not see an SC application listed on their website (SW20 MR2 and JZA80 Supra LHD yes) so one of us may be the first to ask them to create a jig model for it. I have no idea what their R&D timeframe and cost will be for this. I'll find out once I contact them.
Regarding the Honda Prelude BB6 model, it's awesome that you also once owned a BB6. You also have great taste in cars!
I have likened them to the FR-S/GT86/BRZ long before that chassis came about... only in FWD form with more weight and with less ultimate tuning potential in the engine and chassis. Nonetheless I really liked mine and owned it for ten years. I grew to appreciate it far more once I moved out west where there were more twisty mountain roads than there were straight highways. That's the kind of environment where the BB6 Prelude really shined.
Mine was an ATTS (Active Torque Transfer System for anyone reading who isn't familiar) Type SH model. Surprisingly it really was an exceptionally well handling car. Power was just enough (but I did want +50whp and +50 ft-lbs of tourque) and while it wasn't fast it held its own if you kept the momentum going. That 2.2L H22A4 engine and transmission were very expensive to build up for a turbo and as such I never did but I loved that 7200RPM NA engine.
It was very telling to me once I sampled an FR-S back in 2013 and remarked at how generally similar the interior and exterior dimensions are between the BB6 Prelude 2+2 and FR-S 2+2, apart from one being a FWD I-4 and the other being a RWD H-4.
All I changed on mine was to add a Koni Yellow & Ground Control suspension with H&R linear rate springs, Suspension Techniques swaybars front and rear, summer high performance tires superior to the terrible stock all-seasons, an ACT clutch with an aluminum Fidanza flywheel (a chromoly steel FW would have been better) and an RS*R catback muffler which was not at all obnoxious with sound and looked almost factory. No visual changes from stock. The brake pads also greatly benefitted from an upgrade to Hawk HPS pads front and rear. Those were enough to bring out the best in that chassis in the mountains. I always wanted to install early Acura NSX front brake calipers since the stock front sliding single-piston calipers were just not very good.
I actually looked for and almost bought another BB6 manual just before I found my SC but there were few well kept examples available at the time. That little car was one of the most reliable and fun vehicles that I have ever owned. It liked frequent oil top-ups by design but you could take it anywhere anytime.
I've kept the "BB6" in my username ever since I owned that car and now it's so familiar that I won't change it but I'm also happy that I was lucky enough to own that unique Honda for several years. Many memories were created in that fun car
Last edited by KahnBB6; 05-06-21 at 10:50 PM.
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