Differential Bushings - new product
03-11-12, 03:48 PM
#1
Differential Bushings - new product
For you guys who don't make it to the classifieds section, we have a new product, details below:
5 Sets available, 120 shipped. paypal info is in the sig.
This has been a quest of mine for over 1 year as these need to be replaced/upgraded in almost all Toyota mkiv supra's and Lexus SC300/400 and GS300/400 because when the very soft rubber of the stock bushings flexes under torque/load of the drive line it causes the differential to change positions and return to the normal mounting position rapidly which in turn causes dreaded driveline breaking wheel hop which is where these bushings come in to play as they replace the soft rubber stock bushings.
I was looking all over the earth for poly bushings to replace the stock ones to no avl which until now only solid aluminum bushings were avl for more than double my price and if you are like me solid bushings are just not going to cut it on a street drivin car so look no further here is your solution!!
I will say that when I installed them in my own car which is daily drivin the difference was night and day as the wheel hop is totally gone as well as a "diff clunk" I had been chasing for quite some time when taking up a drive gear from a cold start/high idle.
People often ask me how would I sum up the feel with these installed to which the best most reasonable answer I have would be... It feels like the car picked up 15whp down low in the powerband as it totally transforms the feel of the car with a much more connected feeling with out the harshness or vibration caused by that of a solid bushing.
Price for the xspsi6 poly rear differential bushings are 120.00 shipped in the USA.
5 Sets available, 120 shipped. paypal info is in the sig.
This has been a quest of mine for over 1 year as these need to be replaced/upgraded in almost all Toyota mkiv supra's and Lexus SC300/400 and GS300/400 because when the very soft rubber of the stock bushings flexes under torque/load of the drive line it causes the differential to change positions and return to the normal mounting position rapidly which in turn causes dreaded driveline breaking wheel hop which is where these bushings come in to play as they replace the soft rubber stock bushings.
I was looking all over the earth for poly bushings to replace the stock ones to no avl which until now only solid aluminum bushings were avl for more than double my price and if you are like me solid bushings are just not going to cut it on a street drivin car so look no further here is your solution!!
I will say that when I installed them in my own car which is daily drivin the difference was night and day as the wheel hop is totally gone as well as a "diff clunk" I had been chasing for quite some time when taking up a drive gear from a cold start/high idle.
People often ask me how would I sum up the feel with these installed to which the best most reasonable answer I have would be... It feels like the car picked up 15whp down low in the powerband as it totally transforms the feel of the car with a much more connected feeling with out the harshness or vibration caused by that of a solid bushing.
Price for the xspsi6 poly rear differential bushings are 120.00 shipped in the USA.
03-11-12, 03:51 PM
#2
install info and feedback from an sc owner:
Here's my half attempt on a DIY...sorry about the lack of detail. We had to get it done by 7 PM and I had a late start at 5:30 PM.
1) Raise the car, obviously...I recommend doing this one on a lift, or on a set of jack stands (all four in this case, it'll make it easier).
2) Remove the rear part of the exhaust (optional, but you'll see why it's easier later, and for me it was three sets of bolts/nuts so it was easier to pop down).
3) Mark everything in the rear with a paint pen. Rubber isolator, axles, etc.
4) Remove all the drive shaft isolator/flange bolts making note which has washers (balance crucial when replacing the bolts/nuts).
5) Brace the bottom side of the diff, depending on your lift situation (ground, lift, etc).
6) Remove the axle allen head bolts
7) Remove the rear diff allen head bolts, three total
8) Remove the front two bolts that thread all the way into the body - very long with the washer on the bottom that looks like a cup (what you'll be replacing is above this and the "ears").
9) Remove diff slowly lowering it while pulling the rubber isolator and drive shaft away from the diff.
10) Take your air chisel, and hammer the "sleeves" of the bottom side of the bushing inwards - think about these like a mushroom - the more circle you get inwards, the easier it'll be to get them out.
11) Once you get it to the point that it looks visually ok, try to knock it out with a hammer, if it doesn't give then you'll need to keep chiseling inwards.
12) Take the freshly popped out mushroom head bushing/sleeve and light it on fire, while it's burning you can try and pull the sleeve out of the bushing but be careful, it's very hot. We used a welder set, because it was available to us. A plumbers torch would work too.
13) Smooth down the sleeves, get ready to install.
14) Grease everything, then do the reverse to install. Put the flat part up top, and the mushroom shape from the bottom. Reinstall everything, line your paint marks up before calling it finished (on the isolator, etc - you want to make sure it lines up like you pulled it off).
Again, I apologize for the lack of pictures. I had to wear glasses for the first time today, we were in a rush on top of that so grabbing the phone to snap quick pictures was very hard.
-------------------
1) No more THUNK when going into gear!
2) The rear end feels more connected, less slop.
3) Going over the panels on the interstate I noticed less play/thunk.
4) I actually had LESS vibration at 80 MPH then I had stock.
Here's my half attempt on a DIY...sorry about the lack of detail. We had to get it done by 7 PM and I had a late start at 5:30 PM.
1) Raise the car, obviously...I recommend doing this one on a lift, or on a set of jack stands (all four in this case, it'll make it easier).
2) Remove the rear part of the exhaust (optional, but you'll see why it's easier later, and for me it was three sets of bolts/nuts so it was easier to pop down).
3) Mark everything in the rear with a paint pen. Rubber isolator, axles, etc.
4) Remove all the drive shaft isolator/flange bolts making note which has washers (balance crucial when replacing the bolts/nuts).
5) Brace the bottom side of the diff, depending on your lift situation (ground, lift, etc).
6) Remove the axle allen head bolts
7) Remove the rear diff allen head bolts, three total
8) Remove the front two bolts that thread all the way into the body - very long with the washer on the bottom that looks like a cup (what you'll be replacing is above this and the "ears").
9) Remove diff slowly lowering it while pulling the rubber isolator and drive shaft away from the diff.
10) Take your air chisel, and hammer the "sleeves" of the bottom side of the bushing inwards - think about these like a mushroom - the more circle you get inwards, the easier it'll be to get them out.
11) Once you get it to the point that it looks visually ok, try to knock it out with a hammer, if it doesn't give then you'll need to keep chiseling inwards.
12) Take the freshly popped out mushroom head bushing/sleeve and light it on fire, while it's burning you can try and pull the sleeve out of the bushing but be careful, it's very hot. We used a welder set, because it was available to us. A plumbers torch would work too.
13) Smooth down the sleeves, get ready to install.
14) Grease everything, then do the reverse to install. Put the flat part up top, and the mushroom shape from the bottom. Reinstall everything, line your paint marks up before calling it finished (on the isolator, etc - you want to make sure it lines up like you pulled it off).
Again, I apologize for the lack of pictures. I had to wear glasses for the first time today, we were in a rush on top of that so grabbing the phone to snap quick pictures was very hard.
-------------------
1) No more THUNK when going into gear!
2) The rear end feels more connected, less slop.
3) Going over the panels on the interstate I noticed less play/thunk.
4) I actually had LESS vibration at 80 MPH then I had stock.
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11-29-12, 10:13 PM
#11
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Hi, i just wanted to be in line for the next batch, i already asked Aliga and i don't mind waiting a litle while for them either, i think this would be the perfect upgrade for my 3.266 diff before i put it in.
