sc300 na-t tt hg arp torque specs
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sc300 na-t tt hg arp torque specs
What's up guys I got a 93 auto sc300 currently 8 psi dynoed @ 276 rwhp ..thought that'd be enough power...but it wasn't so...
Ripped apart the motor ..
Resurfaced the head
New valve seals
TT HG
Arp head studs
660 cc inj's
Hks vpc b chip(get rid of ugly maf)
The question is,I follwed the manual for torque sequence etc..but some people are telling me I should have torqued more than I did.
Along with the arp studs,it tells you torque in 3 equal steps up to 80 ftlbs..so I did,step 1 25ftlbs,step 2 55ftlbs,and finally torqued them all to 80 ftlbs..I also used the moly lube arp supplied.
With a new mls HG is the recommended 80 ftlbs going to be enough? I plan on tuning for 15psi on 93 octane..
If any of you guys have experience in this area please chime in ,thanks-chad
Ripped apart the motor ..
Resurfaced the head
New valve seals
TT HG
Arp head studs
660 cc inj's
Hks vpc b chip(get rid of ugly maf)
The question is,I follwed the manual for torque sequence etc..but some people are telling me I should have torqued more than I did.
Along with the arp studs,it tells you torque in 3 equal steps up to 80 ftlbs..so I did,step 1 25ftlbs,step 2 55ftlbs,and finally torqued them all to 80 ftlbs..I also used the moly lube arp supplied.
With a new mls HG is the recommended 80 ftlbs going to be enough? I plan on tuning for 15psi on 93 octane..
If any of you guys have experience in this area please chime in ,thanks-chad
#3
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i hope you used a self calibrating digital torque wrench and not the click type ..mine are set to 90 psi.. 3 passes to get there and final 4th uses a torque wrench that sets torque then senses( after holding set pressure for approx 10 seconds) if any slippage in torque such as nut slipping on washer or worse galling into soft alum or threads pulling out of block..also make sure you start at the fullest angle possible to ensure you reach torque in one sweep without stopping and resetting your arm .. its a skill
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I made sure I made the 80ftlbs in full sweeps,also used a $220 1/2 drive cornwell torque wrench click type though..plus I don't think galling of the threads or them stripping would be too much of concern unlike a Honda block that is alum..our 2j's are cast iron.
Arp suggested 80ftlbs I guess I gotta run with that, unless people are blowing HG's..??
Arp suggested 80ftlbs I guess I gotta run with that, unless people are blowing HG's..??
#5
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galling is in the head ..our heads are soft alum.. the galling occurs depending on how hot the engine has been run in the past further softening the alum so as you crank up the torque the nut digs into the alum distorting the actual readings/values..i have seen this happen , threadings pulling out the block also occurs especially if the threads were not cleaned out and chased..
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