View Poll Results: Do you or will you use a distributor cap for your NA-T car?
Yes, distributor cap all the way!
4
44.44%
No, I chose/want different ignition setup.
5
55.56%
Voters: 9. You may not vote on this poll
Distributor Cap Users now and future?
07-14-11, 09:17 AM
#1
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Distributor Cap Users now and future?
Hello fellow Lexus owners. Given that 700+ wheel horsepower has been made on NA-T 2JZ-GE cars with the distributor cap, I was curious how many have stuck with the dizzy or used a different ignition setp.. 
Last edited by dejacky; 07-14-11 at 09:23 AM.
07-14-11, 10:33 AM
#2
MK3 CPS + VVTi coilpacks for both preference, performance, and price. My manifold puts my intake pipe too close to the distributor and also the distributor was giving me issues with my ecu so I swapped over to this setup and it looks much better overall and the car seems to run better in regular driving. Best part is it uses all toyota parts and they are relatively inexpensive, as in cheaper than buying an ignition amplifier if you have the right ecu.
While the distributor can pump out high HP I was finding myself at low boost levels having to lower the gap on the plugs to keep things consistent. With the VVTi coilpacks I run the stock TT plug/gap (Iridium) and drop them in right out of the box and have not had any issues as before. after I adjusted the coil Dwell settings per Kurts thread, my idle noticeably improved and i think i may have picked back up a few of my missing mpg's.
While the distributor can pump out high HP I was finding myself at low boost levels having to lower the gap on the plugs to keep things consistent. With the VVTi coilpacks I run the stock TT plug/gap (Iridium) and drop them in right out of the box and have not had any issues as before. after I adjusted the coil Dwell settings per Kurts thread, my idle noticeably improved and i think i may have picked back up a few of my missing mpg's.
07-14-11, 11:11 PM
#4
standalone. It was having issues picking up the cam/crank signals from the distributor out of the blue and would misfire around and above 2100 rpms or so. not everyone has this problem though as mine worked fine for a while, but I think the excessive heat in that area had something to do with it and not to mention your spark is jumping from the rotor to the cap a few inches away from your cam/crank sensors. aftermarket ecus are very touchy about these signals having noise.
I really just got tired of the distributor in general and if you have a standalone or run a gte ecu on your na-t you can delete it, it works but 1 coil cannot compare to 3 coils that are all double in size. for $30 ignitor, $120 coils, $30 CPS and some wires I was able to upgrade. I read the supraforums thread on it and I agreed if the 7m cps has factory coilpacks then toyota must have designed that sensor pretty well to run that multplex crap, and the ecu seems to be picking up the signals again just fine. I have little to no hiccups anymore. the gear on the cam that drives both the cps and distributor does introduce some noise into the signal but all around it runs much better.
If you can pull the motor and install a TT oil pump with the crank sensor, you could just weld the cam sensor onto the head and use TT sensors, this will give you the cleanest signal on an na-t setup. you can optionally use a vvti head it already has a rear cam sensor from the factory. both of these require a standlone as the GTE ecu requires 2 cam sensors. you could weld both If you are so inclined. If you use the vvti head you have to machine a GTE cam to fit on the intake side and delete the vvti, or leave the vvti in place and control it somehow. A gte exhaust cam drops right in. compression ratio goes up slightly with the vvti head.
I really just got tired of the distributor in general and if you have a standalone or run a gte ecu on your na-t you can delete it, it works but 1 coil cannot compare to 3 coils that are all double in size. for $30 ignitor, $120 coils, $30 CPS and some wires I was able to upgrade. I read the supraforums thread on it and I agreed if the 7m cps has factory coilpacks then toyota must have designed that sensor pretty well to run that multplex crap, and the ecu seems to be picking up the signals again just fine. I have little to no hiccups anymore. the gear on the cam that drives both the cps and distributor does introduce some noise into the signal but all around it runs much better.
If you can pull the motor and install a TT oil pump with the crank sensor, you could just weld the cam sensor onto the head and use TT sensors, this will give you the cleanest signal on an na-t setup. you can optionally use a vvti head it already has a rear cam sensor from the factory. both of these require a standlone as the GTE ecu requires 2 cam sensors. you could weld both If you are so inclined. If you use the vvti head you have to machine a GTE cam to fit on the intake side and delete the vvti, or leave the vvti in place and control it somehow. A gte exhaust cam drops right in. compression ratio goes up slightly with the vvti head.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-14-11 at 11:15 PM.
07-15-11, 05:40 PM
#5
i dont see a problem with a distributor. ive seen plenty of distributor powered engines pushing high hp numbers and being abused at the track. if i ever went turbo i would probably keep the distributor for ign timing purposes...unless i got **** and wanted my engine bay to look clean
07-15-11, 09:01 PM
#6
I agree the distributor is capable of high power and can take plenty of abuse, but all around drivability with coil packs is improved. you can turn the CPS and adjust ignition timing exactly like the distributor. you are just getting rid of the whole spark jumping across rotor to cap, and dividing the work 1 coil has to do to 3 larger coils with much shorter coil wires, which allows for better dwell settings and delivers more spark energy. This in turn allows you to run larger gaps, get more complete combustion and therefore gain more power.
It doesn't matter to me what people choose, the distributor got the job done for me for over a year and I thought nothing of it, but once i rode in a car with the coilpacks I was suprised at the difference to say the least. After installing and running them myself, I can safely tell you any 2jzge I ever own will be getting the coilpacks. No aftermarket modules or amplifiers for me.
It doesn't matter to me what people choose, the distributor got the job done for me for over a year and I thought nothing of it, but once i rode in a car with the coilpacks I was suprised at the difference to say the least. After installing and running them myself, I can safely tell you any 2jzge I ever own will be getting the coilpacks. No aftermarket modules or amplifiers for me.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-15-11 at 09:09 PM.
07-16-11, 09:20 AM
#7
I agree the distributor is capable of high power and can take plenty of abuse, but all around drivability with coil packs is improved. you can turn the CPS and adjust ignition timing exactly like the distributor. you are just getting rid of the whole spark jumping across rotor to cap, and dividing the work 1 coil has to do to 3 larger coils with much shorter coil wires, which allows for better dwell settings and delivers more spark energy. This in turn allows you to run larger gaps, get more complete combustion and therefore gain more power.
It doesn't matter to me what people choose, the distributor got the job done for me for over a year and I thought nothing of it, but once i rode in a car with the coilpacks I was suprised at the difference to say the least. After installing and running them myself, I can safely tell you any 2jzge I ever own will be getting the coilpacks. No aftermarket modules or amplifiers for me.
It doesn't matter to me what people choose, the distributor got the job done for me for over a year and I thought nothing of it, but once i rode in a car with the coilpacks I was suprised at the difference to say the least. After installing and running them myself, I can safely tell you any 2jzge I ever own will be getting the coilpacks. No aftermarket modules or amplifiers for me.
Awesome info. I'm sure it seems like you keep having to repeat yourself over and over but it's hard to find solid feedback and insight on this forum on stuff like this.
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07-16-11, 11:29 AM
#8
Im getting to the point where i need to make the switch too. My car runs great sometimes, and ****ty others. I have a few different things to clear up as well but thats one thing i wanna do.
GTE ECU and coil packs for starters and then go to standalone when money gets prettier.
GTE ECU and coil packs for starters and then go to standalone when money gets prettier.
07-16-11, 05:08 PM
#9
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Im getting to the point where i need to make the switch too. My car runs great sometimes, and ****ty others. I have a few different things to clear up as well but thats one thing i wanna do.
GTE ECU and coil packs for starters and then go to standalone when money gets prettier.
GTE ECU and coil packs for starters and then go to standalone when money gets prettier.
07-16-11, 05:22 PM
#10
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i dont have much issues with my dizzy except it keeps getting in the way of my shiny turbo! but im low boost...
if you plan on running a decent size turbo its gonna have issues if you want to run an air filter.
in the future i'll go with vvti coil packs heard nothing but good things about it when done correctly
if you plan on running a decent size turbo its gonna have issues if you want to run an air filter.
in the future i'll go with vvti coil packs heard nothing but good things about it when done correctly
Last edited by broda805; 07-16-11 at 05:27 PM.
07-16-11, 08:01 PM
#11
I've run AEM + MSD 6A cdi + oem distributor cap for years and it always ran consistent. It ran fine without the cdi, but the cdi increase response and the car reved smoother. When you say your car runs ****ty, are you sure it's not something like the tune or some bad electrical connection / wiring related?
07-17-11, 01:41 AM
#12
you are right the stock distributor with a cdi will probably give you a similar effect as the coilpacks upgrade, but vvti coilpacks are still the better choice and no one has needed a dli yet. the cost of upgrading is not very different so I chose to upgrade the whole thing and get rid of the distributor. My 4" intake never fit properly with it in place even with the 4runner cap. That alone makes it all worth it to me.
I was thinking about running an TT oil pump and crank sensor for the crank signal, but instead of welding the cam sensor to the head I would just use the cam signal off the CPS. This way at least the crank signal would be cleaner. Seeing as the cam sensor is only 1 tooth i would think it picks up good enough.
I was thinking about running an TT oil pump and crank sensor for the crank signal, but instead of welding the cam sensor to the head I would just use the cam signal off the CPS. This way at least the crank signal would be cleaner. Seeing as the cam sensor is only 1 tooth i would think it picks up good enough.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-17-11 at 01:46 AM.
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