Bigzavs

iTrader: (4)

Here's the issue, I put the DLI off my NA-T up for sale since im swapping to a coil on plug setup. I was assured by a friend that it would not affect my tune in any way (running AEM v1). Well I took the car out today, and when trying to come into boost, the car breaks up horribly at 4k rpm's.

Another friend of mine compared my log from the dyno 2 weeks ago to his NA-T file. He could not see any differences in the ignition maps of the two files.

Is there a certain setting that might need to be changed? or something else that might be overlooked?

Thanks guys

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

what makes you think just because going cop eliminates the need for a dli .. are you using is300 coils with 7m dizzy .. or are you using gte coilpacks.. its still wasted spark via the aem v1

Bigzavs

iTrader: (4)

ill be using the 7m cps, vvti coilpacks, vvti ignitor

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

so your saying this happened right after you installed the vvti coils and 7m cps.
if so you gotta remember to correct your cal file for ignition phasing for coil 1 needs to be 21.53 not 22, and you gotta resync your timing. it will probably be off. you should also go under advanced cam/crank pickups and see if you are getting any timing errors while running or revving. if so there is something wrong with how the CPS is set up, if so double check your wiring.

Bigzavs

iTrader: (4)

actually havent done the vvti coil swap, im just back on stock ignition for another week or so till im done with my other engine harness.

a friend of mine did mention syncing the timing though.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

without the dli you will break up, but it depend on how much psi you are running and how much you gap the plugs.

You don't need DLI with VVTi and ignitor they are setup for wasted spark , just like the AEM V1.

i would just gap the plugs down a little till you install the vvti coils.

Bigzavs

iTrader: (4)

only running 11psi right now, and im on denso iridiums. ill go grab some copper plugs and put those in today.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

well if you needed it before what makes you think you wont need it now if you are still on the stock ignition

Yes, hes right you wont need it after you install the vvti coils, but you may need it before with the stock ignition system once you reach higher boost levels.

You shouldnt need a dli at 11 psi, the stock ignition system can go much past that . Keep The iridiums, you will eat through coppers faster. Just lower the gap down to around .026. Once you install the VVti coils you can run the stock gap.

Bigzavs

iTrader: (4)

Put in some coppers gapped at .025", that cured it, actually feels smoother without the DLI

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Im actually getting breakup in mine up until 3800 or so... runs like i have a misfire, Ive regapped my plugs... .32 on iridiums... guess i could try .26...

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

what boost and ignition system? if you are on the stock ignition system then i would run a tighter gap like .026 should get you good boost, .032 is too much gap for one coil pushing 6 cylinders through a distributor, I used to get breakup also till I pushed the gap down and the car pulled strong after. I would go with the Iridium's, the coppers are a pain unless you love changing plugs which is not fun with the stock manifold. both will perform similarly though.

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it got a little better at 26... ive read alot of peple run 20... I may try that, it still does it. Plus my EGT's are real high... Im not really running lean but i can tell its hot.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

.020 sounds a little extreme. If you are still missing at .026 then i would try .024, and if that doesn't cure it I would start looking at AFR's and timing as well as check/replace the cap and rotor with OEM toyota parts.
intake and EGT temps seem to run higher on the n/a, I blame the stock intake manifold.

lookEVO

iTrader: (1)

All my tuneup **** is done, replaced all the parts when i did my NA-t It was running great til all of a sudden it wasnt... makes me think its electrical or something... maybe my BOV too. I never changed timing, but i may look at it to see where its at. I havent had anytime to look at my car, so ive just been dealing with it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

when i was running 9 psi with the safc, i would have to reset the ecu like every 2 weeks. It would start to miss and sometimes detonate in boost if I went too long without a reset. sometimes I could tell from it giving me a really lean idle, like 15.5-16.0 AFR. I was running blowthrough so maybe thats why I kept freaking out the ecu, not sure but I know it is a common problem.
maybe give that a try disconnect the negative bat terminal for 5 minutes and see how it runs. Mine would run perfect again after every reset, and sometimes it would stay good for several weeks, sometimes only a week, but always would start to suck again. the safc saves its tune automatically is the only break you get in the whole reset situation. the better your safc is dialed in, the less the ecu will tend to freak out which means you can go longer between resets. good luck.

Edit** you should run a GTE ecu