if you didn't know the na-t 1101 cal file has problems, read over these.
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,19914.0.html
http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=534874

I have made all of these changes to my map, even the ignition phasing problem which you can wait till you go coil on plug to fix if you like but don't forget.
something you should do right away is changing injector #1 phasing value, it is completely wrong and solved months of trying to sort out idling and drive-ability issues.
If you, like me, had your car tuned already off this cal before you fixed everything you may not have the most optimal tune (oh well always room for improvement).
Also look at the individual cylinder fuel and timing trims, there are random values in some so zero them all out (unless you have widebands and knock sensors on each cylinder to properly set this up which if you do you should already know the problems in the thread..)

Anyways, I think I found a new problem. go to:
Setup -> Sensors -> Cam/Crank Sensors -> Advanced Cam/Crank -> Advanced Pickups

In the stock 1101 cal the Crank Rising edge and cam falling edge are checked.
If you look at the 1100 map, the crank and cam are both falling edge.

After doing some reading I think this might be wrong, there is an thread which says all toyota dizzy's use falling edge signals. does anyone know about this?
Even the AEM help menu says falling edge should be used for magnetic sensors. Seeing as the cam and crank sensors are identical in the distributer, Im starting to think this is another error, they should both be rising or both be falling.
Im gonna give it a shot and see if it clears up my last ignition issue.

heres the thread on toyota distributors and basically all toyota ignition systems.
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=10003

********* update **********
If you have the stock intake manifold, to get your ACIS (the butterfly in the manifold) to open and shut properly, you need to change the settings for LS5 output.
default is set to always on, which means the flap is always closed (I hate aem engineers).
Its not supossed to be on all the time, and can limit top end power and in regular driving conditions on part throttle, so basically another huge error.

just go to options > configure outputs and change ls5 to activate when over 30% throttle and under 4500 rpms, leave the rest as is.
What a difference!!! I have my top end back again now that the valve opens up above 4500 it feels great. I found the info for the output and setting courtesy of Kurt from supraforums here, I couldnt find any info on what output it was before reading this thread.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ntake-Manifold

He even has the dyno numbers to show the difference. I will never knock the stock intake manifold again, It does have a purpose!!
I wouldn't trust it over 20 psi though, just in case its true that it can shatter at higher boost levels.

******** update 08/17/2011 ************
instead of having to read through all my tests and thoughts I will list the settings you need to use for cam/crank for stock dizzy and 7mcps

Stock Dizzy
falling edge on both cam and crank (will require resync of timing).
crank H sens below: 2000 rpm
crank L sens above: 1900 rpm
cam high sens below: 2000 rpm
cam low sens above: 1900 rpm
speed sensor you can leave same 1300/1200

7M CPS
falling edge on both cam and crank (will require resync of timing).
crank H sens below: 6000 rpm
crank L sens above: 6000 rpm
cam high sens below: 6000 rpm
cam low sens above: 6000 rpm
speed sensor you can leave same 1300/1200

 

yeah, so I just went out and changed it. you have to resync your timing afterwards.
good thing I have a timing light.

with the rising edge checked (original wrong setup):
@ 10 deg on the Aem, I saw ~9 deg on the crank.
@ 14 deg on the Aem, I saw ~10 deg on the crank.

It doesn't add up does it, this is why I was even looking through the cal in the first place.
when I switched it from rising to falling edge, the timing went from 14 deg to ~0 degrees looking on the crank, the aem still thinks its at 14 degrees though (a little scary to be idling at 0 degrees, sounded like a boat but still idling).
Went into setup ignition timing, and rsynced it so that 10 deg on aem = 10 on crank (added a lot of advance).

so with the falling edge checked:
@ 10 deg on the Aem, I saw ~10 deg on the crank.
@ 14 deg on the Aem, I saw ~14 deg on the crank.

So this leads me to believe that the aem was not accurately controlling the timing before based off the rising edge, which makes alot of sense. I suppose in theory you could run either way if you tune for it, but I don't think 1 sensor should be rising and the other sensor falling, it just doesnt make any sense and the car drives alot better now. I can actually use 2nd gear from a stop now, something I couldn't do before without a whole lot of jerking and bucking. it seems a little touchy when fully warmed up and sitting still, but i think it has something to do with the crank H/L sens above/below settings. didnt test that out yet.

 

I think the numbers for these are wrong too.
the 1001 cal:
crank H sens below: 2000 rpm
crank L sens above: 1900 rpm
cam high sens below: 500 rpm
cam low sens above: 400 rpm

1100 cal:
crank H sens below: 500 rpm
crank L sens above: 400 rpm
cam high sens below: 500 rpm
cam low sens above: 400 rpm

gonna try changing it to 500 and 400 like the TT cal says. will update with results.

**edit** update
car does not seem to like the 500/400 settings for the crank. this sensitivity is too low.
but changing the cam to 2000/1900 doesn't seem to have any effect.
I feel like the cam should be 2000/1900 like the crank, the difference due to distributor pickups vs the large gte pickups.
for example the 7m-gte which uses a similar setup has values of 6000/6000 for both cam and crank.
I don't see a problem in leaving these numbers like they originally were, but i am going with 2000/1900.

 

Any updates on this with the changes made to the cam high/low sens values?? Good post BTW!

 

Ali your the man bro i wished you lived around FLA

 

Yeah i run the falling edge on both (will require resync of timing).
crank H sens below: 2000 rpm
crank L sens above: 1900 rpm
cam high sens below: 2000 rpm
cam low sens above: 1900 rpm
speed sensor you can leave same 1300/1200

This is what i run and the timing marks are always on spot at idle rpms (you can set fixed timing number under ignition sync to test out different numbers).
I wouldn't mind checking out the accuracy above 2000rpm's, but I'll leave that for the guys with dynos.

oh and while you are at this you might as well change the ignition phasing number from 22 to 21.53 for ignition tooth #1 if you haven't done so already (you already have the timing light out, after you change this number a big change in timing will occur similar to changing from rising to falling, so be ready to quickly sync the ignition with the light).
I have a long extension cable on my laptop so I just set it on the passenger strut tower and use one hand to hold the light and the other to click the advance or retard button till it matched up. easy as that.

 

Wanted to add I finally went with a coil on plug setup.
when using the base of the distributor to run the coils, no matter which settings I chose for the crank/cam high low values I would pick up a few timing errors along a regular drive. a little better than the distributor setup alone but not perfect.

Now I've switched to the 7m-gte cps and I was having a similar situation, but with the 7M CPS I figured out you can run high sensitivity on both cam and crank to 6000rpms. for some reason these settings wouldn't work for me with the 2jzge distributor, once again I suspect the 7M CPS has larger sensors and tighter air gaps.
setting all 4 to 6000 rpms (the cam/crank high and low settings) like it is in the 1130 cal file (for a 7m-gte), resulted in me not getting any timing errors for my first test drive (i was shocked, i always get a few).

Im hoping this solves timing error related issues on na-t setups in a simple fashion.
It also makes me feel better that the aem can read this CPS in high sensitivity mode.

conclusion (Updated 08/28/2013):
turns out the distributor is actually more sensitive than the CPS which is the opposite of what I had previously wrote.
The aem descriptions are very inaccurate.

high sensitivity means its looking for a small amplitude waveform, which the 7m cps puts out a smaller signal from 0-redline and does not ramp up a whole lot in amplitude with rpm's so you can set high sensitivity all the way to 6000rpm's, so in short the AEM has to use high sensitivity to pick up a low signal.

low sensitivity means its looking for a larger amlpitude signal, as with most distributors the signal increases alot with rpm's (stock variable reluctance sensors not custom hall sensor setups), so in short the AEM looks for a larger signal and doesn't have to be as sensitive because the distributor is putting out a stronger signal.

The stock distributor needs the numbers are 2000/1900 because it goes from a smaller signal requiring higher seneitivity (like the cps) under 2k, but over 2k the distrubutor puts out a larger signal than the cps, so the ems has to start looking for a larger signal now requiring lower sensitivity. If it were to use high sensitivity all the time when the signal is large, you would get false triggers by the software and the motor will stop running basically.

So the distributor is actually in some ways a better sensor than the CPS, sorry guys I thought it was the other way around at first but the 2jzge distributor is not all bad, its just not as aesthetically pleasing as the 7m cps.

you can use either one really, they will both get the job done on a standalone. just make sure to use the correct settings as listed in the first post.

 

This is some good info. For some reason, I dont have any issues with timing errors with the stock distributor. I also run Falling edge for cam and crank sensors.

Lawrence

 

Ali did you the timing errors while cranking? I had the timing errors while trying driving everytime i rev to 3k rpm this was on my SC and it because i wasn't getting a good crank signal.
I get a timing error everytime i crank it over!! i will redo the crank and cam sensors wiring i think that's what the problem is.

 

Some distributors have better air gaps than others on the sensors (they are not adjustable on the 2jz distributor), alot of things play into it like age, how good the main bearing has held up inside the distributor, and heat from the turbo can weaken the magnets over time. Thats good that you are not picking up any, there was definately something wrong with my distributor towards the end but early on in my na-t it seemed ok.

im getting no errors now during cranking or running or boosting with the 7m cps on high sensitivity.
previously i would pick up 1 or so during cranking and it would grow while driving.

 

ok how about before we installed the 7M CPS on it?