Realistic HP/TQ Gains
10-30-08, 07:59 PM
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Realistic HP/TQ Gains
I just got my 92 SC400. I don't plan on going all out for engine/performance mods, but I would like to do a few "real world" things. I'm not looking for a 12 second car, but a little more oomph would be great.
What kinds of things would I need to do to get an extra 10-30hp (or more?) but being practical at the same time (no superchargers or turbos). I read that intellexual site (spelling?) but I didn't see many hp gains other than swapping out the headers, which said roughly 20rwhp gain.
And please don't say, "it's not worth the money, get a XX car for that." I got the car for such a crazy deal I can afford to put a little more money into it.
Thanks in advance !
What kinds of things would I need to do to get an extra 10-30hp (or more?) but being practical at the same time (no superchargers or turbos). I read that intellexual site (spelling?) but I didn't see many hp gains other than swapping out the headers, which said roughly 20rwhp gain.
And please don't say, "it's not worth the money, get a XX car for that." I got the car for such a crazy deal I can afford to put a little more money into it.
Thanks in advance !
10-30-08, 08:09 PM
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Oh yea, I did use the search feature, but it's taking me hours just to weed through so many posts to get a couple real world answers.
Again, thanks in advance for any help !
Again, thanks in advance for any help !
10-30-08, 08:14 PM
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Hacked CL to become a Mod
my headers + full exhaust felt like 8-10hp gain...no BFI, or intake mod...not blinding fast but do make the car feel 'lighter'
1hp for about $250...I went full stainless crazy
1hp for about $250...I went full stainless crazy
Last edited by Kaydee; 10-30-08 at 08:21 PM.
10-30-08, 09:37 PM
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Wonder why intellexual.net claims the headers alone will give you 20rwhp+20rwtq. Is that too optimistic?
"The second option for V8 headers is HFVS Shorty headers sourced by Jbrady of ClubLexus. These are also made of mild steel and also offer ceramic coating. They cost $400 without ceramic, and under $600 with. Estimated gains are +20 rwhp and rwtq. These were offered domestically in a special group buy, so I am unaware of the current availability with the fabricator."
10-30-08, 11:28 PM
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Hacked CL to become a Mod
headers that will maximize gains are always long tube headers (the ones I have)...20 units gain? possibly...I don't dyno my car and it may have gained that much but all dreaming aside, it does not feel like 20 hp crank gain, let alone wheel gain...but who knows? bear in mind that I don't have any intake mod whatsoever aside from K&N filter, so that may help a bit
11-02-08, 09:26 PM
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What exhaust do you guys recommend? Do I need new headers when I replace the exhaust? Also how much would it cost for someone to do all this?
I have no tools nor the "know-how" when it comes to this stuff, so I will be paying for it to be done.
11-02-08, 11:09 PM
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Gaining 10-30 rwhp isnt hard on an early SC400. The pre-96 1UZs are known for dynoing poor numbers (usually around 180 rwhp), usually of no fault of their own. The early SC4s are notorious for their poor exhaust design, and thats usually the best place to start. Combined with a total exhaust system and intake, will probably reach +15 rwhp.
Beyond exhaust and intake, things start getting exponentially more expensive. Upgrading the torque converter to a higher stall will push your power up significantly, as well as delivering better low end response. By this point, you're probably dynoing well above 200 rwhp so an LSD starts to become more prudent. It might not make much of a difference on a dyno, but in real world it'll definately help put the power down to the pavement.
Many tuners like to use a piggy-back ecu to extract more power by tricking the engine, though understand this will increase the wear-and-tear on engine. I would highly recommend staying away from NOS due to the dangers involved. If its installed incorrectly or if you begging knocking/detonation, it could be a matter of seconds before a piston cracks and you destroy your entire engine.
Here's my guesstimate rwhp vs mods:
Stock 92': 180 rwhp
Headers: 188-190 rwhp
Full exhaust and intake: 190-195 rwhp
High-stall TC: 205-210 rwhp
LSD: 210-215 rwhp
piggy-back ECU: 220-230 rwhp
NOS: unknown
Beyond exhaust and intake, things start getting exponentially more expensive. Upgrading the torque converter to a higher stall will push your power up significantly, as well as delivering better low end response. By this point, you're probably dynoing well above 200 rwhp so an LSD starts to become more prudent. It might not make much of a difference on a dyno, but in real world it'll definately help put the power down to the pavement.
Many tuners like to use a piggy-back ecu to extract more power by tricking the engine, though understand this will increase the wear-and-tear on engine. I would highly recommend staying away from NOS due to the dangers involved. If its installed incorrectly or if you begging knocking/detonation, it could be a matter of seconds before a piston cracks and you destroy your entire engine.
Here's my guesstimate rwhp vs mods:
Stock 92': 180 rwhp
Headers: 188-190 rwhp
Full exhaust and intake: 190-195 rwhp
High-stall TC: 205-210 rwhp
LSD: 210-215 rwhp
piggy-back ECU: 220-230 rwhp
NOS: unknown
11-03-08, 01:01 AM
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Gaining 10-30 rwhp isnt hard on an early SC400. The pre-96 1UZs are known for dynoing poor numbers (usually around 180 rwhp), usually of no fault of their own. The early SC4s are notorious for their poor exhaust design, and thats usually the best place to start. Combined with a total exhaust system and intake, will probably reach +15 rwhp.
Beyond exhaust and intake, things start getting exponentially more expensive. Upgrading the torque converter to a higher stall will push your power up significantly, as well as delivering better low end response. By this point, you're probably dynoing well above 200 rwhp so an LSD starts to become more prudent. It might not make much of a difference on a dyno, but in real world it'll definately help put the power down to the pavement.
Many tuners like to use a piggy-back ecu to extract more power by tricking the engine, though understand this will increase the wear-and-tear on engine. I would highly recommend staying away from NOS due to the dangers involved. If its installed incorrectly or if you begging knocking/detonation, it could be a matter of seconds before a piston cracks and you destroy your entire engine.
Here's my guesstimate rwhp vs mods:
Stock 92': 180 rwhp
Headers: 188-190 rwhp
Full exhaust and intake: 190-195 rwhp
High-stall TC: 205-210 rwhp
LSD: 210-215 rwhp
piggy-back ECU: 220-230 rwhp
NOS: unknown
Beyond exhaust and intake, things start getting exponentially more expensive. Upgrading the torque converter to a higher stall will push your power up significantly, as well as delivering better low end response. By this point, you're probably dynoing well above 200 rwhp so an LSD starts to become more prudent. It might not make much of a difference on a dyno, but in real world it'll definately help put the power down to the pavement.
Many tuners like to use a piggy-back ecu to extract more power by tricking the engine, though understand this will increase the wear-and-tear on engine. I would highly recommend staying away from NOS due to the dangers involved. If its installed incorrectly or if you begging knocking/detonation, it could be a matter of seconds before a piston cracks and you destroy your entire engine.
Here's my guesstimate rwhp vs mods:
Stock 92': 180 rwhp
Headers: 188-190 rwhp
Full exhaust and intake: 190-195 rwhp
High-stall TC: 205-210 rwhp
LSD: 210-215 rwhp
piggy-back ECU: 220-230 rwhp
NOS: unknown
What do you recommend for headers and full exhaust? How much do they typically cost to install?
Also will a high-stall TC create more wear and tear? I'm really only looking for mods that won't necessarily reduce fuel efficiency and/or drivetrain life. Like I said, I'm not necessarily looking for a 10 second track car, just want my SC400 to perform to it's fullest potential without hurting her.
11-03-08, 06:41 AM
#15
LSD doesn't create more power, just lets you lay down what you have more effectively.
Your biggest gains I think are from a tune when you have some bolt ons.
If you really want to get crazy, do what some of us are doing... manual swap (frees up drive train loss) and forced induction.
Your biggest gains I think are from a tune when you have some bolt ons.
If you really want to get crazy, do what some of us are doing... manual swap (frees up drive train loss) and forced induction.