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Crank Pulley Options with 2jz-gte

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Old 02-06-08, 02:49 PM
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bio3m
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Default Crank Pulley Options with 2jz-gte

Im pretty much out of money and found out today that my crank pulley is about to bite the dust. What options are there for a new one?
Will this one work or is it BS?
Old 02-06-08, 02:59 PM
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Kruso
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I have the same pulley in silver... received it as a part of a major swap I purchased. It looks flimsy and too light to balance anything. You should buy mine if you're going to go that route...brand new and I'm never going to install it.

Kruso
Old 02-07-08, 06:15 AM
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got_trd
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I recommend this one-
http://www.titanmotorsports.com/titmotdamcra.html
Old 02-07-08, 01:35 PM
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DKNY0331
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Holly **** that tian is mad exspensive
Old 02-07-08, 01:47 PM
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5sp_jzz30
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uhm why would you want a damped pulley? the whole point is to reduce the reciprocating weight of the motor. i dont think you will ever see a racing motor with a damped crank pulley for two reasons: size, weight, and the fact that most racing motors have been balanced prior to assembly eliminating a need for any type of harmonic balancer. thats 3 reasons but oh well.

it a waste of money to buy the titan motorcrap pulley.

what is your basis for stating that the aluminum pulley is flimsy? have you ran it and it failed on you? any "actual" test to prove its weakness?

hey Kruso if you dont want that pulley PM me ill take it off your hands
Old 02-07-08, 02:43 PM
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Gunnar
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I've had an Unorthodox lightweight crank pulley on my car for a while now with no ill effects (knock on wood)
Old 02-07-08, 07:56 PM
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got_trd
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Originally Posted by 5sp_jzz30
uhm why would you want a damped pulley? the whole point is to reduce the reciprocating weight of the motor. i dont think you will ever see a racing motor with a damped crank pulley for two reasons: size, weight, and the fact that most racing motors have been balanced prior to assembly eliminating a need for any type of harmonic balancer. thats 3 reasons but oh well.

it a waste of money to buy the titan motorcrap pulley.

what is your basis for stating that the aluminum pulley is flimsy? have you ran it and it failed on you? any "actual" test to prove its weakness?

hey Kruso if you dont want that pulley PM me ill take it off your hands
You pretty much answered your own question. So how many people on this forum have a "racing motor" that was built, blueprinted, and balanced? Probably not even a dozen. And those dozen people dont even post.

Too each its own though.. I would either use the ATI or BL pulley on the next motor.

Last edited by got_trd; 02-07-08 at 08:05 PM.
Old 02-07-08, 09:56 PM
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5sp_jzz30
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^^^ so what is your justification for getting that pulley. have you ever taken apart a motor and actually balanced a stock crank and rods to see how much they are off from a perfect balance?

i have. i have done a few import motors and **** load of VW/audi/4AGE motors. the factory balancing is actually very good. when i balanced a 7M and sr20 cranks they were off about 5g from stock. 5g is about on indentation of a drill bit about 1/4" size and down enough to make a divit. on the 7M crank i had i was suprised how little modification i had to do.

trust they are not necessary as much as people think.
Old 02-08-08, 02:54 AM
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motorheaddown
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Not to flame here, but a static balance has little to do with the function of a crank "dampener". It's purpose is to dampen the rotational vibrations associated with the forces applied by each rod during combustion. The amount of twist increases as a function of the distance from the flywheel: http://www.atiperformanceproducts.co...mper_dinan.htm

Additionally, like all mechanical parts, a crank has a natural frequency - even in the rotational axis, and it varys as a function of frequency. A dampener attenuates the vibrations due to the natural frequencies and harmonics of the crank, as well.

A static balance only addresses the minor issue here - rotational imbalance. It will not address the pounding a crank takes due to the impulse forces applied by the rod (and associated harmonics) which is a much greater contributor to crank vibration.

-scott

Last edited by motorheaddown; 02-08-08 at 03:14 AM.
Old 02-08-08, 05:04 AM
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plex
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ATI FTMFW, I got mine cheaper than what a new one would cost at Lexus.
Old 02-09-08, 06:04 PM
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bio3m
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Well, to get back on the subject, its a 2 piece deal, the inner ring had completely come apart. I just took it off and welded that ***** together..............NICE
Old 02-11-08, 07:47 AM
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vipsoarer
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Im with motorheaddown, using a crank dampener is key. The proper way to do a motor balancing is to have every part in the rotational mass balanced at the same time. This includes crank, flywheel, crank pulley, then using weights to substitute for rods/pistons after they have already been balanced.

A lot of people talk about how they have done things, but the question is have they done it the correct way... sometimes, sometimes not. I think titan and boostlogic are proof enough in that they are pretty well built motors and, correct me if im wrong, but they all use crank dampeners not underdrive pulleys.
Old 02-12-08, 11:37 AM
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bio3m
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i dont know why it is key to have a dampened one, ive owned countless cars without a dampened pulley
Old 02-12-08, 11:48 AM
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2.5tsoarer
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^^ Same here, I've had the Cheap ebay Crank Pulley for 3 years now on my 1jz w/o any issues.
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