1jz swap how-to, hopefully a sticky... eventually
12-19-07, 10:55 PM
#1
1jz swap how-to, hopefully a sticky... eventually
-ALL of the wiring going in through the firewall on the passenger side have to be extended 18-23 inches as the JDM harness is only long enough to fit in a RHD model...these connect to PCM and body electronics.
Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack
-Swap Alternators (use USDM GE)...unless your swap comes with the alternator harness which is highly unlikely.
-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way
-Swap AC compressors (use USDM GE) ours is shot so we'll have to get a remanufactured or new one
-Use 94+ mk4 Supra TT throttle cable and use 94+ mk4 Supra TT Cruise control cable...you wont need the servo motor just the cable
-If your swap is auto you will need to take the bracket that holds the Cruise and Throttle cables and slide it back one bolt hole towards firewall so that you can correctly fasten both cables in place
-If using the stock Soarer sidemount the section of intercooler tubing that goes from the side mount to the intake manifold may require you to use two sections of intercooler piping and a 45 degree coupler for temporary use until you do a front mount.
-If going from Auto to 5/6 speed during swap be sure to purchase/resurface flywheel and purchase appropriate power/torque capacity clutch.
-Use 1jz power steering reservoir
-If using the heater core be sure to route the coolant hoses accordingly between the firewall and 1jz head
-If the swap is auto but will be converted to manual, plan on disconnecting the relay wire to the starter. You'll need to cut the connector from the end of that wire, be sure to safely cover the cut end as it does still have power going through it and run your own wire to the ignition switch harness reusing the connector on the starter end.
-REPLACE THE WATER PUMP...Use a 94+ mk4 Supra TT one as chances are the JDM one will leak once US spec coolant flows through it. I can almost guarantee yours will leak once US spec coolant goes through it, jap spec gaskets are different.
-REPLACE THE TIMING BELT...might aswell while doing the water pump and for safety precaution
-REPLACE THE SPARK PLUGS...exact mileage sometimes is not accurate
-Change OIL and Filter before starting the car once swap is completed
-Make sure you pay close attention to all of the items that require a vacuum connection for when you finally get the 1jz mounted you can reconnect them
-Change the Fuel Pump, while stock pump is good enough just go for walbro 255 while doing the swap
-If the swap is auto but going into a 5 speed car you must cut off the speed sensor harness from the GE then you must cut the one on the GTE and solder the GE piece so that it will connect to the sensor on the transmission
-We are still trying to find our solution to not having reverse lights...will edit when we correct this
-The tach and temp guages will not work until you complete some wiring changes at the cluster harness...will update this one as well… for the temp, you should already know the easy fix, esp since its on youtube, and for the temp, just ground the brown wire that is next to a purple/pink wire and a black wire(I think)… -To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.
The CEL needs to be wired, solve this by… -Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working. I just cut the blue/yellow wire and soldered them together so I wouldn’t have to deal with changing out pins, and it works just fine.
you can check for codes by jumping TE1 and E1 on the diagnostics port (this will come in handy). Use this: http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me.../1113/862.html
-The airbag light stays on so i'll update this one as well
-The engine will no rev past 3,000rpm....will update this too
These two were fixed by clipping the black wire on the white body plug next to the orange one (keep in mind, this is for a 95’ car, I believe its different on older ones), but you may have starter issues with this, I wired mine directly to the battery with a flip switch.
…During my swap, I coulnt rev over 3-4k rpms, I got a code 12 signal, bought the replacement cam position sensors, and didn’t need them once I clipped the black wire on the white body plug next to the orange one.
I sent my ECU to JestR tuning in Orlando and had Edrick change some bad caps on the Ecu to see if this would solve any issues , it didn’t solve them but I feel better knowing that the ECU is in better shape, and for $50, it was well worth it.
Also, be careful with your shifter when taking out the stock motor and tranny if you have a stock 5speed, we managed to bend mine slightly to the passenger side of the car, no biggie but I would have rather not done this.
For now , this is gonna be on the back burner since i wrecked my car on 12-26-07 but once ive comlpeted the second 1jz swap into a new SC, I'm sure i'll have plenty more info.
Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack
-Swap Alternators (use USDM GE)...unless your swap comes with the alternator harness which is highly unlikely.
-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way
-Swap AC compressors (use USDM GE) ours is shot so we'll have to get a remanufactured or new one
-Use 94+ mk4 Supra TT throttle cable and use 94+ mk4 Supra TT Cruise control cable...you wont need the servo motor just the cable
-If your swap is auto you will need to take the bracket that holds the Cruise and Throttle cables and slide it back one bolt hole towards firewall so that you can correctly fasten both cables in place
-If using the stock Soarer sidemount the section of intercooler tubing that goes from the side mount to the intake manifold may require you to use two sections of intercooler piping and a 45 degree coupler for temporary use until you do a front mount.
-If going from Auto to 5/6 speed during swap be sure to purchase/resurface flywheel and purchase appropriate power/torque capacity clutch.
-Use 1jz power steering reservoir
-If using the heater core be sure to route the coolant hoses accordingly between the firewall and 1jz head
-If the swap is auto but will be converted to manual, plan on disconnecting the relay wire to the starter. You'll need to cut the connector from the end of that wire, be sure to safely cover the cut end as it does still have power going through it and run your own wire to the ignition switch harness reusing the connector on the starter end.
-REPLACE THE WATER PUMP...Use a 94+ mk4 Supra TT one as chances are the JDM one will leak once US spec coolant flows through it. I can almost guarantee yours will leak once US spec coolant goes through it, jap spec gaskets are different.
-REPLACE THE TIMING BELT...might aswell while doing the water pump and for safety precaution
-REPLACE THE SPARK PLUGS...exact mileage sometimes is not accurate
-Change OIL and Filter before starting the car once swap is completed
-Make sure you pay close attention to all of the items that require a vacuum connection for when you finally get the 1jz mounted you can reconnect them
-Change the Fuel Pump, while stock pump is good enough just go for walbro 255 while doing the swap
-If the swap is auto but going into a 5 speed car you must cut off the speed sensor harness from the GE then you must cut the one on the GTE and solder the GE piece so that it will connect to the sensor on the transmission
-We are still trying to find our solution to not having reverse lights...will edit when we correct this
-The tach and temp guages will not work until you complete some wiring changes at the cluster harness...will update this one as well… for the temp, you should already know the easy fix, esp since its on youtube, and for the temp, just ground the brown wire that is next to a purple/pink wire and a black wire(I think)… -To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.
The CEL needs to be wired, solve this by… -Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working. I just cut the blue/yellow wire and soldered them together so I wouldn’t have to deal with changing out pins, and it works just fine.
you can check for codes by jumping TE1 and E1 on the diagnostics port (this will come in handy). Use this: http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me.../1113/862.html
-The airbag light stays on so i'll update this one as well
-The engine will no rev past 3,000rpm....will update this too
These two were fixed by clipping the black wire on the white body plug next to the orange one (keep in mind, this is for a 95’ car, I believe its different on older ones), but you may have starter issues with this, I wired mine directly to the battery with a flip switch.
…During my swap, I coulnt rev over 3-4k rpms, I got a code 12 signal, bought the replacement cam position sensors, and didn’t need them once I clipped the black wire on the white body plug next to the orange one.
I sent my ECU to JestR tuning in Orlando and had Edrick change some bad caps on the Ecu to see if this would solve any issues , it didn’t solve them but I feel better knowing that the ECU is in better shape, and for $50, it was well worth it.
Also, be careful with your shifter when taking out the stock motor and tranny if you have a stock 5speed, we managed to bend mine slightly to the passenger side of the car, no biggie but I would have rather not done this.
For now , this is gonna be on the back burner since i wrecked my car on 12-26-07 but once ive comlpeted the second 1jz swap into a new SC, I'm sure i'll have plenty more info.
Last edited by CCC-TT; 01-24-08 at 05:31 PM.
12-20-07, 03:49 AM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: FLA, USA
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Wow! you did the swap by yourself?....
remember to always give credit/be appreciative to those who help you out in life. It speaks volume of your integrity and values as a young adult bobby
anyhow the reason for this seperate thread is because of the clutter and misinformation in the other thread where i posted this:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=52
hope this helps all you guys out there having issues or wanting to do this swap. Thanks
-Dan
remember to always give credit/be appreciative to those who help you out in life. It speaks volume of your integrity and values as a young adult bobby
anyhow the reason for this seperate thread is because of the clutter and misinformation in the other thread where i posted this:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=52
hope this helps all you guys out there having issues or wanting to do this swap. Thanks
-Dan
12-20-07, 05:52 AM
#3
Lexus Champion
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: South Florida
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The reason why there is so much misleading info on this swap is because Tim told Dan and Dan started spreading the good word (at least he thought it was good)to everyone else, but by the time the news reached Dan it was all mixed up .I've swapped these motors too many times to not know what im doing .Your last thread was full of people giving wrong information .I did not want to say anything because they felt like were 100% correct .I know that your are happy with the results now and can actually enjoy the swap . I helped you out because you did not give up and you were determined to get it right .In my book thats a big 
Goodluck with your future mods.
Goodluck with your future mods.
12-20-07, 06:59 AM
#5
Wow! you did the swap by yourself?....
remember to always give credit/be appreciative to those who help you out in life. It speaks volume of your integrity and values as a young adult bobby
anyhow the reason for this seperate thread is because of the clutter and misinformation in the other thread where i posted this:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=52
hope this helps all you guys out there having issues or wanting to do this swap. Thanks
-Dan
remember to always give credit/be appreciative to those who help you out in life. It speaks volume of your integrity and values as a young adult bobby
anyhow the reason for this seperate thread is because of the clutter and misinformation in the other thread where i posted this:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=52
hope this helps all you guys out there having issues or wanting to do this swap. Thanks
-Dan
12-20-07, 11:24 AM
#6
Pole Position
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: FL
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You can use a Camry throttle cable like 92-94, and you can use a Sc400 power steering res. Quick question on why you cut the speed plug off of the stock motor and put it on the new motor? It is going from Auto - 5spd but, I didn't have to do anything to get my speedo to work.
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12-21-07, 08:52 AM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2007
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Ok guys, I am waiting... lol.. Good job on the list! I am going to be installing the sc300 cluster soon, and will be really happy to fix the temp guage and the tach! Also the CEL and others. let me know all the electrical stuff I need to do.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
12-25-07, 09:32 AM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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can you maybe add some additional info on doing it on an sc400.it would be great just to have all the info on both models so there is a single thread to look at.thanks again for all your info!!!!
06-27-08, 11:23 AM
#15
Lexus Champion
ok sorry for bring this back from the dead but... i might be getting a auto 1jz-gte engine, my question is, will the ecu work with my 5-speed? or will my 5-speed 2jz-ge ecu work with the 1jz motor?
i see "If the swap is auto but going into a 5 speed car you must cut off the speed sensor harness from the GE then you must cut the one on the GTE and solder the GE piece so that it will connect to the sensor on the transmission" but i just want to make sure that no engine light or misfire or anything will occure. please let me know
i see "If the swap is auto but going into a 5 speed car you must cut off the speed sensor harness from the GE then you must cut the one on the GTE and solder the GE piece so that it will connect to the sensor on the transmission" but i just want to make sure that no engine light or misfire or anything will occure. please let me know