KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,

I had posted a thread before about my mod list, but my plans have significantly changed so I've decided to start over. Hope no one minds.

I plan on supercharging via a vortech v-9 and the fish bracket found here.
http://www.lextreme.com/supercharger-bracket.html

I just got the v-9 in the mail today. Some pics.



The plan so far. The v-9 of course.

I'm planning to start off with 5-7psi of boost. I am going to use the smallest pulley size I can without belt slippage and regulate boost pressure using a turbo wastegate (thanks to Blizzy for this idea) on the intake. Using a wastegate will, in theory, allow me to use a small pulley for early boost and then dump excess boost the engine can't handle. It will also allow me to have my desired full boost for a wider part of the rpm band, rather than only having full boost at max rpm.

Later on, if I decide that 5-7psi isn't enough, I will get a piggy/back dyno tune along with the instalation of these. Then, of course, I would change the wastgate spring to 8-12 psi.

Those are Supra MKIII NA injectors. They are 315cc (stock is 251cc) and they are a direct fit to the 4.0.

One thing that is required in order to use the fish bracket / vortech setup is battery relocation. Also, fuse box needs to be "turned". I have already completed these tasks and have lots of pics which I'll will post up tommorow.

I will use a bypass or BOV. Haven't decided which yet.

Will be using a FMIC. Still need to source along with piping.

Will use a tuned piggyback regardless of wether or not I decide to up the boost (why wouldn't I up the boost?). Have not decided what piggy back to use yet. Also, I am looking into the Adaptronic full ecu.

Need to figure out what to do for oil feed and return.

I am debating on wether or not an FMU is needed untill I get tuned.

That's it for now on the supercharger. Comments, suggestions welcome.

Using EKT headers. Will post a bunch of pics once I get them.

A dragon TQ is going in. Also changing the egr pipe, motor mounts, trans mount, rear main seal, and trans front pump seal while I have the tranny out. May do this next weekend.


Small trans cooler.


I bought Blizzy's diff, the one he removed from his car, and sourced a Supra auto TT Torsen LSD unit from Titan Motorsports. Put that together yesterday at work.

Couple of pics of diff disamssembly.



Pic of assembled diff with stock 3.92 gear and Torsen LSD.


That's what I got for now, comments welcome.

KC

fwynn

iTrader: (1)

wow
just wow :]
good luck!

SC400TT

iTrader: (4)

Great project! Looking forward to seeing how it comes out for you...Another boosted V8. Glad you got some assistance from Blizzy, he seems to know, quite well, what he is doing....
Ryan

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I'll likely need it.


Thanks.

Blizzy and I have been PMing back and forth for a while now. We have been a very valuable resource to each other.

SC400TT, where did you tap for an oil drain line?

Thanks,

KC

SC400TT

iTrader: (4)

Upper oil pan...It is a great location, but you have to remove it and clean it to weld it so as not to leak. That requires you to drop the engine...

I learned that the hard way, no matter what we did, it leaked. so, the new engine will, not have that problem. I will post up pics once I get it back from the chromer...

Ryan

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Ryan,

Wow, a bit more to it than I had thought.

I didn't beleive you at first, shame on me, you've been there done that. So, I decided to put my car on the lift and check it out. I wouldn't say it would be impossible to tap the upper pan without removal, but removing it and welding on a bung would be a much better way to do it.

Did you tap / bung the front of the upper pan or the side?

What do you mean by "drop" the engine?

Not really a big deal, just changes the plans some.

I had been waiting for my headers to arrive to install my torque converter, mounts, and seals, but now I have a new plan.

I will install the TQ, mounts, seals, and the LSD on Friday. When I get my headers, I will drop the front suspension with the crossmember to allow access to both the upper pan and the exhaust manifolds. I will remove the pan and have a bung welded on. Will likely plug it untill I'm ready for its use.

BTW, I will post the battery / fuse box relocation pics soon, time just keeps getting away from me..

Thanks,

Khris

SC400TT

iTrader: (4)

Please see my answers below in red...

Ryan

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

so what does the diff fluid smell like?

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

Seems like the few guys who bought the fish bracket are going to have some fun One being me haha.

Project looks good man!

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Looks like a good project man - good luck with it

Jonny

MightyAl

I am definitely following your project because it is what I want to do. Looks good so far.

Also those are not supra mk3 turbo injecters they are N/A. The turbo injectors are low impedance 440s...the NA's are high impedance 315s.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Guys,

Update and those batt relocation pics I've been promising

Updates: Yesterday, I installed my torque converter and my LSD modded diff. Also rear main seal, transmission front pump seal, and my transmission mount. Sorry, no pics. I wasn't planning on doing the installation till Friday so I didn't bring the camera. It was slow at work so I decided to go for it.

Installation went pretty smooth, my car does have some corrosion but I only broke one bolt.

After install, I now have a horrible bearing growl that only happens when I accelerate fairly hard from a stop. I am about 95% sure that the noise is coming from the center driveshaft bearing. I ordered one and should have it and install it tomorrow.

I haven't really pushed too hard yet, I figure the TQ needs some break in and with the noise I have I've been taking it easy, but so far I am not sure I am impressed by the torque converter. Just not quite the neck snapping difference I was hoping for. It drives differently for sure, just not too impressed yet. I will likely play with the trans throttle cable some to tailor my shift points.

After I replace the bearing, I will push it some to see what it can do, then maybe I'll be more impressed. I hope I'm correct on the bearing and it's not the LSD making noise.

Batt relocation pics. I'm not 100% happy with the way I have it setup in the trunk, but for now it's functional. The wiring in the front will likely need to be moved around a little once I have the bracket and can see what needs to go where. Also, the wire shown in most of the pics is the 5 gauge that was installed for my amp.

1. First step is to remove the battery and the battery tray, 10mm bolts for both.


2. Ran the 2 gauge power wire through this hole.


3. I removed a portion of the driver's side fender lining to gain access to the firewall grommet. I had to cut a slit in the grommet to get the wire through.



4. This is where the wire will come through on the inside.


5. I then removed the door sill trim and placed the wire under the carpet.


6. Next step, removed the backseat to......


7. ....gain access to this hole which leads to the trunk. Again, small slit needed to be made to get the wire through. I secured the wire in the trunk in a few strategic places to be sure that the trunk supports / hinges wouldn't make any contact with the wire.


8. No that the wires in the trunk, time to start working on the ground side. This is the massive grounding foot used for the battery ground cable.


9. Removed all paint prior to installing the grounding foot. This is the driver side trunk, where the jack is located. I put the jack next to the spare, under the carpet.


10. Foot installed with three self tapping screws. I painted it with battery protector paint.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

11. I modified the stock battery tray and screwed it to the floor.


12. I screwed the battery box to the battery tray.


13. Pic of battery installed into box. Used a 150amp circuit breaker Again not happy with it.


14. In this pic, you can see the junction block I used.


Installatoin is the reverse order as removal. Tommorow I will replace the center driveshaft bearing. I will aslo try and snap some photos.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Update: Replaced center driveshaft bearing today and all seems well. Still not sure I'm impressed by the torque converter.

The fish bracket requires that the fuse fox be turned for it to fit. Go to the link on on the first post to see what I mean.

Here are some pics of how I butchered my fuse box. I will try and explain what I did to it, but in the end, if you plan on doing this yourself, you'll have to expirement and see what makes you happy.

1. First thing, I disconnected the battery of course. Remove the fuse box cover and this is what you'll see. Removed the 2 10mm studs and the 12mm nut, then unclipped the harness retainer.


2. When I started to raise the block, I learned there is a connector that needs unplugged. At this point the whole fuse block comes out without any problems. The connector is just a ground loop. For whatever reason, a grouding wire goes to the fuse box, through the connector and then to a ground. It's not actually grounded at the fuse box in any way. I pulled the connector out of the bottom fuse block holder, tapped it up and plugged it back in. There are 2 10mm bolts holding the bottom half of the fuse box.


3. This is where the butchering comes in. I would cut some of the bottom box out and then test fit it. I did this several times untill I was happyish with the fit and I was confident that the hood would not hit the fuse box when shut.


4.The 2 studs that were removed in order to allow the actuall fuse block to come loose also double as the nuts that the top cover screws bolt to. Well since half of the bottom box has been removed the threads that one of those studs bolts to are no longer present. I put the stud in its place and used a spare 10mm nut on the underside of the fuse block to secure it.


5. I also had to cut a new whole for the wiring to go through.


6. This is a pic of the final result. I tie wrapped the bottom box to the wiring harness that runs down the fender. Cut a notch in the top part of the box so that it would fit over the tie wrap and then reinstalled the top box. For now, I shoved a peice of card board into the big gapping hole on the bottom box to help prevent any of the wiring from touching ground. I'm not entirely happy with the setup, but I will wait to make any changes untill I have the bracket in hand. With the bracket in place, I will be able to better determine exactly what goes where.


I hope that all made sense, it's kinda hard to explain. Like I said, if you plan on doing a supercharger with the fish bracket on an SC400, this will need to be done.

Also, Lextreme just informed me that for the bracket to work on an SC400, the hydo fan setup will need to be removed. This includes the pump bracket. The parts needed for this are a fan bracket made for an LS400, the pulley that bolts on to the bracket, a fan, and a fan clutch.

It would also be possible to convert to an electric fan setup but the fan bracket and pulley would still be needed.

I'm most likely going to go with engine driven fan setup for it's reliability and because it will be cheaper to do than electric. And, of course, less load on the electrical system of the vehicle.

That's all for now.

Khris

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the correction on the injectors. They are NA MK3.

The turbo MK3 440 injectors can be used (from what I've read) but a resistor needs to be used to "convert" them to high impedance.

I'm not yet sure I will be making enough power to require the 315's, but I bought them just in case.

KC