SC300 w/ Aristo 2JZGTE
08-19-06, 12:57 PM
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SC300 w/ Aristo 2JZGTE
Hey Guys,
Finally finished my project. Here's the specs:
Aristo 2JZGTE w/ auto tranny
USDM Supra OEM Turbos, side-mount intercooler, intake and piping
Working on making procedure to do this swap...at no charge to all. pro-bono
Part 1: Parts and Installation Notes -Completed see below
1A: Supra Turbo Engine Components Diagram-attached below
Part 2: Introduction to Electrical-Completed see below
2a: Rewiring Guide (work in progress...please wait)
Part 3: Troubleshooting: wait just a minute ...let me finish part 1 and 2 first
***BIG NOTE***
I'm constantly updating/changing this thread. Please make sure you have the latest information.
All information is current as of 8/25/06 11PM PST.
Also, much of this information can be useful if you're doing a JDM supra 2JZGTE swap.
Any questions please send PM
Enjoy
Mike
Last edited by SC300TT!; 08-25-06 at 10:45 PM.
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08-19-06, 03:12 PM
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Part 1: The Parts List and Install Notes
1. 2JZGTE (JDM Aristo) w/ Auto Tranny and ECU
2. Supra Turbo Fuel Pump inc. stainer, rubber seat and clip
3. Supra OEM MAF, Intake, Intercooler and Intercooler piping
4. Supra Power Steering Reservior
5. Fuel Pump ECU (98 Supra Non-Turbo)
6. Supra turbo heater hoses (3 pieces+ 1 Generic hose 1/2'' from
Autozone)
7. SC400 Drive shaft and transmission output flange. Also, extra
rubber flex coupler.
8. US Spec Supra turbos rebuilt by Turbo City
9. 3" Megan Downpipe
10. Custom Dual Exhaust (3" to 2.5"(Dual) piping w/ Apexi.
Mufflers. Flowmaster 3" to dual 2.5": Y-Pipe
11. Custom Intercooler Shroud
12. Custom Power Steering Lines
13. Greddy BOV kit for Supra
14. Greddy B Spec II Boost Controller and Turbo Timer
15. Supra Turbo Water pump
16. MSD 8920 Tach Adapter
17. Supra Turbo Sway Bar w/ End Links
18. Supra Turbo Throttle cable
19. Supra Turbo fan
20. Magnaflow 3" catalytic converter
21. Supra Brake Booster vacuum fitting for Intake manifold.
22. Silicon Vacuum Lines
23. Supra turbo oil return flange, #2 turbo oil return line, return hoses
24. Supra turbo upper and lower radiator hoses and thermostat housing
Total Cost: ~$5K-$6K (I rebuilt and replaced every gasket and hose with OEM replacement...add $500)
***I highly recommend getting a supra 2jzgte motor/tranny/ecu set-You can save an least $200 and some time on install.
Also, if you use the turbos that came with the motor- you can save an additional $800.
Installation Notes:
The SC300 shares a nearly identical chassis as MKIV Supra which makes the swap somewhat user friendly.
Notes for above parts:
1. Need to use SC300 motor mounts w/ brackets or change to
Supra's. Need to use the SC300's Oil Pan (Both of them),
sump, stainer , baffle, oil level sensor and oil dip stick.
Also, the oil pan has a provision to run a oil return line but
you need to drill out the center hole and tap holes to add studs.
You'll need to change #2 oil return line to supra's and get the
Supra's oil return flange that connects to pan....It's
different than Aristo's. Also, get the Supra's oil return
hoses.
Also, use the Sc's tranny mount and bracket
2. Supra Turbo Fuel pump should be clamped to bracket to
prevent to from slipping out. Bend metal fuel line up a little
to allow pump to fit in correctly.
3. The Aristo motor doesn't use a MAF but I added one
(gutted) so I can fit the factory intake nicely.
I had to cut/modify wheel well plastic cover because the
side-mount is a little fat. This cover won't bolt down nicely so I
just zip-tied to bumper. Supra intercooler shroud won't
clear fog lamps. Soarer intercooler + shroud and piping
should be a direct fit if you can find them.
4. I had to make custom powersteering lines because the
supra's OEM intercooler piping gets in the way. Also, you need
to bend the a/c lines too make room for piping on the other end.
Be very careful not to over crimp or crack these lines.
5. Many people re-wire to run 12v to pump constantly. This
will work fine but the pump will be a little noisy inside cabin.
I change the fuel pump ECU to 98 Supra NA and here's why:
-Fuel pump is designed to run in two modes:
High (Battery Voltage to Pump) for Starting and High Load
Low- (9v to pump) for Idle and Low Load
-The Aristo's ECU puts out 2.5v to signal low and 5v to
signal high through the FPC Circuit. The SC300's Fuel Pump
ECU uses a 9V(Low) and 12v(High) signal just like the
Supra Turbo's. The 98 Supra Non-Turbo had an ECU
change. This new ECU uses a 2.5v-5v FPC Signal and so
it's fuel pump ecu was changed. This makes the 98 Supra
NA fuel pump ecu suitable to use with the Aristo ECU.
**Please note the 97-98 Supra Repair Manuals are
incorrect. The 93-98 Supra Turbo never changed ECU
design and so uses 9v-12v FPC signals not 2.5v-5v.
Currently: I'm working on designing a relay system so you can
use the sc300 fuel controller with Aristo ECU. Watch for this in the
future in Part IIa: Electrical
6. Install the hoses to heater core while engine is out... they
are a real pain to get to with the engine in.
7. Most people get custom drive shafts made. The SC400
set-up is a direct fit....good for me since I won't be running
really high boost or anything just 14psi max.
8. If you use JDM turbos please inspect the compressor and
ceramic turbine wheel for damage...they are sensitive.
You'll probably need a custom downpipe for JDM turbos.
9. Downpipes for Supra turbo will bolt up SC300's exhaust...
but you should upgrade it.
11. I made mine with fiberglass.
12. Used 3/8" Aluminum piping from Earl's
13. Can't mount it like how Supra Turbo because of heater
Control VSV so I relocated it and added longer 3/4" hose
to mount near ABS where cuise control used to be.
Note: I disabled cruise control but the Aristo does have provisions
to have cruise control but you'll probably need custom thottle cables.
15. Aristo motor comes with a Electric fan and water pump so I changed both to supra's belt driven ones. Use SC300's water pump pulley w/ Supra turbo pump and fan(smaller than SC300's for clearance)
17. Supra's OEM Intercooler piping won't clear SC300's
front sway bars. Use supra or aftermarket supra sway bar.
20. Magnaflow makes a low-profile 3" catalytic converter Part#54959
Yes, you will lose some power but surely you like clean air.
If you race, on track of coarse, go with straight downpipe
21. Aristo's Intake Manifold has a bolt on top of it...toss this and use
supra's vacuum booster banjo bolt w/ washers. I just used an
Earl's banjo fitting. Cut to fit SC's Booster hose and remember the
one-way vaccum valve is directional.
22. I would replace and zip-tie all of them.
Baker Precision Products in Signal Hill, Ca. sells them by the foot.
They also have braided lines, silicon fiberglass hose wrap, Earl's/Aero-Quip fittings
Additional:
SC300's AC compressor is being used. You will need to make a 12VDC .5A "high sensitivity" relay so your AC Control Module will communicate correctly with Aristo ECU to activate compressor clutch via MGC signal line. Watch for this in Part IIa Electrical: Coming Soon
Provisions to run a factory intercooler are provided in chassis like mounting holes and intercooler piping routing, but you need to make brackets to fit the Supra side-mount intercooler. I'm using the SC300 radiator, shroud and tranny cooler...I recommend upgrading the radiator if you plan to modify motor extensively or using front-mount intercooler. Stock Radiator works great for me. Supra Radiators don't fit so nicely in a SC.
You can bent the radiator upper brackets down to use a supra radiator. I would try using a SC or JDM Soarer designed performance radiator for easy set-up. I think the SC400 core is bigger but not so sure.And get one with an internal cooler if you have a Auto tranny...it's alot of work to mount an external one ....Unless you race. Aristo's motor has different cam profile, smaller injectors and smaller turbo compared to US spec Supra turbo. It was designed to have quicker spooling and more torque. The Aristo's Traction Control in not being used since I don't have the TRAC ecu... but I don't need this anyways. Remember to use TYPE TII(now IV) Toyota tranny fuild and Dextron II+ for powersteering.
2. Supra Turbo Fuel Pump inc. stainer, rubber seat and clip
3. Supra OEM MAF, Intake, Intercooler and Intercooler piping
4. Supra Power Steering Reservior
5. Fuel Pump ECU (98 Supra Non-Turbo)
6. Supra turbo heater hoses (3 pieces+ 1 Generic hose 1/2'' from
Autozone)
7. SC400 Drive shaft and transmission output flange. Also, extra
rubber flex coupler.
8. US Spec Supra turbos rebuilt by Turbo City
9. 3" Megan Downpipe
10. Custom Dual Exhaust (3" to 2.5"(Dual) piping w/ Apexi.
Mufflers. Flowmaster 3" to dual 2.5": Y-Pipe
11. Custom Intercooler Shroud
12. Custom Power Steering Lines
13. Greddy BOV kit for Supra
14. Greddy B Spec II Boost Controller and Turbo Timer
15. Supra Turbo Water pump
16. MSD 8920 Tach Adapter
17. Supra Turbo Sway Bar w/ End Links
18. Supra Turbo Throttle cable
19. Supra Turbo fan
20. Magnaflow 3" catalytic converter
21. Supra Brake Booster vacuum fitting for Intake manifold.
22. Silicon Vacuum Lines
23. Supra turbo oil return flange, #2 turbo oil return line, return hoses
24. Supra turbo upper and lower radiator hoses and thermostat housing
Total Cost: ~$5K-$6K (I rebuilt and replaced every gasket and hose with OEM replacement...add $500)
***I highly recommend getting a supra 2jzgte motor/tranny/ecu set-You can save an least $200 and some time on install.
Also, if you use the turbos that came with the motor- you can save an additional $800.
Installation Notes:
The SC300 shares a nearly identical chassis as MKIV Supra which makes the swap somewhat user friendly.
Notes for above parts:
1. Need to use SC300 motor mounts w/ brackets or change to
Supra's. Need to use the SC300's Oil Pan (Both of them),
sump, stainer , baffle, oil level sensor and oil dip stick.
Also, the oil pan has a provision to run a oil return line but
you need to drill out the center hole and tap holes to add studs.
You'll need to change #2 oil return line to supra's and get the
Supra's oil return flange that connects to pan....It's
different than Aristo's. Also, get the Supra's oil return
hoses.
Also, use the Sc's tranny mount and bracket
2. Supra Turbo Fuel pump should be clamped to bracket to
prevent to from slipping out. Bend metal fuel line up a little
to allow pump to fit in correctly.
3. The Aristo motor doesn't use a MAF but I added one
(gutted) so I can fit the factory intake nicely.
I had to cut/modify wheel well plastic cover because the
side-mount is a little fat. This cover won't bolt down nicely so I
just zip-tied to bumper. Supra intercooler shroud won't
clear fog lamps. Soarer intercooler + shroud and piping
should be a direct fit if you can find them.
4. I had to make custom powersteering lines because the
supra's OEM intercooler piping gets in the way. Also, you need
to bend the a/c lines too make room for piping on the other end.
Be very careful not to over crimp or crack these lines.
5. Many people re-wire to run 12v to pump constantly. This
will work fine but the pump will be a little noisy inside cabin.
I change the fuel pump ECU to 98 Supra NA and here's why:
-Fuel pump is designed to run in two modes:
High (Battery Voltage to Pump) for Starting and High Load
Low- (9v to pump) for Idle and Low Load
-The Aristo's ECU puts out 2.5v to signal low and 5v to
signal high through the FPC Circuit. The SC300's Fuel Pump
ECU uses a 9V(Low) and 12v(High) signal just like the
Supra Turbo's. The 98 Supra Non-Turbo had an ECU
change. This new ECU uses a 2.5v-5v FPC Signal and so
it's fuel pump ecu was changed. This makes the 98 Supra
NA fuel pump ecu suitable to use with the Aristo ECU.
**Please note the 97-98 Supra Repair Manuals are
incorrect. The 93-98 Supra Turbo never changed ECU
design and so uses 9v-12v FPC signals not 2.5v-5v.
Currently: I'm working on designing a relay system so you can
use the sc300 fuel controller with Aristo ECU. Watch for this in the
future in Part IIa: Electrical
6. Install the hoses to heater core while engine is out... they
are a real pain to get to with the engine in.
7. Most people get custom drive shafts made. The SC400
set-up is a direct fit....good for me since I won't be running
really high boost or anything just 14psi max.
8. If you use JDM turbos please inspect the compressor and
ceramic turbine wheel for damage...they are sensitive.
You'll probably need a custom downpipe for JDM turbos.
9. Downpipes for Supra turbo will bolt up SC300's exhaust...
but you should upgrade it.
11. I made mine with fiberglass.
12. Used 3/8" Aluminum piping from Earl's
13. Can't mount it like how Supra Turbo because of heater
Control VSV so I relocated it and added longer 3/4" hose
to mount near ABS where cuise control used to be.
Note: I disabled cruise control but the Aristo does have provisions
to have cruise control but you'll probably need custom thottle cables.
15. Aristo motor comes with a Electric fan and water pump so I changed both to supra's belt driven ones. Use SC300's water pump pulley w/ Supra turbo pump and fan(smaller than SC300's for clearance)
17. Supra's OEM Intercooler piping won't clear SC300's
front sway bars. Use supra or aftermarket supra sway bar.
20. Magnaflow makes a low-profile 3" catalytic converter Part#54959
Yes, you will lose some power but surely you like clean air.
If you race, on track of coarse, go with straight downpipe
21. Aristo's Intake Manifold has a bolt on top of it...toss this and use
supra's vacuum booster banjo bolt w/ washers. I just used an
Earl's banjo fitting. Cut to fit SC's Booster hose and remember the
one-way vaccum valve is directional.
22. I would replace and zip-tie all of them.
Baker Precision Products in Signal Hill, Ca. sells them by the foot.
They also have braided lines, silicon fiberglass hose wrap, Earl's/Aero-Quip fittings
Additional:
SC300's AC compressor is being used. You will need to make a 12VDC .5A "high sensitivity" relay so your AC Control Module will communicate correctly with Aristo ECU to activate compressor clutch via MGC signal line. Watch for this in Part IIa Electrical: Coming Soon
Provisions to run a factory intercooler are provided in chassis like mounting holes and intercooler piping routing, but you need to make brackets to fit the Supra side-mount intercooler. I'm using the SC300 radiator, shroud and tranny cooler...I recommend upgrading the radiator if you plan to modify motor extensively or using front-mount intercooler. Stock Radiator works great for me. Supra Radiators don't fit so nicely in a SC.
You can bent the radiator upper brackets down to use a supra radiator. I would try using a SC or JDM Soarer designed performance radiator for easy set-up. I think the SC400 core is bigger but not so sure.And get one with an internal cooler if you have a Auto tranny...it's alot of work to mount an external one ....Unless you race. Aristo's motor has different cam profile, smaller injectors and smaller turbo compared to US spec Supra turbo. It was designed to have quicker spooling and more torque. The Aristo's Traction Control in not being used since I don't have the TRAC ecu... but I don't need this anyways. Remember to use TYPE TII(now IV) Toyota tranny fuild and Dextron II+ for powersteering.
Last edited by SC300TT!; 04-28-07 at 01:08 PM.
08-19-06, 03:31 PM
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Congrats on the swap. How does it feel? Were you orginally an auto? Nice write up, gives people an idea of how much work is required and the possible issues that may arrive. Congrats again, now more pictures and some vids please. =)
-esk
-esk
08-19-06, 05:00 PM
#13
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Part II: Introduction to Electical
If you fear electrical please don't attempt this swap.
I worked on this off and on for a week
I'm not sure how to present this information since the electical
work needed is extensive. Here's the basics:
1. You'll need to expand the engine wire harness about 3 ft
Do each wire one by one...warning: it'll take a long time. 1-2days
I purchased a 500ft roll of 18AWG wire but I think 400ft is more than enough. Also get 20ft of 18AWG double wiring - Red (+) and Black(-)
You will need to cut, lengthen, soldier and heat shrink each one.
Some wires have shielding on them with a ground attached at the end(Larger wire coverings) ...mainly EFI wires.
It is best to lenghten after the shielding and not cut this wire cover....you need the ground.
Some wires are four/three/two wires joining together into one (like many signal grounds) Lenghten this one wire after the junction- means less work. I cut my wires at the end of harness, where the wires are exposed near the ECU connectors.
Also, remove the Aristo long plastic harness cover that runs along firewall and use the SC's.
Take your time and be organized...or you will be stuck with a ball of wires.
Do the lengthening and wire repairs while the engine is out of the car....It's easier.
***Here's when a girlfriend or wife comes in...take them to dinner after 'cause they will be pissed.
2. ECU Connectors
You don't need to rewire the EFI and Transmission
connector (This is the long connector) just lenghten it. The smaller ECU
connector is for body electronics....you need to lenghten it
and rewire it. Note: The pin locations and functions on this
connector are nearly identical to US supra's wiring except the
wire colors are different.
3. Body Harness Connector
The large connector on the Aristo Harness connects to
body electronics and also to the small connector for ECU.
The SC300 divides this portion into 5 or so different
connectors instead of the one. I rewired this connector to
use the SC300 connectors. Some functions on this circuit include:
-DLC1 and DLC2
-A/C
-Trac
-Combination Meter: oil level + Pressure, Coolant Temps (1 for Gauge & 1 for ECU)
-Transmission: Shifter indicator
Note:
I used the original SC engine harness body side connectors.
Some of the Aristo wires will plug right in...others I had to cut the SC's wires
and soldier them to the Aristo's body harness wires.
Protection:
Inspect each wire for cracking and connector for damage-especially ignition coils, injectors and wires near exhaust manifold.
I used heat shrink to cover cracked wires. Wires that have bad copper corrosion should be replaced. I also used silicon to cover connector wire seals that looked a little dried out.
Use Silicon Tape not regular electrical tape in engine bay. Tolerates higher temp. Mcmaster.com sells them in Black or gray 1/2" or 1" . Use 1/2" for wiring(It's easier to work with) and 1" for large diameter sections in the harness. Spiral wrap wires and portions of harness that may rub
or vibrate on other components in engine bay(and do the same for hoses and vacuum lines). I also used silicon fiberglass hose wrap to cover lengthened wire harness area because it runs over exhaust manifold area. Some heat shrink can't withstand high high heat like exhaust manifold areas and ignition coil pack areas-wrap heat shrink with silicon tape as precaution if you repair wires in this area.
Sorry this entry in not detailed. I will put together a re-wiring guide ( Part IIa: Electrical) soon after I organize all the information.
I worked on this off and on for a week
I'm not sure how to present this information since the electical
work needed is extensive. Here's the basics:
1. You'll need to expand the engine wire harness about 3 ft
Do each wire one by one...warning: it'll take a long time. 1-2days
I purchased a 500ft roll of 18AWG wire but I think 400ft is more than enough. Also get 20ft of 18AWG double wiring - Red (+) and Black(-)
You will need to cut, lengthen, soldier and heat shrink each one.
Some wires have shielding on them with a ground attached at the end(Larger wire coverings) ...mainly EFI wires.
It is best to lenghten after the shielding and not cut this wire cover....you need the ground.
Some wires are four/three/two wires joining together into one (like many signal grounds) Lenghten this one wire after the junction- means less work. I cut my wires at the end of harness, where the wires are exposed near the ECU connectors.
Also, remove the Aristo long plastic harness cover that runs along firewall and use the SC's.
Take your time and be organized...or you will be stuck with a ball of wires.
Do the lengthening and wire repairs while the engine is out of the car....It's easier.
***Here's when a girlfriend or wife comes in...take them to dinner after 'cause they will be pissed.
2. ECU Connectors
You don't need to rewire the EFI and Transmission
connector (This is the long connector) just lenghten it. The smaller ECU
connector is for body electronics....you need to lenghten it
and rewire it. Note: The pin locations and functions on this
connector are nearly identical to US supra's wiring except the
wire colors are different.
3. Body Harness Connector
The large connector on the Aristo Harness connects to
body electronics and also to the small connector for ECU.
The SC300 divides this portion into 5 or so different
connectors instead of the one. I rewired this connector to
use the SC300 connectors. Some functions on this circuit include:
-DLC1 and DLC2
-A/C
-Trac
-Combination Meter: oil level + Pressure, Coolant Temps (1 for Gauge & 1 for ECU)
-Transmission: Shifter indicator
Note:
I used the original SC engine harness body side connectors.
Some of the Aristo wires will plug right in...others I had to cut the SC's wires
and soldier them to the Aristo's body harness wires.
Protection:
Inspect each wire for cracking and connector for damage-especially ignition coils, injectors and wires near exhaust manifold.
I used heat shrink to cover cracked wires. Wires that have bad copper corrosion should be replaced. I also used silicon to cover connector wire seals that looked a little dried out.
Use Silicon Tape not regular electrical tape in engine bay. Tolerates higher temp. Mcmaster.com sells them in Black or gray 1/2" or 1" . Use 1/2" for wiring(It's easier to work with) and 1" for large diameter sections in the harness. Spiral wrap wires and portions of harness that may rub
or vibrate on other components in engine bay(and do the same for hoses and vacuum lines). I also used silicon fiberglass hose wrap to cover lengthened wire harness area because it runs over exhaust manifold area. Some heat shrink can't withstand high high heat like exhaust manifold areas and ignition coil pack areas-wrap heat shrink with silicon tape as precaution if you repair wires in this area.
Sorry this entry in not detailed. I will put together a re-wiring guide ( Part IIa: Electrical) soon after I organize all the information.
Last edited by SC300TT!; 08-22-06 at 07:40 AM.
Someone should sticky this
