Finishing up the 1jz swap FACT
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Pole Position
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Arizona
Finishing up the 1jz swap FACT
Hey everyone, I Had recently finished my 1jz swap, only to run in to issues, i tried looking around, asking some questions, but didnt really get anywhere, so i decided i was tired of looking around and went out in the 110+ az heat and figured out all of the little problems.
#1 i noticed alota people with there swaps had the issue where hte car was starting its self as soon as the battery is hooked up. First i bypassed the stock system with a button. this worked up its VERY ghetto and needed to be fixed. Manualy running a wire from the starter tab to any wire that has a 12v when the car is turned to the start position fixes this.. i found one but havent had a chance to hook it up yet (ill do it when i get home from work)
#2 Sputter at higher rpms, right before hte auto tranny shifts.. this is as simple as bypassing the stock fuel pump computer. If you locate the computer behinde the drivers side rear panel (right below the window) and you take the two thick wires, (green and black/red) soilder these together and heat shrink... gone, no more sputter.
#3 Tach, The tach is where i got messed up last time... i heard all of this about R109.. well theres a R78 on the 95 cluster that needs to be bypassed instead of the R109. Its the bigger brown looking resister. not any of the little greenish blue ones. (gonna finish this up tonight)
Anyway i still need to finish some stuff up so ill do that tonight and add some more to this..
#1 i noticed alota people with there swaps had the issue where hte car was starting its self as soon as the battery is hooked up. First i bypassed the stock system with a button. this worked up its VERY ghetto and needed to be fixed. Manualy running a wire from the starter tab to any wire that has a 12v when the car is turned to the start position fixes this.. i found one but havent had a chance to hook it up yet (ill do it when i get home from work)
#2 Sputter at higher rpms, right before hte auto tranny shifts.. this is as simple as bypassing the stock fuel pump computer. If you locate the computer behinde the drivers side rear panel (right below the window) and you take the two thick wires, (green and black/red) soilder these together and heat shrink... gone, no more sputter.
#3 Tach, The tach is where i got messed up last time... i heard all of this about R109.. well theres a R78 on the 95 cluster that needs to be bypassed instead of the R109. Its the bigger brown looking resister. not any of the little greenish blue ones. (gonna finish this up tonight)
Anyway i still need to finish some stuff up so ill do that tonight and add some more to this..
Lead Lap
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 495
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From: Washington
Originally Posted by 2jz gte
hi names edway i am lookin to do a 2 jz gte swap should i buy off ebay or not i cant deside???????
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Originally Posted by ippyness
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Originally Posted by ippyness
Hey everyone, I Had recently finished my 1jz swap, only to run in to issues, i tried looking around, asking some questions, but didnt really get anywhere, so i decided i was tired of looking around and went out in the 110+ az heat and figured out all of the little problems.
#1 i noticed alota people with there swaps had the issue where hte car was starting its self as soon as the battery is hooked up. First i bypassed the stock system with a button. this worked up its VERY ghetto and needed to be fixed. Manualy running a wire from the starter tab to any wire that has a 12v when the car is turned to the start position fixes this.. i found one but havent had a chance to hook it up yet (ill do it when i get home from work)
#2 Sputter at higher rpms, right before hte auto tranny shifts.. this is as simple as bypassing the stock fuel pump computer. If you locate the computer behinde the drivers side rear panel (right below the window) and you take the two thick wires, (green and black/red) soilder these together and heat shrink... gone, no more sputter.
#3 Tach, The tach is where i got messed up last time... i heard all of this about R109.. well theres a R78 on the 95 cluster that needs to be bypassed instead of the R109. Its the bigger brown looking resister. not any of the little greenish blue ones. (gonna finish this up tonight)
Anyway i still need to finish some stuff up so ill do that tonight and add some more to this..
#1 i noticed alota people with there swaps had the issue where hte car was starting its self as soon as the battery is hooked up. First i bypassed the stock system with a button. this worked up its VERY ghetto and needed to be fixed. Manualy running a wire from the starter tab to any wire that has a 12v when the car is turned to the start position fixes this.. i found one but havent had a chance to hook it up yet (ill do it when i get home from work)
#2 Sputter at higher rpms, right before hte auto tranny shifts.. this is as simple as bypassing the stock fuel pump computer. If you locate the computer behinde the drivers side rear panel (right below the window) and you take the two thick wires, (green and black/red) soilder these together and heat shrink... gone, no more sputter.
#3 Tach, The tach is where i got messed up last time... i heard all of this about R109.. well theres a R78 on the 95 cluster that needs to be bypassed instead of the R109. Its the bigger brown looking resister. not any of the little greenish blue ones. (gonna finish this up tonight)
Anyway i still need to finish some stuff up so ill do that tonight and add some more to this..
The start problem was only for those with stock SC5 spd using 1jz Auto ECU right. Or so I believe I ran that wire from starter to remote start wire in ignition. My other boy is running push start its kinda cool ha ha. From your second post it seems you have an automatic.
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