blksc300mt

when i did my swap last year i had figured that the black wire for the tach signal was in the wrong location on the orange plug, but i traced the wire to the 1jz ignitor, and it still didnt work. ended up having to use the msd tach adaptor....works fine though.

RSTSpeed

iTrader: (4)

That's why I wonder why more people don't do that.

ConSynX

iTrader: (1)

costs money, me want freeeee

i'm soo broke atm, lol
trying to buy stuff like electric fans, koyo rad, and other goodies.

kietlander

y is it that no one wants to tell people???? y is everyone being shady about keeping this to themselves.

VJ RC51

because someone thinks they can be rich

kaosman

I will end up getting the tach adapter, but for now I want to make this work, at least to contribute something back to this forum. Its really sad that people are being tight-lipped about this, especially if they think its gonna make them money. When I figure this out - and I will - there will be a full write-up and explanation. Then I'll get the adapter.

nasc300

That's the spirit.
Yes we all know that it can be done with a tach adapter. But like any true hot rodder you just got to know how to do things the hard way

kaosman

Okay, found some more stuff out. First off, the two brown wires in the middle plug are connected internally in the cluster...plug the cluster in, and they are grounded. I checked the rest of the grounds and they are good. I also tested voltage from the C9 (black wire, middle connector) which is the tach signal, and checked this across the grounds. I got .8 volts at idle, with an increase in voltage with RPM. So signal is making it to the cluster.

I've got two ideas here...either there is a power wire that's not listed in the diagram that the tach needs, or the tach signal needs to be inverted. Anyone have any ideas?

2.5tsoarer

iTrader: (3)

Whats even funnier is that one of the people on here that knows what to do didnt even do their own swap, they bought it like that already done and everything working !!!
They didnt even do research and development to figure it out, and now they wanna charge people for this. Reminds me of when I did the SR swap in 97 the few places in Cali wanted to charge rediculous amount of money for the wiring so I figured it out on my own and made a how-to site featuring step by step on how to do the sr s13 swap which alot of shops today used. i.e Enjuku, Heavy Throttle etc.

Crazy how different people think when they find something out. Personally I cant wait to tell others . I rather be known for the guy that let out a discovery than the guy that was charging all the Club member of a forum they belong to

VJ RC51

^ exactly. I will be posting the real fix to the tach when i take mine apart tomorrow. As far as the temp gauge, i never cared for it to work, so i dont have any fixes for that. Thats what my autometer temp gauge is for.

2.5tsoarer

iTrader: (3)

IM assuming you just have to install the stock temp sending unit from the 2jzge. Didnt get to do this since I thru out the engine before I could remove it

kaosman

I'm running the 2JZ-GE sending unit for the gauge, and it did the exact same thing as the 1JZ's unit. I also tried running a seperate wire (just in case there was a weird connection inside the 1JZ wire harness) and the gauge still read hot. I ended up doing the resistor mod to get it close to stock.

One thing I noticed is that, with the engine running, the resistance of the sending unit drops way down. With the engine not running, but the key in the "On" position, the resistance was close to stock.

VJ RC51

I do not want to run the 2JZGE sensor, because i dont want the ECU to read any differently. I run an autometer water temp gauge on my a-pillar and eletric sender in the upper hardline. My needle just spikes hot, but when i take pics of the tach mod, im actually going to just pull the needle off.

kaosman

There are two sensors...a 1 wire sensor for the gauge, and a 2 wire sensor for the ECU. The two are completely independant. The 1JZ and 2JZ ECU sensors would read identical anyways...there's not much variance in Toyota ECU coolant temp sensors.

VJ RC51

Well the issue comes from. The Soarer cluster is fully digital, the SC00 is analog digital. They read differently.

What i dont understand is, why no one yet has got a Soarer cluster to work in a SC300? If we can make SC300 clusters work with the Soarer ECU, why cant anyone get a Soarer Cluster to work with a Soarer ECU? Its probably just an issue of running power correctly to it. The gauges read the signal all the same way.