jzgte temp and tach fix
05-16-06, 07:21 PM
#82
Originally Posted by ConSynX
for the resistor, i just spliced into the wire that plugs into the middle connector.
i believe it was green w/ a yellow stripe, or fice versa. . . i got this through searching.
Also, for the tach, it's pretty accurate. My cut is right around 7k
i believe it was green w/ a yellow stripe, or fice versa. . . i got this through searching.
Also, for the tach, it's pretty accurate. My cut is right around 7k
the resistor is on the cluster circuit board? or are you talking about the 330 ohm
resistor spliced in line on the temp sensor output wire?
05-16-06, 07:33 PM
#83
yes, 330ohm is spliced into the green/yellow combo wire on harness for the temp fix
it has to be an input temp wire.
the resistor to fix the tach IS on the circuitboard. it's R109 like they posted, or the other thing i'm guessing if you don't have R109.
bypassing R109 was done to "fix" the tach
it has to be an input temp wire.
the resistor to fix the tach IS on the circuitboard. it's R109 like they posted, or the other thing i'm guessing if you don't have R109.
bypassing R109 was done to "fix" the tach
05-16-06, 08:03 PM
#84
Umm, the 330 ohm in line for temp doesnt work that well i've been living w/ it for years.
the gauge response is terribly slow. i'm trying to mod the cluster for the temp
too. i wanted to get everything straight 1st. if DEW didnt want to post a how 2,
then maybe i would. this thread is very long & i wanted a quick do this/ this.
that way maybe we could save to a FAQ
might not be frequent, but is important.
DEW if you need better pics or some help let me know.
john
the gauge response is terribly slow. i'm trying to mod the cluster for the temp
too. i wanted to get everything straight 1st. if DEW didnt want to post a how 2,
then maybe i would. this thread is very long & i wanted a quick do this/ this.
that way maybe we could save to a FAQ
might not be frequent, but is important.DEW if you need better pics or some help let me know.
john
06-07-06, 12:32 AM
#86
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Just a quick note. Adding a resistor inline for the temp gauge cannot slow down the reaction time it has. The temp sensor resistance changes as it's physical temperature changes. Adding a resistor only changes the end reading, it in no way whatsoever could possible SLOW DOWN how quickly the gauge reacts. The water temp sensor itself is inheritly slow, that is why it seems like your gauge is slow.
When the gauge is acting funny like, staying cold then suddenly moving to hot, it is generally due to air in the water system: as very hot water is eventually moved across the sensor, it jumps quickly to hot. This often happens as the water expands, also right before the thermostat opens. Just burp the system and add more water.
When the gauge is acting funny like, staying cold then suddenly moving to hot, it is generally due to air in the water system: as very hot water is eventually moved across the sensor, it jumps quickly to hot. This often happens as the water expands, also right before the thermostat opens. Just burp the system and add more water.
06-24-06, 06:17 PM
#89
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The solution
Alright guys, in case you didn't see my post on another thread. I figured it out! If you look at the wiring diagram for the combination meter, and find the temp guage, you will notice it has two grounds. One goes to through a variable resister (the temp sensor) and the other straight to ground. The 1jz harness does not have this ground in connector Ik2 pin 24 (the female side). Put a pin in the connector and ground it. I was struggling with you guys and finally studied the ewd. Let me know how it works.
