I think alot of people would be willling to pay for the harness's for the 1jz swap if someone was extending them to the 20in or so. I know I would be, not so savy with electirc work.

 

truthfully its not hard to do, its more time consuming than physically or mentally hard. Have you ever learned the correct way to solder? The only reason I am asking is because, to me, it sounds like people are worried about making a good connection and not having a harness that will fall apart. If necessary, I can write a little section as a how-to make a good solder connection if you would like.

 

meh the only thing I have ever sodered was copper pipe, and a few things never wire to wire though......

 

basically what you are going to do is strip the ends of the two wires you are connecting. you will want about half an inch of the wire exposed. split the ends into two and twist them to the other two from the other end you are soldering to. any extra wire from the ends can be wrapped around the already wrapped connection. take your soldering iron and place the tip on the exposed internals and let it heat up the joint for about 3 seconds and then start dipping some thin solder onto the tip of the soldering iron and then right next to the soldering iron head into the joint. let the iron sit again on the joint until the solder flows into the joint (not on top which looks like a chrome drop) the joint will have solder in between the majority of the wires strands of the joint and will make it look silver colored. let it cool for 5 seconds and give it a little tug to make sure the joint is strong. wrap it with electrical tape or heat shrink and your done.

note: you will want to replace the whole knock sensor wire by depinning the clips of the wire and repinning it with some usb wire. good luck

 

Solder is not recommended in machinery of any kind, as it vibrates. A vibrating solder connection will brake where the solder ends on the wire. Your lexus has no solder connections outside circuit boards. The recommended is solderless wire crimp splices, up to about 4 guage. Always use a proper crimping tool, never pliers. Larger than 4 guage or so, screw down connectors and splices are used. Check with your local electronic store. And, gold plating buys little in an automobile.

 

ill stand by a good solder job, its worked for the majority of 1jz swap guys before...plus crimp splices are bulky and are a pain to wrap to keep them waterproof. u can do what u want tho...

 

Respectfully, heat shrink tubing insulation to waterproof , if needed. Plastic tape fails to hold up alone. It's usually complimented with cloth electrical tape.

 

note: you will want to replace the whole knock sensor wire by depinning the clips of the wire and repinning it with some usb wire. good luck

? USB, do you want USB connecters on both sides? Or will you just cut the conectors off( I have a bunch of extra USB cables lieing around). I am going to assume you just want the wire and not the USB head conectors. Sorry im still young and learning.

 

just the wire. actually any shielded wire will work. you dont need the head connectors.

 

I learned how to solder many years ago when I used to mess around with R/C cars and find it hard to believe that soldering is not effective in machinery due to vibration. Many circuit boards and electronics used in automobiles contain some sort of solder work and I don't see why a GOOD solder job wouldn't work when rewiring a harness.

 

Anyone have all the wiring digrams. When extending the harness are you going to be splicing each end, one end from the engine other going to the old wires with the conectors to the ecu. Or do you put clips on the wires? Or is the wire job directly to the ecu and no clips that you plug in?
Thanks guys.

 

you are going to be cutting each individual wire and adding a 22" section of wire to lengthen the harness for the ecu to fit on the right side of the car where as in the soarer the ecu is on the left hand side of the car and wont stretch to the right side without the extensions.

 

Where is the ECU located, on the my RX-7 it was pretty hidden away and a pain to deal with. SO the orignal wires that are on the ECU will just be cut off or will not even be there. I guess what im asking how do you make sure which wire goes where. Also are the wires all different colors? Do you want to try and match all the colors when extending to the 20in with the new wire?

 

the ecu is located on the passenger side floor below the dash. to make sure you get the right wires in the right location you will cut 1 wire at a time and add then extension then move to the next wire. you dont need to find wire with the same color scheme because you will be spending a ton on wire that will be wrapped up and most likely never seen again. search for 1jz swap posts and look for pictures of the harness being extended or already been extended and ull see what im talking about

 

I'm here to advise, not argue. It's your automobile, and not an R/C car. Whether you use lead or silver solder, they both break inside the wire insulation when subjected to vibration.. NASA proved it, a soldered wire broke and shorted on Apollo 13, but research for yourself.