Code 13 and 71 1993 sc400
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4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2025
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Code 13 and 71 1993 sc400
1993 sc400 has a hard time starting up. From what I’ve read 13 is camshaft sensors and 71 is egr but not sure how to fix the egr. Also are both camshaft sensors the same part number? I tried the dealership but they said they are discontinued. Is this $75 a good brand and can it be used for both sensors?
Last edited by armanisc400; Aug 13, 2025 at 12:40 AM.
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,688
Likes: 1,101
From: Michigan
Hello,
Inductive Sensors used to track both Crank- and Camshaft Position are usually extremely reliable, unless someone chewed on it by accident, it's unlikely that the Sensor itself is your problem. Sometimes this code can appear when the Cam- and Crank Sensors don't Align properly, meaning that you have an issue with the Engine Timing, which, on those engines, is pretty easy to check, so I would start with that first. You can also try Resetting the Codes by Disconnecting the Battery for a few minutes to see how quickly they come back, if the issue is with a Flaky Wiring for example (which is a possibility with older, non-VVTi engines), the Code will take a lot longer to show up again compared to an issue that is present constantly.
Speaking of Flaky Wiring, the very first iteration of 1UZ engine had a pretty notorious issue with the Wiring for a number of components on the Front of the Engine going Behind the Timing Back Cover, in pretty tight corner with a Lot of heat being pumped into it, every one that I've seen was either already toast, or was getting there, below is a Video showing the Wiring in question. If memory serves, you pretty much have to take the entire Timing Mechanism apart, including the Metal Timing Cover in the back to access it though, so, as much as I hate to say this, it could be that replacing the Sensor first just as a random chance that it may help, is not the worst option in this specific case.
Aside from the sensor that you listed being a Crankshaft Sensor, NTK is a more or less dependable company. Regardless, seeing how rarely those sensor develop any kinds of issues, I would say that Used OEM would be a far better option anyway, reliability and cost wise. Being that the next diagnostics step if what's described above fails is getting an Oscilloscope, as mentioned earlier, paying about $10-20 for a Used Sensor may be a good option for a change, it's getting to it is what's going to be a bit of an issue though.
That is indeed an EGR Malfunction, this code in particular is triggered when EGR Gas Temperature is below a predetermined level during EGR operation. In other words, it's either caked with gunk, or the Actuator is Failed or some combination of the two, preventing the EGR from functioning normally. With a car this old, especially if this procedure was never done before, it's quite important to periodically remove the EGR Valve for an Inspection and/or Cleaning Procedure, as you are quite literally feeding the Exhaust fumes back into the Intake, which can turn gnarly if the car was neglected.
Either way, start with taking the EGR Valve off, giving it a good clean, and seeing if it would move freely, usually if there aren't any glaring visual defects with the system, that procedure alone is enough to get rid of the majority of EGR Codes. Don't forget to get new Gaskets before putting everything back together, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Inductive Sensors used to track both Crank- and Camshaft Position are usually extremely reliable, unless someone chewed on it by accident, it's unlikely that the Sensor itself is your problem. Sometimes this code can appear when the Cam- and Crank Sensors don't Align properly, meaning that you have an issue with the Engine Timing, which, on those engines, is pretty easy to check, so I would start with that first. You can also try Resetting the Codes by Disconnecting the Battery for a few minutes to see how quickly they come back, if the issue is with a Flaky Wiring for example (which is a possibility with older, non-VVTi engines), the Code will take a lot longer to show up again compared to an issue that is present constantly.
Speaking of Flaky Wiring, the very first iteration of 1UZ engine had a pretty notorious issue with the Wiring for a number of components on the Front of the Engine going Behind the Timing Back Cover, in pretty tight corner with a Lot of heat being pumped into it, every one that I've seen was either already toast, or was getting there, below is a Video showing the Wiring in question. If memory serves, you pretty much have to take the entire Timing Mechanism apart, including the Metal Timing Cover in the back to access it though, so, as much as I hate to say this, it could be that replacing the Sensor first just as a random chance that it may help, is not the worst option in this specific case.
Aside from the sensor that you listed being a Crankshaft Sensor, NTK is a more or less dependable company. Regardless, seeing how rarely those sensor develop any kinds of issues, I would say that Used OEM would be a far better option anyway, reliability and cost wise. Being that the next diagnostics step if what's described above fails is getting an Oscilloscope, as mentioned earlier, paying about $10-20 for a Used Sensor may be a good option for a change, it's getting to it is what's going to be a bit of an issue though.
That is indeed an EGR Malfunction, this code in particular is triggered when EGR Gas Temperature is below a predetermined level during EGR operation. In other words, it's either caked with gunk, or the Actuator is Failed or some combination of the two, preventing the EGR from functioning normally. With a car this old, especially if this procedure was never done before, it's quite important to periodically remove the EGR Valve for an Inspection and/or Cleaning Procedure, as you are quite literally feeding the Exhaust fumes back into the Intake, which can turn gnarly if the car was neglected.
Either way, start with taking the EGR Valve off, giving it a good clean, and seeing if it would move freely, usually if there aren't any glaring visual defects with the system, that procedure alone is enough to get rid of the majority of EGR Codes. Don't forget to get new Gaskets before putting everything back together, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Hello,
Inductive Sensors used to track both Crank- and Camshaft Position are usually extremely reliable, unless someone chewed on it by accident, it's unlikely that the Sensor itself is your problem. Sometimes this code can appear when the Cam- and Crank Sensors don't Align properly, meaning that you have an issue with the Engine Timing, which, on those engines, is pretty easy to check, so I would start with that first. You can also try Resetting the Codes by Disconnecting the Battery for a few minutes to see how quickly they come back, if the issue is with a Flaky Wiring for example (which is a possibility with older, non-VVTi engines), the Code will take a lot longer to show up again compared to an issue that is present constantly.
Speaking of Flaky Wiring, the very first iteration of 1UZ engine had a pretty notorious issue with the Wiring for a number of components on the Front of the Engine going Behind the Timing Back Cover, in pretty tight corner with a Lot of heat being pumped into it, every one that I've seen was either already toast, or was getting there, below is a Video showing the Wiring in question. If memory serves, you pretty much have to take the entire Timing Mechanism apart, including the Metal Timing Cover in the back to access it though, so, as much as I hate to say this, it could be that replacing the Sensor first just as a random chance that it may help, is not the worst option in this specific case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-B8xaM59GA
Aside from the sensor that you listed being a Crankshaft Sensor, NTK is a more or less dependable company. Regardless, seeing how rarely those sensor develop any kinds of issues, I would say that Used OEM would be a far better option anyway, reliability and cost wise. Being that the next diagnostics step if what's described above fails is getting an Oscilloscope, as mentioned earlier, paying about $10-20 for a Used Sensor may be a good option for a change, it's getting to it is what's going to be a bit of an issue though.
That is indeed an EGR Malfunction, this code in particular is triggered when EGR Gas Temperature is below a predetermined level during EGR operation. In other words, it's either caked with gunk, or the Actuator is Failed or some combination of the two, preventing the EGR from functioning normally. With a car this old, especially if this procedure was never done before, it's quite important to periodically remove the EGR Valve for an Inspection and/or Cleaning Procedure, as you are quite literally feeding the Exhaust fumes back into the Intake, which can turn gnarly if the car was neglected.
Either way, start with taking the EGR Valve off, giving it a good clean, and seeing if it would move freely, usually if there aren't any glaring visual defects with the system, that procedure alone is enough to get rid of the majority of EGR Codes. Don't forget to get new Gaskets before putting everything back together, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Inductive Sensors used to track both Crank- and Camshaft Position are usually extremely reliable, unless someone chewed on it by accident, it's unlikely that the Sensor itself is your problem. Sometimes this code can appear when the Cam- and Crank Sensors don't Align properly, meaning that you have an issue with the Engine Timing, which, on those engines, is pretty easy to check, so I would start with that first. You can also try Resetting the Codes by Disconnecting the Battery for a few minutes to see how quickly they come back, if the issue is with a Flaky Wiring for example (which is a possibility with older, non-VVTi engines), the Code will take a lot longer to show up again compared to an issue that is present constantly.
Speaking of Flaky Wiring, the very first iteration of 1UZ engine had a pretty notorious issue with the Wiring for a number of components on the Front of the Engine going Behind the Timing Back Cover, in pretty tight corner with a Lot of heat being pumped into it, every one that I've seen was either already toast, or was getting there, below is a Video showing the Wiring in question. If memory serves, you pretty much have to take the entire Timing Mechanism apart, including the Metal Timing Cover in the back to access it though, so, as much as I hate to say this, it could be that replacing the Sensor first just as a random chance that it may help, is not the worst option in this specific case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-B8xaM59GA
Aside from the sensor that you listed being a Crankshaft Sensor, NTK is a more or less dependable company. Regardless, seeing how rarely those sensor develop any kinds of issues, I would say that Used OEM would be a far better option anyway, reliability and cost wise. Being that the next diagnostics step if what's described above fails is getting an Oscilloscope, as mentioned earlier, paying about $10-20 for a Used Sensor may be a good option for a change, it's getting to it is what's going to be a bit of an issue though.
That is indeed an EGR Malfunction, this code in particular is triggered when EGR Gas Temperature is below a predetermined level during EGR operation. In other words, it's either caked with gunk, or the Actuator is Failed or some combination of the two, preventing the EGR from functioning normally. With a car this old, especially if this procedure was never done before, it's quite important to periodically remove the EGR Valve for an Inspection and/or Cleaning Procedure, as you are quite literally feeding the Exhaust fumes back into the Intake, which can turn gnarly if the car was neglected.
Either way, start with taking the EGR Valve off, giving it a good clean, and seeing if it would move freely, usually if there aren't any glaring visual defects with the system, that procedure alone is enough to get rid of the majority of EGR Codes. Don't forget to get new Gaskets before putting everything back together, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
hi so I found out that the cam 2 cam wires gotten eaten by the timing belt I assume. it has good compression and good timing. But I do have a question the 2 cam wires had this silver wires wrapped around it. It looked kinda like a Brillow pad material my buddy said it might be a ground? The car runs great! Just on start up it takes a second To start up. Gas mileage is kinda bad though. Is there a part number I can get for the passenger side camshaft sensor? I asked the dealership but they never gave me a part number and said they are discontinued. The last guy who had this car kinda thrashed on it sadly.
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Hello,
Inductive Sensors used to track both Crank- and Camshaft Position are usually extremely reliable, unless someone chewed on it by accident, it's unlikely that the Sensor itself is your problem. Sometimes this code can appear when the Cam- and Crank Sensors don't Align properly, meaning that you have an issue with the Engine Timing, which, on those engines, is pretty easy to check, so I would start with that first. You can also try Resetting the Codes by Disconnecting the Battery for a few minutes to see how quickly they come back, if the issue is with a Flaky Wiring for example (which is a possibility with older, non-VVTi engines), the Code will take a lot longer to show up again compared to an issue that is present constantly.
Speaking of Flaky Wiring, the very first iteration of 1UZ engine had a pretty notorious issue with the Wiring for a number of components on the Front of the Engine going Behind the Timing Back Cover, in pretty tight corner with a Lot of heat being pumped into it, every one that I've seen was either already toast, or was getting there, below is a Video showing the Wiring in question. If memory serves, you pretty much have to take the entire Timing Mechanism apart, including the Metal Timing Cover in the back to access it though, so, as much as I hate to say this, it could be that replacing the Sensor first just as a random chance that it may help, is not the worst option in this specific case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-B8xaM59GA
Aside from the sensor that you listed being a Crankshaft Sensor, NTK is a more or less dependable company. Regardless, seeing how rarely those sensor develop any kinds of issues, I would say that Used OEM would be a far better option anyway, reliability and cost wise. Being that the next diagnostics step if what's described above fails is getting an Oscilloscope, as mentioned earlier, paying about $10-20 for a Used Sensor may be a good option for a change, it's getting to it is what's going to be a bit of an issue though.
That is indeed an EGR Malfunction, this code in particular is triggered when EGR Gas Temperature is below a predetermined level during EGR operation. In other words, it's either caked with gunk, or the Actuator is Failed or some combination of the two, preventing the EGR from functioning normally. With a car this old, especially if this procedure was never done before, it's quite important to periodically remove the EGR Valve for an Inspection and/or Cleaning Procedure, as you are quite literally feeding the Exhaust fumes back into the Intake, which can turn gnarly if the car was neglected.
Either way, start with taking the EGR Valve off, giving it a good clean, and seeing if it would move freely, usually if there aren't any glaring visual defects with the system, that procedure alone is enough to get rid of the majority of EGR Codes. Don't forget to get new Gaskets before putting everything back together, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Inductive Sensors used to track both Crank- and Camshaft Position are usually extremely reliable, unless someone chewed on it by accident, it's unlikely that the Sensor itself is your problem. Sometimes this code can appear when the Cam- and Crank Sensors don't Align properly, meaning that you have an issue with the Engine Timing, which, on those engines, is pretty easy to check, so I would start with that first. You can also try Resetting the Codes by Disconnecting the Battery for a few minutes to see how quickly they come back, if the issue is with a Flaky Wiring for example (which is a possibility with older, non-VVTi engines), the Code will take a lot longer to show up again compared to an issue that is present constantly.
Speaking of Flaky Wiring, the very first iteration of 1UZ engine had a pretty notorious issue with the Wiring for a number of components on the Front of the Engine going Behind the Timing Back Cover, in pretty tight corner with a Lot of heat being pumped into it, every one that I've seen was either already toast, or was getting there, below is a Video showing the Wiring in question. If memory serves, you pretty much have to take the entire Timing Mechanism apart, including the Metal Timing Cover in the back to access it though, so, as much as I hate to say this, it could be that replacing the Sensor first just as a random chance that it may help, is not the worst option in this specific case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-B8xaM59GA
Aside from the sensor that you listed being a Crankshaft Sensor, NTK is a more or less dependable company. Regardless, seeing how rarely those sensor develop any kinds of issues, I would say that Used OEM would be a far better option anyway, reliability and cost wise. Being that the next diagnostics step if what's described above fails is getting an Oscilloscope, as mentioned earlier, paying about $10-20 for a Used Sensor may be a good option for a change, it's getting to it is what's going to be a bit of an issue though.
That is indeed an EGR Malfunction, this code in particular is triggered when EGR Gas Temperature is below a predetermined level during EGR operation. In other words, it's either caked with gunk, or the Actuator is Failed or some combination of the two, preventing the EGR from functioning normally. With a car this old, especially if this procedure was never done before, it's quite important to periodically remove the EGR Valve for an Inspection and/or Cleaning Procedure, as you are quite literally feeding the Exhaust fumes back into the Intake, which can turn gnarly if the car was neglected.
Either way, start with taking the EGR Valve off, giving it a good clean, and seeing if it would move freely, usually if there aren't any glaring visual defects with the system, that procedure alone is enough to get rid of the majority of EGR Codes. Don't forget to get new Gaskets before putting everything back together, here is a Parts Catalogue for your car.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
https://www.lextreme.com/1uzfe-egr-delete-kit/
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,688
Likes: 1,101
From: Michigan
Even without any pictures, it does seem quite evident.
EGR System is there for a reason, and if the car is taken care of, it will never become an issue for you. Removing the EGR Valve will force the ECU to work outside of its Normal Operating Conditions, as it was never designed to run without said Valve, which will cause more or less similar issues to what you have right now anyway.
Hope this help and best of luck!
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,688
Likes: 1,101
From: Michigan
The part you shared is one of MANY Counterfeit listings that litter eBay and Amazon, here is a thread about it, chances of getting an Actually OEM part there on a whim, while not completely absent, are pretty close to it, hence why I always suggest to avoid those platforms as much as possible, and only purchase parts from Trusted Vendors.
Looking up both Part Numbers online, they are Discontinued at every place I've checked, goes to show that there really isn't too much demand for them. Right now, your best option in my opinion would be to source a Used OEM Sensor, again, they almost never fail, and chances of getting Counterfeit with a Used part are a lot slimmer, not to mention the cost benefits.
That said, if it's just the Wires that got damaged on the Sensor you have, I see no reason not to simply repair the Wiring, which will be just as durable, while even cheaper. Here is a thread that describes all tools and materials required.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Last edited by Arsenii; Aug 18, 2025 at 07:28 PM.
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