12V Battery
Racer
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 806
From: Ontario
I have the same battery, but I could not confirm this is an AGM battery. Typically AGM batteries would have AGM written on it, but no where on this we have AGM stated. I have been searching the part number and can only believe this is an Acid Lead Battery and not AGM.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 892
Likes: 404
From: Ontario
Just checked the work order and that's the same replacement battery I was given in March 2024. The factory battery in my car died 3X. I complained, they load tested it and replaced it. Never mentioned it was an AGM. The W/O doesn't specify either.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 627
From: Niagara Falls, Ontario
To JasDmw & LSFT: Yes I took a look at my work order too to confirm the part number info before I posted and it doesn't mention AGM either, nor does it state on label as well. I did make a notation on my work order though as I made a call into dealer to see what they had done about battery and spoke with the technician he " said " it was an AGM. That's my only confirmation I have. I will though call in to the parts dept and give them part number and ask if they can confirm it's an AGM, and post response. As there is a warranty on the battery if and when I'm out of warranty I will replace with an AGM. I've used them on my other cars and have had great results with them.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 970
Likes: 633
From: California
To JasDmw & LSFT: Yes I took a look at my work order too to confirm the part number info before I posted and it doesn't mention AGM either, nor does it state on label as well. I did make a notation on my work order though as I made a call into dealer to see what they had done about battery and spoke with the technician he " said " it was an AGM. That's my only confirmation I have. I will though call in to the parts dept and give them part number and ask if they can confirm it's an AGM, and post response. As there is a warranty on the battery if and when I'm out of warranty I will replace with an AGM. I've used them on my other cars and have had great results with them.
FWIW, a similar "Lexus" branded branded battery is now being given to complainers in the US as well, rather than run-of-the-mill (Interstate, etc) 12V battery that was given out earlier. I'm speaking primarily based on feedback in the RX450H+ forum.
The part I'm not sure about is whether these batteries (or the original Panasonic ones from Japan) actually have same correspondence between the voltage and state-of-charge that are found for run-of-the-mill 12 V batteries/tables. If they are anyway special, directly using those tables or SoC readouts from the bluetooth voltage monitors can be misleading/pessimistic - especially if these batteries are designed for high drain and low charging - implying that 12 V on their terminals may not necessarily indicate they have < 50 % charge, etc. Hence, I'm monitoring the how many Ampere-Hours are needing to pumped in by my external charger to make my Panasonic battery "full" during external charging - and in the summer, its turning out that the Panasonic battery is staying at least at 75 % charged by my RX450H+, with no unexpected deaths in summer. Winter will be the real test, however.
Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 92
Likes: 18
From: ON
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 855
LSFT - Yes I have a little plug in 12 Volt meter that I keep plugged in just under wireless charging tray too, I've observed similar readouts that have it up to 13.8 - 14.0 volts for first 1/2 hr or so and then it settles down to 12.8 - 13.0 volts providing not much to recharge 12 volt battery. As this reading is at the 12 volt adapter I'm not certain the DC to DC unit is just simply responding to immediate 'draw' on 12 volt system only and providing just what's needed to run anything asking for 12 volts. You see the 12 volt battery won't 'ask' to be charged it will simply continue to deplete over time. Somehow the system needs to push amperage back into the battery to make it recharge just like it does for traction battery. I feel this is the flaw in the design, it doesn't prioritize recharging the 12 volt it simply provides enough 12 volt to 'keep the lights on' only.
I make a habit of rotating the headlight switch off all the way then back to auto setting every time I get out of car so I force the headlights to shut off right away and not time out. I lock up the car with the door handle button and walk away and place the fob into a faraday pouch as well. So as quick as I can I 'shut down' the car right away and not have it 'looking' for my keyfob. When I wash car for example I unlock it and then put keyfob into faraday pouch as well, so I'm able to open and close doors if needed but again, don't have car awakening by fob thinking I'm gonna step in and drive it.
As I have a 350h I'm not certain putting the car into Ready will induce the car to recharge the 12 volt at that point. I will test this out soon though to see how my 350h handles Ready mode with the 12 volt battery.
I make a habit of rotating the headlight switch off all the way then back to auto setting every time I get out of car so I force the headlights to shut off right away and not time out. I lock up the car with the door handle button and walk away and place the fob into a faraday pouch as well. So as quick as I can I 'shut down' the car right away and not have it 'looking' for my keyfob. When I wash car for example I unlock it and then put keyfob into faraday pouch as well, so I'm able to open and close doors if needed but again, don't have car awakening by fob thinking I'm gonna step in and drive it.
As I have a 350h I'm not certain putting the car into Ready will induce the car to recharge the 12 volt at that point. I will test this out soon though to see how my 350h handles Ready mode with the 12 volt battery.
YMMV,
MidCow3
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 855
Yes, for 2022 Lexus NX other years similar.
if you every need to get access to an online Lexus manual, save this link : https://www.lexus.com/My-Lexus/resources/manual
YMMV,
MidCow3
if you every need to get access to an online Lexus manual, save this link : https://www.lexus.com/My-Lexus/resources/manual
YMMV,
MidCow3
Racer
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 806
From: Ontario
How did you know I already set that setting? You must be spying on my car settings. But unfortunately, if the headlights are on and the car auto powers off after 1 hour, even with that setting - it stays on... maybe you should try it and let me know if you car does that... oh but you have an 350h which might not be that safe to keep in the driveway and let it run for 1 hour.
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 855
How did you know I already set that setting? You must be spying on my car settings. But unfortunately, if the headlights are on and the car auto powers off after 1 hour, even with that setting - it stays on... maybe you should try it and let me know if you car does that... oh but you have an 350h which might not be that safe to keep in the driveway and let it run for 1 hour.
YMMV,
MidCow3
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 855
Lexus, can you please fix the problem/s
Yes, there is one member here who has noted having great results with an AGM on their NX450H+ - they are in Canada (BC?) as well, with very cold winters. If you talk to the dealer, you could ask them about the Ampere-Hour rating of this battery too.
FWIW, a similar "Lexus" branded branded battery is now being given to complainers in the US as well, rather than run-of-the-mill (Interstate, etc) 12V battery that was given out earlier. I'm speaking primarily based on feedback in the RX450H+ forum.
The part I'm not sure about is whether these batteries (or the original Panasonic ones from Japan) actually have same correspondence between the voltage and state-of-charge that are found for run-of-the-mill 12 V batteries/tables. If they are anyway special, directly using those tables or SoC readouts from the bluetooth voltage monitors can be misleading/pessimistic - especially if these batteries are designed for high drain and low charging - implying that 12 V on their terminals may not necessarily indicate they have < 50 % charge, etc. Hence, I'm monitoring the how many Ampere-Hours are needing to pumped in by my external charger to make my Panasonic battery "full" during external charging - and in the summer, its turning out that the Panasonic battery is staying at least at 75 % charged by my RX450H+, with no unexpected deaths in summer. Winter will be the real test, however.
FWIW, a similar "Lexus" branded branded battery is now being given to complainers in the US as well, rather than run-of-the-mill (Interstate, etc) 12V battery that was given out earlier. I'm speaking primarily based on feedback in the RX450H+ forum.
The part I'm not sure about is whether these batteries (or the original Panasonic ones from Japan) actually have same correspondence between the voltage and state-of-charge that are found for run-of-the-mill 12 V batteries/tables. If they are anyway special, directly using those tables or SoC readouts from the bluetooth voltage monitors can be misleading/pessimistic - especially if these batteries are designed for high drain and low charging - implying that 12 V on their terminals may not necessarily indicate they have < 50 % charge, etc. Hence, I'm monitoring the how many Ampere-Hours are needing to pumped in by my external charger to make my Panasonic battery "full" during external charging - and in the summer, its turning out that the Panasonic battery is staying at least at 75 % charged by my RX450H+, with no unexpected deaths in summer. Winter will be the real test, however.
Has Lexus responded to anyone about fixating the root of the problem about power management not recharging the 12 volt battery ?
Bigger capacity batteries, e.g. AGM, trickle chargers, and better Lexus owner power drain management are short-term band-aid fixes.
And monitoring the voltage isn't even a fix, it just shows if you are encountering a battery drain problem or not and to some degree the extend of the problem.. akin to a chick engine light.
Lexus, can you please fix the root problem/s ? PLEASE
YMMV,
MidCow3
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 627
From: Niagara Falls, Ontario
To JasDmw & LSFT: Yes I took a look at my work order too to confirm the part number info before I posted and it doesn't mention AGM either, nor does it state on label as well. I did make a notation on my work order though as I made a call into dealer to see what they had done about battery and spoke with the technician he " said " it was an AGM. That's my only confirmation I have. I will though call in to the parts dept and give them part number and ask if they can confirm it's an AGM, and post response. As there is a warranty on the battery if and when I'm out of warranty I will replace with an AGM. I've used them on my other cars and have had great results with them.
Pit Crew
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 144
Likes: 62
From: Florida
LSFT - Yes I have a little plug in 12 Volt meter that I keep plugged in just under wireless charging tray too, I've observed similar readouts that have it up to 13.8 - 14.0 volts for first 1/2 hr or so and then it settles down to 12.8 - 13.0 volts providing not much to recharge 12 volt battery. As this reading is at the 12 volt adapter I'm not certain the DC to DC unit is just simply responding to immediate 'draw' on 12 volt system only and providing just what's needed to run anything asking for 12 volts. You see the 12 volt battery won't 'ask' to be charged it will simply continue to deplete over time. Somehow the system needs to push amperage back into the battery to make it recharge just like it does for traction battery. I feel this is the flaw in the design, it doesn't prioritize recharging the 12 volt it simply provides enough 12 volt to 'keep the lights on' only.
Like decades old cars kept voltage from alternator fixed at 13.8-14.2 V. We are long past that, not just for hybrids.
Check Yuasa (OEM of 12V battery) material below, it's not even specific to hybrids. I think MF series is used in Toyota hybrids although Yuasa has VRLA series for hybrids specifically too.
https://www.gs-yuasa.com/en/products...adeinJapan.pdf
YUASA MF series are suitable for the charged control car which is
applicable to most of Japanese vehicle produced after 2005. This is
the system supplying the current from the battery instead of alternator
when the car accelerates. The alternator requires gasoline. Therefore,
the charged control car saves gasoline with the battery's electricity.
However, it requires quick charging specification. To meet it, YUASA
MF series improve 22% of quick charging performance in comparison
with our standard model.
If you install a normal battery in the charged control
car, the charging time requires much and the
efficiency of a mileage becomes low. YUASA MF
series have "Lithium and carbon technology" which
improve 22% regarding the acceptance of charging.
Of course, you can install YUASA MF in normal cars.
applicable to most of Japanese vehicle produced after 2005. This is
the system supplying the current from the battery instead of alternator
when the car accelerates. The alternator requires gasoline. Therefore,
the charged control car saves gasoline with the battery's electricity.
However, it requires quick charging specification. To meet it, YUASA
MF series improve 22% of quick charging performance in comparison
with our standard model.
If you install a normal battery in the charged control
car, the charging time requires much and the
efficiency of a mileage becomes low. YUASA MF
series have "Lithium and carbon technology" which
improve 22% regarding the acceptance of charging.
Of course, you can install YUASA MF in normal cars.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 627
From: Niagara Falls, Ontario
Did a short highway trip yesterday into the city about a 12 mile 20 km trip each way. Turned off my CarPlay and connected to my battery monitor for the trip. Voltage on monitor would show 14.18 - 14.2 while my plug in voltmeter was 14.5 steady. SOC was constant on the way in at 99% - I had had my trickle charger on the battery so this didn't surprise me. This is at daytime too so no headlights just DRL's. Arrived turned off car, ran in to pick up dinner 
and back out in less than 2 minutes tops. On return trip right from startup SOC was only 94% and voltage started at 14.2 and about half way home it dropped to 12.4 while my volt meter read 12.7 volts. All the way home SOC remained at 94% never increasing. Stopped in my drive at home. shut off car, waited a few minutes with nothing on. Then restarted so it was sitting in Ready mode. Same readings with no changes SOC 94% voltage 12.4 slowly dropping to 12.3 12.2, this is in about 2 minutes of sitting in ready mode. So keep in mind I have a 350h not a 450+. My DRL's were on, my dash is lit up, the car is basically on so until my traction battery calls for a recharge and my ICE starts up it looks like my 12 volt will continue to drain, not charge. I didn't keep on going as dinner was waiting. I'll try again with the Ready test while sitting in drive to see what happens during a longer interval.
As both my electrical devices are relatively 'cheap little toys' I would never put much weight into their readings being accurate 100%. These are not professional grade measuring tools we're talking about here. I'm a little disappointed that my SOC changed in only 2 minutes of my car being shut off, not sure why that would happen...(cheap toy maybe?) As for 12 volt readings slowly dropping while driving I would chalk that up to the car monitoring the SOC of the 12 volt battery and once it was at a true 100% it dropped back the voltage as it no longer needed to recharge the 12 volt battery up most likely.
Keep in mind the best way to maintain good 12 volt battery health is to let the battery drop down from full state a little than recharge back to almost 100% - just like you hear about how to maintain a good life cycle for a traction battery too.
My battery monitor cannot be that complex or modern age (except for the use of the App & bluetooth capability) as it offers a 'Cranking Test' - Hybrids don't crank to start. 'Charging Test' observing alternator readings from idle and high speed. This seems to be old school alternator tests. So I guess you get what you pay for here.
and back out in less than 2 minutes tops. On return trip right from startup SOC was only 94% and voltage started at 14.2 and about half way home it dropped to 12.4 while my volt meter read 12.7 volts. All the way home SOC remained at 94% never increasing. Stopped in my drive at home. shut off car, waited a few minutes with nothing on. Then restarted so it was sitting in Ready mode. Same readings with no changes SOC 94% voltage 12.4 slowly dropping to 12.3 12.2, this is in about 2 minutes of sitting in ready mode. So keep in mind I have a 350h not a 450+. My DRL's were on, my dash is lit up, the car is basically on so until my traction battery calls for a recharge and my ICE starts up it looks like my 12 volt will continue to drain, not charge. I didn't keep on going as dinner was waiting. I'll try again with the Ready test while sitting in drive to see what happens during a longer interval.As both my electrical devices are relatively 'cheap little toys' I would never put much weight into their readings being accurate 100%. These are not professional grade measuring tools we're talking about here. I'm a little disappointed that my SOC changed in only 2 minutes of my car being shut off, not sure why that would happen...(cheap toy maybe?) As for 12 volt readings slowly dropping while driving I would chalk that up to the car monitoring the SOC of the 12 volt battery and once it was at a true 100% it dropped back the voltage as it no longer needed to recharge the 12 volt battery up most likely.
Keep in mind the best way to maintain good 12 volt battery health is to let the battery drop down from full state a little than recharge back to almost 100% - just like you hear about how to maintain a good life cycle for a traction battery too.
My battery monitor cannot be that complex or modern age (except for the use of the App & bluetooth capability) as it offers a 'Cranking Test' - Hybrids don't crank to start. 'Charging Test' observing alternator readings from idle and high speed. This seems to be old school alternator tests. So I guess you get what you pay for here.
Last edited by TheCDN; Aug 26, 2024 at 10:33 AM.
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