1st Gen NX Rear Brake Pad Replacement Tips
Hi ClubLexus,
It has been awhile since I last posted. I recently worked on replacing rear brakes for 2017 NX200T. I ran into some issues with getting the service mode to work and wanted to provide some tips in case someone runs into similar issues. I believe this works for all 1st Gen NX and replied to a similar post earlier today which has more details. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/nx-...l#post11859282
I would first recommend trying the service mode procedure. I did not have success. I believe it may be that the rear pads were fully worn (only ~1-2 mm of pad remaining).
Service Mode Procedure:
- Jump 4 & 12 terminals in OBD port
- Vehicle on ignition,
- Pull EPB 3 times, push down 3 times and then push and hold within 8 seconds
If the rear calipers do not fully compress performing the service mode, I would then recommend removing the electronic motors and manually turning/compressing the piston using this procedure.
I eventually performed this procedure to fully compress the piston and install the rear pads. Once finished, if you get an "Electronic Parking Brake Malfunction" code, follow the procedures below.
Electronic Parking Brake Malfunction Reset Procedure:
- Jump 4 & 13 terminals in OBD port
- Turn the ignition ON
- Pull the park switch back (towards me) five times within five seconds
Hope this helps someone. I hate these electronic brake actuators. Took me 6 hours replacing pads when this could have been done in 30 mins. Car manufacturers should try to keep things simple like the good old days. These electronics cause more issues than convenience.
It has been awhile since I last posted. I recently worked on replacing rear brakes for 2017 NX200T. I ran into some issues with getting the service mode to work and wanted to provide some tips in case someone runs into similar issues. I believe this works for all 1st Gen NX and replied to a similar post earlier today which has more details. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/nx-...l#post11859282
I would first recommend trying the service mode procedure. I did not have success. I believe it may be that the rear pads were fully worn (only ~1-2 mm of pad remaining).
Service Mode Procedure:
- Jump 4 & 12 terminals in OBD port
- Vehicle on ignition,
- Pull EPB 3 times, push down 3 times and then push and hold within 8 seconds
If the rear calipers do not fully compress performing the service mode, I would then recommend removing the electronic motors and manually turning/compressing the piston using this procedure.
Electronic Parking Brake Malfunction Reset Procedure:
- Jump 4 & 13 terminals in OBD port
- Turn the ignition ON
- Pull the park switch back (towards me) five times within five seconds
Hope this helps someone. I hate these electronic brake actuators. Took me 6 hours replacing pads when this could have been done in 30 mins. Car manufacturers should try to keep things simple like the good old days. These electronics cause more issues than convenience.
Last edited by LS400_96; Feb 3, 2025 at 01:11 AM. Reason: Editing
I have had my rear brakes apart several times.
I don’t use service mode.
Make sure the park brake is not engaged.
jack the car up and remove the wheels.
Two Allen head bolts hold the electric park brake to the caliper, remove those and remove the mechanism from the caliper.
On the back side of the caliper, you’ll see another Allen head or torx head, turn that to release the pressure from the caliper. If installing new pads, you may need to apply pressure to the piston while you back off the fitting.
When you’re ready to reassemble, snug up the caliper / piston, and reinstall the electric mechanism.
There is a seal between the caliper and the mechanism, make sure that’s reinstalled properly.
I don’t use service mode.
Make sure the park brake is not engaged.
jack the car up and remove the wheels.
Two Allen head bolts hold the electric park brake to the caliper, remove those and remove the mechanism from the caliper.
On the back side of the caliper, you’ll see another Allen head or torx head, turn that to release the pressure from the caliper. If installing new pads, you may need to apply pressure to the piston while you back off the fitting.
When you’re ready to reassemble, snug up the caliper / piston, and reinstall the electric mechanism.
There is a seal between the caliper and the mechanism, make sure that’s reinstalled properly.
One of the things I LOVE about DIY... you LEARN. After doing perhaps 20 brake jobs in my lifetime, I still continue to acquire knowledge.
Here are some tips for you from my recent rear brake job on my 2020 NX. Some I already knew, some I just learned:
1. Replace the caliper pin boots. They are not expensive and a good preventive measure. Rip em off and put new ones on.
2. Use the right lubricant on the caliper pins. It has to be a lubricant that will not harm rubber. Different spec than the lubricant for the pad clips and other areas.
3. Take a bunch of digital pictures BEFORE disassembly. You can use them as a reference if you ever have a question on how something gets put back. Yes, you can use the other side as a reference, but in my case I only took the wheel off of the one side before attacking the second side. So I had to go back to my computer to confirm a couple of things. If I had a few pictures, I could've answered those questions within 30 seconds!
4. Use OEM components (my opinion).
5. Remember to respect the INNER/OUTER. The pads are designed differently.
6. If you expect you'll use CRC Brakleen to clean some of the components, buy one extra can in case you run out (or in case the first can encounters a defect, as mine did). I didn't have a second vehicle to go to the store for another can, so instead I used carb cleaner (to help clean the shims).
7. Don't skimp - consider buying new (OEM) hardware - shims, clips. I didn't do this and ended up spending a lot of time cleaning the shims and clips. They ended up spic 'n span, but it was far too much work. I would've been willing to spend the money to avoid spending the time.
8. Use quality brake fluid. I used Toyota/Lexus fluid. I'll also use Toyota/Lexus fluid for transaxle. For motor oil, rear axle, and transfer case I use Mobil-1 synthetic.
FYI...I got 71k out of my front pads, and 102k out of my rear (both original from new vehicle purchase). My fronts still had probably another 10k+ to go. I caught my rears just in time. I probably only had another 2-4k on those. Of course, the miles you get will vary depending on how you drive
Here are some tips for you from my recent rear brake job on my 2020 NX. Some I already knew, some I just learned:
1. Replace the caliper pin boots. They are not expensive and a good preventive measure. Rip em off and put new ones on.
2. Use the right lubricant on the caliper pins. It has to be a lubricant that will not harm rubber. Different spec than the lubricant for the pad clips and other areas.
3. Take a bunch of digital pictures BEFORE disassembly. You can use them as a reference if you ever have a question on how something gets put back. Yes, you can use the other side as a reference, but in my case I only took the wheel off of the one side before attacking the second side. So I had to go back to my computer to confirm a couple of things. If I had a few pictures, I could've answered those questions within 30 seconds!
4. Use OEM components (my opinion).
5. Remember to respect the INNER/OUTER. The pads are designed differently.
6. If you expect you'll use CRC Brakleen to clean some of the components, buy one extra can in case you run out (or in case the first can encounters a defect, as mine did). I didn't have a second vehicle to go to the store for another can, so instead I used carb cleaner (to help clean the shims).
7. Don't skimp - consider buying new (OEM) hardware - shims, clips. I didn't do this and ended up spending a lot of time cleaning the shims and clips. They ended up spic 'n span, but it was far too much work. I would've been willing to spend the money to avoid spending the time.
8. Use quality brake fluid. I used Toyota/Lexus fluid. I'll also use Toyota/Lexus fluid for transaxle. For motor oil, rear axle, and transfer case I use Mobil-1 synthetic.
FYI...I got 71k out of my front pads, and 102k out of my rear (both original from new vehicle purchase). My fronts still had probably another 10k+ to go. I caught my rears just in time. I probably only had another 2-4k on those. Of course, the miles you get will vary depending on how you drive
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