I think the installation wiring diagram supplied with the module(s) is misleading (or not 100% accurate), and some experiments should be conducted before final wiring is done. They show a 2-wire (SPST) operating switch, but the connecting wire labels imply a 3-wire (SPDT) switch.
If the Gray wire is connected to +12V, does the mirror fold and the motor stop when fully folded?
If the White wire is connected to +12V, does the mirror unfold and the motor stop when fully unfolded?

If your vehicle was already equipped with power folding mirrors and a fold-auto-unfold operating switch, what is the motivation to install these modules?

The good news is if your vehicle has the memory mirrors, then each front door has a mirror control module with an ignition wire ("IG") you can use as a substitute for ACC.
When you press the start/power button while NOT pressing the brake pedal, one press turns on ACC, and 2 presses turns on both IG and ACC. When pressing the start button with brake pedal depressed, IG turns on immediately, but ACC is delayed until the engine starts.

 

Thanks for your reply.
No, my vehicle was not equipped with power folding mirrors, like all north american, I did it, here is the thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/nx-...s-nx-200t.html
So, this is why I need those modules...

 

Would you know which wire in the module has the IG? I guess I can live with mirrors folding when the car starts. If not, I will wire one myself from dash later...

 

I was not aware of your factory mirror modification post. Quite an impressive and daring accomplishment. Your regular occupation must be neurosurgery . Evidently the existing mirror control modules were not able to operate the modified mirrors, perhaps because software is also required, so the modules from Amazon are intended to provide (hopefully) a viable alternative.

Before planning a wiring scheme, we need to know how the modules respond to various inputs, and then compare that to how you prefer them to function. In the "auto" position, my OEM mirrors fold when the car is turned off and unfold when it is turned on. Not what you want if parked in a narrow garage. In the unfold position, they unfold if folded, and remain that way until the switch is moved to another position. In the fold position, they fold if unfolded, and remain folded until the switch is moved to another position..

 

Yes, the job had to be done because the previous car had power mirrors. Neurosurgeon? Yeah, my first two patients were my car's mirrors and my scalpel the dremel machine... lol.
The switch operates as a dumb switch really. I guess I purchased it for aestethics...

The fold and auto don't do nothing. The only one working is unfold. When the switch is on auto or fold, the mirrors are unfolded. If the unfold is pressed, mirrors fold and stay folded until the switch is returned to auto or fold position, at which time they unfold. All this happens only when ACC is on.
I guess the folding/unfolding when car is locked/unlocked is what I'd like to have...
Question: Your resources are impressive with nice colored diagrams for quite a lot of things. Are you by any chance a Lexus electrician?

 

The modules you purchased appear to have provisions for control via the lock/unlock motor signals. You could try wiring one side according to the application circuit in the Amazon listing (copied below), and then see what happens. I can show you where to find the appropriate wires within the front doors. Hopefully, the module inhibits control by lock motor when the car is On. Otherwise, the mirror would fold in when the body computer automatically locks all doors when the car starts moving. If the inhibit function is not already implemented within the module, it would not be hard to add with a small relay.

No, not an electrician, Lexus or otherwise . I am a contract microchip designer and need to regularly exchange technical documents with customers located all over the world. Written words, when translated, often result in misunderstandings or confusion, so we depend on drawings to share information with each other.

 

I am sorry for misleading you, really apologize. Ever since my first post I returned the Amazon ones and purchased the ones I posted the wiring diagram for... So, the ones I have now are not the ones from Amazon (where you picked the diagram from).
These ones are also controlled by lock/unlock signal, see connectors green & blue...

 

Well, I had a 50-50 chance of selecting the correct diagram.
No big deal. Here is the proper one as I interpret it. They used the terms On, Off, Open, Close instead of Fold, Unfold; so I may have some labels reversed.

 

Thanks for the reply.

But these two signals from door lock/unlock actuators are the easiest ones. I am havin issues with the grey&white and orange&brown. How do I connect those? Right now, there are the two wires from the mirror motor going into the connector that goes into the door controller. I think they are on pins 4 and 11. Is these wires I need to cut and connect the grey&white to the cut ends going to the module and the orange&brown to the cut ends going to the mirror motor? It's a little confusing with having the controller module in between mirror and arm switch....

 

Here is my interpretation of the application circuit shown in post #13 . . . . . .

This circuit assumes you already have a manual switch to operate the fold / unfold motor. This is a 4-wire 3-position momentary switch, usually "rocker" style. The rocker always returns to the center (off) position when released.
The 4 wires are: fused 12V, Ground, M1, M2, where M1 and M2 are the fold / unfold motor.
In the rest (center) position of the rocker, M1 and M2 are both connected to Ground.
Moving the rocker in one direction connects M1 to +12V (M2 remains connected to Ground).
Moving the rocker in the other direction connects M2 to +12V (M1 remains connected to Ground).
This switch design was used by virtually every car company, for more than 50 years, to operate power windows and locks. Because they were a styling element, every car models' switch had a unique appearance, but electrically they were all identical.

So, if someone already had a switch to fold or unfold the mirrors, why would they want to purchase these modules? Two reasons:
(1) You have to hold the switch in one of the "run" position until the mirrors are completely folded or unfolded. The time required varies with outdoor temperature and battery voltage.
(2) Continuing to hold the switch in a "run" position after the mirror has completely folded / unfolded stresses the mechanism and overheats the motor. both reduce the operating life of those components.

The module should permit you to just briefly tap the switch, then the internal electronics take over. They keep the motor powered until they sense end of travel, then turn the power off. Advantages: more convenient to operate, plus longer mechanism and motor life.

The application schematic recommends to disconnect the described existing switch M1 and M2 terminals from the motor, and connect them to the module gray and white wires instead. The motor then connects to the module outputs (orange and brown).

For the switch you purchased, the center terminal connects to either fused Battery, ACC, or IG, depending on if you prefer it to be operable with the car off, or not. The outer terminals connect to module gray and white.
There is a potential issue with this solution. Because he Lexus switch is not a "momentary" type, +12V will remain applied to either the module gray or white input continuously when 12V is available and the switch is in other than the center position. The module may be designed to tolerate this condition, or there may be a consequential problem. No way to know except to experiment. If problems do arise, there are potential remedies that can be tried.

Connecting the lock actuator inputs (green and blue) allow the mirror to fold when the car is locked and unfold when the car is unlocked (in addition to or in place of operation via a switch).

 

Yes. Thanks for the reply.
I guess there is no way of knowing other than doing some experiments. I just hope I will not burn any of the modules while doing that.
I will see if I have time to do the testing today and then I'll come back with some results.
Thanks for all your efforts, really appreciated.

 

I got it working this morning.

The in door controller module has to go completely out of the picture and an ACC wire has to be present.
In the image below, the yellow and red are the wires coming from the mirror (motor/actuator) and going into the controller module. I cut those and I connected the orange and brown wires from the aftermarket module.



Then, the two different green terminals (no.8 and 11), also cut and connected the white and grey from the aftermarket module.





One other feature showed up, if the door is not opened in a certain time frame, the car will lock by itself. I dunno if this is from the car or the aftermarket module, but I'll take it, it's useful.

 

Due to the fact that I am lazy (and don't want to have to pass the ACC wire through the rubber in between car and door), does someone have the diagram for the mirror camera wires? I was thinking to use one of those wires that are already passed through in the door from dash somewhere...

 

I found the wire!!


The red wire on this connector inside the car, bottom left (at foot level) matches the red on this video camera connector.
So, I cut it both ends and brought my ACC into the door throught that wire.

 

Now, how the heck am I going to connect for the other mirror???
There is no fold/unfold button on the right door. I guess I will have to wire all the way from the main window switch on the driver door...